1979 Hydrostream Viking restore thread

[XstreamVking]

I run a 28 labbed merc lightning ET on mine for just top end runs. (6500+) It really works same as a drag from what I have heard. Very fast prop. It lifts the whole boat, planes well, and I find after a WOT run the trim angle is slightly negative. No hop from it. It is my fastest prop.

[roadkill636]

Gassed up and filled the cooler yesterday got a 180# co worker to ride along in the Stream with the 28 cleaver. It still porposed very bad all the way from 10 mph to 60 mph. Then once up on pad it smoothed out. Even with the motor trimmed all down. Trimmming up only made it worse. The cleaver didnt have as good a hole shot as the 28 chopper but i was expecting that. Once up on pad it did seem a bit more stable but not sure if thats because of the prop or having someone else in the boat to help ballance it out.

Broke another trim solonoid. ... this time its the down side... this is the 3rd solonoid in 2 outtings. What the heck is going on here. I orders a couple of 100 amp.continuous duty solonoids

[XstreamVking]

Your may have to add some wedges on the trailing edges of the bottom to get rid of the hop. The hull may have sagged while you were rebuilding it. Most of the factory boats had some hook built in to make them more "driver friendly". Also you could try some transom wedges to get more tuck under.

[STELLIX]

My Vector was almost uncontrollable until I lowered my jackplate a little. I'm running a SRX prop and have no porpoising at all. Mine boat has a flat pad though.

[dwilfong]

My Vector was almost uncontrollable until I lowered my jackplate a little. I'm running a SRX prop and have no porpoising at all. Mine boat has a flat pad though.

Where did you end up with the prop shaft height to the pad?

[roadkill636]

The hull may have sagged while you were rebuilding it. you could try some transom wedges to get more tuck under.[/QUOTE]


I tested the bottom of the pad and hull after all the core and floor was done . Rite before paint and it was FLAT.. less than 1/32" over 5'.

I do have a set of transom wedges laying around somewhere.

[STELLIX]

Where did you end up with the prop shaft height to the pad?

About a 1/2" below the pad right now

[dwilfong]

About a 1/2" below the pad right now

Thanks for the info. I need to start some where on my new boat setup.
Have the jack mounted so I can go from 1 1/2" below the pad and 1 1/2" above the pad. The pivot point is 6" set back with the wedge in the jack and a added wedge.
Think I will start as deep as I can for the break in.

[roadkill636]

Got the hot foot and hood ornament on last nite

[roadkill636]

Heres a 1st ever pic of me up on the pad. This is on the Mississippi river around Perque creek taken by another member her .

Thumbs up baby

[roadkill636]

Been driving the Stream around almost every week and its running real good. Up to 72 mph but still playing with setup. I cant get rid of the stupid porpoising tho.. it starts at 10 mph all the way up to getting on the pad. Its so bad that i get very mad and upset with the bow literally bounci g 24" up and down. No exaggeration! . Tried a 28 chopper even with pad to +1 then a 28 cleaver from -3 to +1.5 and still porpoising. All weight is in the rear.

Prop sugestions?

[XstreamVking]

Your gonna have to add some hook to the hull. It must have some rocker in it. Start at the outside strakes and work in to the keel. I would start with 3/16 on the outside and a 1/8 close to the keel and 1/16 on the keel. You need to be able to run with the motor level. jm2cts

[W2F a V-King]

Yes, I agree it's either a hull issue or maybe your Center of Gravity is to far back.

With everything in the rear, maybe try moving some things forward if possible. Even for test purposes add some weight up front as far as you can get it.

You added some weight with your rear deck modifications and that stock cowl is a bit heavier than a clam shell or Pro max type cowl.

If a weight shift helps, maybe re rig with that in mind...battery up front, move the fuel tank forward if you can... etc...

Just a couple things to try before you de-rig your boat and flip it to rework the hull. That's a ton of work.

Guessing you checked the bottom of the hull for those irregularities while you had it flipped?

Even adding one of those 5 degree transom wedges between the motor and jack plate will allow some more negative trim, negating some porpoising.

Once the hop starts it's sets up a rhythm and it's definitely annoying.

Maybe test with some Sand bags, another member here mentioned sand bags added up front helped his stream.

HTH

[roadkill636]

Flat as a 5' level can get.

I will try some weight up front.

The rear deck is pretty lite. And i did remove all of the foam boxes from the sides and rear.

[tunnels]

Flat as a 5' level can get.

I will try some weight up front.

The rear deck is pretty lite. And i did remove all of the foam boxes from the sides and rear.

Just small things can change the way fast hulls perform once you add speed !
Some boats relish and need rocker to get up level and go properly BUT get it wrong then you have yet more problems !!
Making boats light and skimping on materials etc. so they can fly, then adding sand bags ?? that doesn't make sense