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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by HStream1 View Post
    Dave i would hope that anyone trying to use a conventional puller vs the correct Tool on a Threaded area would have enough sense to back the Nut off and leave it flush with the top of the threads to prevent such a thing from happening
    I’m not sure I’m willing to give anyone trying to use a conventional puller vs the correct tool that much credit, especially once torches and hammers get involved...

    Ebay is a good source for service manuals and specialty tools. The manual lists the merc part number for the tool for each task that requires one and you can usually find the tool itself on ebay too. Any V6 manual will give the basic mechanical info as they are all very similar mechanically!

    If you can’t find (or afford/justify cost for one time use) a post here will probably find a near by member that can help.
    Josh Peterson

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by HStream1 View Post
    Dave i would hope that anyone trying to use a conventional puller vs the correct Tool on a Threaded area would have enough sense to back the Nut off and leave it flush with the top of the threads to prevent such a thing from happening
    Myself no substitute for the correct tool. OMG and others backing the nut to the top of the threads is a must.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

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  5. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Strong View Post
    no substitute for the correct tool
    The tool is cheap compared to a new flywheel. Not to mention if you pull metal on the crank taper...
    Josh Peterson

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  7. #19
    Join Date
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    Had one in here a few years back and I seen the crank was not showing any thread past the nylock. Told him his flywheel was about to come off but he assured me it was tight. They had already destroyed the end of the crank and had cut off the ruined part leaving the crank too short for it to engage. I refused to work on it till he could afford to change the crank. Don't think most have any idea how dangerous that is.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

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  9. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock View Post
    Had one in here a few years back and I seen the crank was not showing any thread past the nylock. Told him his flywheel was about to come off but he assured me it was tight. They had already destroyed the end of the crank and had cut off the ruined part leaving the crank too short for it to engage. I refused to work on it till he could afford to change the crank. Don't think most have any idea how dangerous that is.

    Rock
    A loose flywheel buzzing arond at a couple thousand rpm’s? Yep, not a good situation!
    Josh Peterson

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  11. #21
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    Backing the nut off will save the crank, (SOMETIMES), but so much for the flywheel and magnets, if it's on tight it will ruin it....if it's on loose it may already have ruined the splines.....BOTH crank and FW!!!
    WillySteve Hendricks



    20XDC Bullet/Modified Merc 260
    295TF Charger/ProMax 225x-Sold!
    '83-20' Contender Pickle Fork/Merc 2.4 ModVP BridgePort EFI-Sold!
    '85-18' Stratus STV/Merc Hi-Po 2.4 EFI-Sold!
    Freedom 240 DLX Fisher Toon/Merc 115

    10' Cougar Cub/Merc 25HP On The Bottle!
    18" Home Made Tunnel/OS .021XM Outboard on 50% Nitro and Expansion Chamber

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  13. #22
    Join Date
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    Does the Acronym, RTFM ring a bell? I sure hope he hasn't done a BUNCH of damage to $ome very expen$ive part$.
    I carry a gun because a cop won't fit in my pocket.

    1987 Glasstream 15V
    1986 Mariner "Tower of Power" 115

  14. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glasstream15 View Post
    Does the Acronym, RTFM ring a bell? I sure hope he hasn't done a BUNCH of damage to $ome very expen$ive part$.
    Read The F****** Manual

    Saves so many headaches. Also ask questions BEFORE taking a hammer to parts...
    Josh Peterson

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  16. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Strong View Post
    The proper puller has a piece to protect the end of the crank as well, with out it could have damaged, flared, or cracked the end of the crank.

    Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by HStream1
    It fits on a taper people!!!!!!! It doesnt need penetrating Fluid. By applying heat as you have posted youve most likely not only damaged the magnets but the Stator and possibly Trigger as well. And with that Puller you've tried to use as mentioned you could have Warped/bent the Flywheel. There's no substitute for the proper Flywheel removal tool. With the right tool it will come right off.


    The manual wasn't written to be ignored...............................................
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  17. #25
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    Never had a Merc flywheel that didn't pop right off with the proper tool.

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  19. #26
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    Mine looks like it's been in a war. Bolt's bent and there is a small chunk out of the side of the crank protector. It's been used and it still works well.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

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  21. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock View Post
    Mine looks like it's been in a war. Bolt's bent and there is a small chunk out of the side of the crank protector. It's been used and it still works well.

    Rock
    The latest version of Mercs puller is pretty slick.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  22. #28
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    Ok, I guess I deserve the roast. How can you do the job right if you dont have the right tool for the job. Thanks Nitro Rat for the link, I'll be ordering that one.

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  24. #29
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    James i see youre in Nags Head NC. I live in Barco only about 30 miles from you. Give me a call 757-544-1787 and Ill help you out anyway I can.

    Also looking at the picture why is there a Big 3 written on the #6 Cylinder?

    Quote Originally Posted by James Thompson View Post
    Ok, I guess I deserve the roast. How can you do the job right if you dont have the right tool for the job. Thanks Nitro Rat for the link, I'll be ordering that one.
    Bud Conner "Heathen" "Defending Our Constitution"

    FOR ALL ENGINE APPLICATIONS
    DRY Film Lubricant for Piston Skirts & Cranks + Thermal Barrier Ceramic Coatings for Piston Tops, Combustion Chambers, Valves etc !!



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  26. #30
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    Production run mark.

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