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  1. #1
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    Stuck flywheel...is there a tool?

    I really hope there is a tool or technique that can get this thing off. I'm at my wits end again. Had a prop before this that would not budge no matter what I threw at it. The puller is as tight as I dare with a 1/2" impact and its hanging off the floor an "1. Used a propane torch for 5 min and a couple bangs with a 1# maul, nothing.Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
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    Patience. Mine came off after an overnight under tension. Heat and cold cycles should help, freeze-off on the crank and heat on the flywheel. Give the puller a little more tension every once in a while and a few good raps with the hammer. Good luck.

  3. #3
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    Best penetrant I’ve found is brake fluid.
    1/2 teaspoon with a bit of heat may do the trick.
    The proper puller will also help if it’s really stuck.
    I’ve had flywheels welded to the crank that I’ve been able to break free with the proper puller and a big breaker bar.

  4. #4
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    1st thing is to get it back on the floor! Alum. don't like to be dropped....even an inch!!!
    WillySteve Hendricks



    20XDC Bullet/Modified Merc 260
    295TF Charger/ProMax 225x-Sold!
    '83-20' Contender Pickle Fork/Merc 2.4 ModVP BridgePort EFI-Sold!
    '85-18' Stratus STV/Merc Hi-Po 2.4 EFI-Sold!
    Freedom 240 DLX Fisher Toon/Merc 115

    10' Cougar Cub/Merc 25HP On The Bottle!
    18" Home Made Tunnel/OS .021XM Outboard on 50% Nitro and Expansion Chamber

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  6. #5
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    that's not the right puller.
    merc puller, penetrating oil, and a good impact will get if off.

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  8. #6
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    The correct puller is mandatory. Spray it down well over several days with PB blaster.
    Speed cost money. How fast you wanna go?
    I have done so much with so little for so long, I can now do the impossible with nothing!

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  10. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Thompson View Post
    I really hope there is a tool or technique that can get this thing off. I'm at my wits end again. Had a prop before this that would not budge no matter what I threw at it. The puller is as tight as I dare with a 1/2" impact and its hanging off the floor an "1. Used a propane torch for 5 min and a couple bangs with a 1# maul, nothing.Click image for larger version. 

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    https://www.amazon.com/Mercury-Marin...70_&dpSrc=srch
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



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  12. #8
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    I have this one:

    https://m.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-Marin...cAAOSwMmBVnpue

    It comes with a powerhead lifting eye also. You can also find a more expensive one with a torrington bearing (about $50) that may be useful if yours is really stuck!
    Josh Peterson

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  14. #9
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    50/50 acetone and tranny fluid will penetrate probably better than anything. Warm that flywheel up.

  15. #10
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    BTW, You may have a warped flywheel if you've put enough pressure on the puller you're using!
    WillySteve Hendricks



    20XDC Bullet/Modified Merc 260
    295TF Charger/ProMax 225x-Sold!
    '83-20' Contender Pickle Fork/Merc 2.4 ModVP BridgePort EFI-Sold!
    '85-18' Stratus STV/Merc Hi-Po 2.4 EFI-Sold!
    Freedom 240 DLX Fisher Toon/Merc 115

    10' Cougar Cub/Merc 25HP On The Bottle!
    18" Home Made Tunnel/OS .021XM Outboard on 50% Nitro and Expansion Chamber

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  17. #11
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    It fits on a taper people!!!!!!! It doesnt need penetrating Fluid. By applying heat as you have posted youve most likely not only damaged the magnets but the Stator and possibly Trigger as well. And with that Puller you've tried to use as mentioned you could have Warped/bent the Flywheel. There's no substitute for the proper Flywheel removal tool. With the right tool it will come right off.
    Bud Conner "Heathen" "Defending Our Constitution"

    FOR ALL ENGINE APPLICATIONS
    DRY Film Lubricant for Piston Skirts & Cranks + Thermal Barrier Ceramic Coatings for Piston Tops, Combustion Chambers, Valves etc !!



  18. #12
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    For 25 bucks you can get the correct puller.

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  20. #13
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    The proper puller has a piece to protect the end of the crank as well, with out it could have damaged, flared, or cracked the end of the crank.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

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  22. #14
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    I use the lifting eye...and I ground the tip of the screw relatively flat. Set a ball bearing (3/8" or so...available at any hardware store or just hack open an old upper crank bearing or similar) in the divot on top of the crank. There are a lot of frictional losses in a forcing screw type puller...this will eliminate most of them. With this method, I've been able to hold the puller hub with a crescent wrench and use a 12" long screw driver though the eye and they always pop loose with minimal effort....before, I had 3' cheater pipes and had difficulty...sometimes failing all together.

  23. #15
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    Dave i would hope that anyone trying to use a conventional puller vs the correct Tool on a Threaded area would have enough sense to back the Nut off and leave it flush with the top of the threads to prevent such a thing from happening


    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Strong View Post
    The proper puller has a piece to protect the end of the crank as well, with out it could have damaged, flared, or cracked the end of the crank.

    Dave
    Bud Conner "Heathen" "Defending Our Constitution"

    FOR ALL ENGINE APPLICATIONS
    DRY Film Lubricant for Piston Skirts & Cranks + Thermal Barrier Ceramic Coatings for Piston Tops, Combustion Chambers, Valves etc !!



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