Making 225 promax reliable

[Bunger]

Got my 225 promax back in October strapped to my 20.8 Sebring. Ran good the two times I drove it. Did the basic stuff New water pump gear oil plugs New poppet due to erratic water pressure New voltage regulators filters etc. original owner had a clogged injector and listed a cylinder had it rebuilt by Bruce dean. New sleeve and piston for that cylinder Along with new rings and bearings throughout. Also had injectors cleaned and all that. That was a little over 2 years ago and I got it with 3 hours on the rebuild. But I haven’t ran it since January. Motor is bone stock including oil injection. Can you guys recommend replacing/ having serviced. I run good fuel half av half 91 a day have put quicksilver quickleen (green bottle) everytime I put fuel in it. Some
peope say ditch the oil injection but Bruce dean and Ron hill both say keep it as long as I don’t turn over the recommend rpms. What about stock fuel lines on the motor? Fuel lines from tanks to motor are new. I was considering picking up a used Brucato ecu. Should I have injectors serviced again? Or just quit worrying and drive the f*ckin thing haha.

[rkmirage]

I would remove the oil injection.

[Bunger]

Ya I’m planning on doing that after I go out to the river in June for a week in June and bring it home.
Also what about the idle stabilizer box? Should I try to check the timing or does that stay set unless you start messing with stuff? Replace switch boxes? Trying to get this 100% dialed

[Bunger]

Can anyone recommend a good oil block off kit/ procedure as what to remove and all that? I’ve read some co troversary as the leaving the oil pump drive gear in vs removing it?

[nitro_rat]

You should check and set timing if you ditch the black box. I would can it along with the oil pump!

[rkmirage]

I would just remove the oil inj. The PM is a very reliable motor in stock form.

[Bunger]

What’s the idea behind removing the idle stableizer? What’s the risk of keeping it?

[nitro_rat]

https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...dle-Stabilizer

[Bunger]

Ok so who makes the best block off kit? And they all look like they have a long part that goes into the motor but I keep hearing about keeping the gear in place to take up volume? Can anyone elaborate? Also I just got a device manual on eBay but is setting the timing the same process after removing the idle stabilizer? Just don’t want to pop this thing so I’m trying to be cautious.

[FORBESAUTO]

Get the Mercury one 43453. Need the long part that goes into the motor. It is to hold a bushing in place and prevent it from falling out once you remove the pump and driven gear/ shaft. The drive gear that is mounted onto crankshaft is what you want to leave to take up crankcase space so you don’t increase crankcase volume on that cylinder (would have to disassemble engine to remove anyway).

[whipper]

Nothing wrong with being cautious but you are being overly cautious. Block off is just that a little plastic or aluminum piece that goes over were your oil pump was buy your Pulse pump held in buy 2 screws done. All the oil lines you just deep 6 them along with the tank on the engine ect... There is a write up on how to on hear some were with pictures. Ive been premixing 40/1 for 13 years and no problems yet. i run tony Brucatos acu also and love it!! Im running 33cc heads from jay smith and also run the quike clean every tank along with Aces. Change plugs every month or so to get a good burn always and run 91 min 92 and 93 when i can get it. With the acu I have mine set to 7500 rpm over the stock 6750 and regularly run 7000 to 7200 rpm. i have the ecu set with extra fuel on the main to feed the heads and run cool and have lots of power no change for 1000+ hours. In that time last year i tor it down to change a gasket that had a small pinner fuel leak and other than that one stator in that time. I think i might have also changed the switch box thats it. Just dont run old gas thats been sitting over a month or at least top it off with high test. Always run Prem Pluss but have switched to Amzoil last year. Great reliable motors gas and oil and go have fun.

[nitro_rat]

There is a write up on how to on here some were with pictures.

Start with post #25:

https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...ge2&highlight=

[Bunger]

Right on thanks for the help. I’m pretty sold on this acu deal. Is it pretty much plug and play? Depending on how you have tony map it of course right?

[nitro_rat]

Should be plug and play.

[whipper]

When Tony is setting to your motor its plug and play like nitro said unless you are boating at say 1000 or 2000 feet above sea level then he can tweek that for you based on the thinner air ect... Also when or if you get tighter heads you can easily adjust that your self. Its basically just one screw for that giving you more fuel because tighter heads need to feed more to take advantage of the higher compression. I like the 7500 rpm limiter it allows you to run smaller props and still reach the top end the slower out of the hole higher pitch props did. As long as your mixing premix 40-1 you will have no problems turning that motor to 7200 or 7300 rpm on occasion. i know guy that turn them in stock form to 8000 and live. But 7200 is no big deal with premix. You get to drop basically 2 pitches and still run decent top end.