Mercury Skirt Problem

[mn808gade]

don't waist time with spray,reread post #15 twenty five times,then go get tools-th

[Glastron1987]

Just curious, if this engine does end up needing to be pulled apart and requires some major work, can it be bored to a 2.5... and if so will the WMH-31 carbs it has work OK. What kind of power would that produce?

[W2F a V-King]

It will need pulling apart.

A 2.4 will need to stay a 2.4.

The old XR4 motors are steel sleeved, so it can be over size bored in the cylinder/s that need work, or re-sleeved if necessary.
You need to pull it apart and perform an autopsy to see what happened and why.

Also the old XR4 was a vertical reed motor, and to get more power out of it, swapping the front half of the block to horizontal reed setup would be necessary.

If your looking to make more power, while it's apart, there are a host of things that can be done.

Nothing wrong at all with the 2.4 imo...

[Glastron1987]

Actually my XR4 is running fine. That's clear now how this could not be bored to 2.5, but actaully the motor in question is a different engine I picked up which is a slightly newer (~1994) 2.0 liter 150. I'm pretty sure it has horizontal reeds. Thought I read that at some point even the 2.0 when to a fat block. So assuming some major engine work is needed, the thought is why not bore it to 2.5. Maybe that would give me better low end torque, even if the rpms were limited by the carbs.

[W2F a V-King]

Misread what you were doing.

I'm not sure if the 2.0 fat block could be bored to a 2.5 without sleeve removal and boring the block to accept new 2.5 sleeves. The new sleeves could have porting for a 200. If by chance there is enough meat in the sleeves to over size bore a 2.0 to a 2.5. you would still have porting of the 150.

Also unsure of the behind the sleeve ports that are cast into the 2.0 fat block.

Either way it's the longer more $ way to get more ponies imo. If you want a 200/225, then look for a 96 up 200 powerhead, again jmo.

The guy to ask these questions to is James Perry. He does a lot of this kind of machine work. wrechin2 is his user name here on S&F. PM him and see what his thoughts are.

[Glastron1987]

Good advice, thanks.

[Glastron1987]

Probably won’t be able to open up this 2.0 liter (150) until it warms up a bit around here to see the extent of the damage, but was wondering if I did end up either boring or replacing the back of the block to bring me up to a 2.4 or 2.5 does that automatically mean the WMH-31 carbs would no longer be any good?

[outboards4life]

You would be money ahead just finding a 2.5 powerhead. tear down the current motor and save any good components you can. ignition, starter, carbs, intake. etc.

[Glastron1987]

Makes sense. Still wondering how the WMH-31 carbs would work on a 2.5 powerhead.

[outboards4life]

Makes sense. Still wondering how the WMH-31 carbs would work on a 2.5 powerhead.

You would have to re jet them for sure. I think they have a smaller bore than a standard 2.5 carb would as well. I've got a few sets in the garage I would have to measure them to be sure.

[Glastron1987]

WMH (30-34) carbs for the 135-200hp in that same serial# range all start with the same (i.e. 818650xxx) number, if that means anything.

[racervboat]

thought you said it was an efi motor?

[Glastron1987]

The post started out refering to an EFI, but I ended up picking up a carbed 2.0 150 that I took a chance on as I thought it was a good price.

[spybot]

thought you said it was an efi motor?

You have a pm

[Bruce2]

Not to high jack thread, just a question...wasn't the 1994 1995 2.0 135 and 150 motors 2.5 blocks with 2.0 bore sleeves in them..thats the way i understood it, which could be wrong...