1987 Valero YT Bowrider...need advice

[tunnels]

When making stringers , the what ever you making the stringer out of is not important and can be any old thing its the glass over that shape that's giving you strength and durability not the core you going to use ! the shape is what's the important part in reality polyurethane foam is cheap , easy to shape and is what can be used not a problem

Like I pointed out glass over the core with 1708 before then mount you stringers on top of the glass and then glass over them !!
There's a easy way that ends up stronger and there's a hard way that everyone thinks is good but its not as strong !!.
So what glass TYPE would you use to glass over you stringers with and how many layers ??

And the 1/2 H60 divinicell core would be bottom line for density ! If you using contoured make doubly sure all the individual blocks are sealed and fill between 100% every where!! this adds lots of extra strength and keep out any moisture !! I easier to lay it scrim side down and then you are able to fill the gaps easier and see what you are doing properly !

[dwilfong]

The core should cover as much as possible with no breaks in it for structure. Every break in the core is a week spot.
Short sections do not carry the load over the whole boat thy just carry it to the end of the core layer.
Lots of short sections make for a week structure.
Now if the break lines are down the length of the hull and tied in with a floor structure from side to side this will make for a triangular truss that will carry the load. This will also help keep the boat from flexing or folding in on itself.
Think about the stringer as a back bone to the boat. A box stringer will give the best support with out adding unwanted weight.
The floor is a structural part to this kind of build up. It is not just some thing to stand on. lots of structure with one layer of DB1700 glass on it will add up to more strength than less structure with mutable layer of glass on it if it is tied in together to form a truss system. In the long run you will have a lighter stronger boat.

[tunnels]

The core should cover as much as possible with no breaks in it for structure. Every break in the core is a week spot.
Short sections do not carry the load over the whole boat thy just carry it to the end of the core layer.
Lots of short sections make for a week structure.
Now if the break lines are down the length of the hull and tied in with a floor structure from side to side this will make for a triangular truss that will carry the load. This will also help keep the boat from flexing or folding in on itself. AAAAH ITS A ORIGAMI BOAT
Think about the stringer as a back bone to the boat. A box stringer will give the best support with out adding unwanted weight.
The floor is a structural part to this kind of build up. It is not just some thing to stand on. lots of structure with one layer of DB1700 glass on it will add up to more strength than less structure with mutable layer of glass on it if it is tied in together to form a truss system. In the long run you will have a lighter stronger boat.

IS THIS AN EXAMPLE OF THE OLDE KINGS ENGLISH ??

What planet are you from ???
Can you please explain how a boat can folding in on itself.
In all my time of messing with boat Ive never heard the phrase use before !! what does it mean ??? inflatable boats maybe ??

[tunnels]

What thickness should the core be??

I do seem to remember back away's 3/8 balsa being used on just about everything !
But in more recent times 1/2 seems to be the norm !!
Personally on boats that small I wouldn't bother with core and just use solid glass fabrics !!

[XstreamVking]

Jesus, here we go again....

[dwilfong]

Just ignore it or this thread will be come a joke as all the rest he is involved in.

[dwilfong]

More like fold up like a deck of cards..........

[One Oldman]

Looks like a failure to me!

[mran]

Ok....banter excluded....thank you all for the advice....I have about 24 yards of 1708 biaxial glass and planned on using it......i am looking locally for core. Also I figured i would use marine ply for the stringers and any trusses I'm going to glass in. I'm not really worried about weight (i don't need to go that fast) just want the boat to be safe for my family. As far as resin, i have some epoxy and will probably just buy more of it. One more question about the floor....im putting carpet down.....safe to use simply mat to laminate it?

[dwilfong]

You have to be careful with Matt or 1708 if it has Matt on it when using epoxy. It can have a binder on it to help when using Ester resins. Epoxy will not work with it.

[tunnels]

You have to be careful with Matt or 1708 if it has Matt on it when using epoxy. It can have a binder on it to help when using Ester resins. Epoxy will not work with it.

this info is out dated !!

Around about 4 to 5 years ago the binders of csm attached to Fabrics was done away with completely that is why the light weight csm matts and fabrics are stitched together , so there is no binder used any more !the csm is there for a very good reason !Its to glad reinforce the resin layer between the surface and the fabric . Manufactures have spent many hours in research and development to give the best products possible so take advantage of there know how !!
CSM P matt is compatible with all resins here is China !

[XstreamVking]

1/2'' balsa or some hi density foam core will be good. Bed it with putty made from the epoxy. Use a good quality marine ply and seal it good for the stringer replacement. 1708 will be good if you wet it out under and over with resin. Then roll the air out. Paint over the core with resin as a water barrier. You could use mat under and over for the floor cover, but use some 1708 around the perimeter to bond it to the hull.

[tunnels]

1/2'' balsa or some hi density foam core will be good. Bed it with putty made from the epoxy. Use a good quality marine ply and seal it good for the stringer replacement. 1708 will be good if you wet it out under and over with resin. Then roll the air out. Paint over the core with resin as a water barrier. You could use mat under and over for the floor cover, but use some 1708 around the perimeter to bond it to the hull.

Don't forget to prepare the surface properly BEFORE you start sticking anything down !! 1/2 BALSA there's not a lot to variety to choose from but foam there are quite a few so do you home work , My choice is core cell !!

[mran]

ok so I decided to DO IT! .....I have 23 yards of 1708 and about 7 Gallons of Epoxy. I ordered about 15 Quarts of Cabosil and 48 Sq. ft of Plascore Honeycomb 1/2 Core material. I also have 2 sheets of 3/4 Marine Ply.....

Will probably start grinding on Wednesday.....should be able to get a good 8 hours in on Wednesday.

I am concerned about supporting the boat correctly. I have to use Jack Stands and Blocks.....any advise on properly supporting this thing...I don't want any sag.

[tunnels]

ok so I decided to DO IT! .....I have 23 yards of 1708 and about 7 Gallons of Epoxy. I ordered about 15 Quarts of Cabosil and 48 Sq. ft of Plascore Honeycomb 1/2 Core material. I also have 2 sheets of 3/4 Marine Ply.....

Will probably start grinding on Wednesday.....should be able to get a good 8 hours in on Wednesday.

I am concerned about supporting the boat correctly. I have to use Jack Stands and Blocks.....any advise on properly supporting this thing...I don't want any sag.

Why would you pick on honey comb core ?? have you ever worked with and used it before ? what are the advantages of using such a thing ? what are you really going to achieve by using honeycomb instead of foam of balsa ??