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  1. #16
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    Have lived and worked in New Zealand ,Tahiti,Australia,Japan , south Korea, And now Suzhou in China
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    Keep us posted with lots of detailed pictures then you can get better advise ! Thanks
    Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!

  2. #17
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    Boy, this was a hoot today removing a mostly solid transom!! One more thing knocked off the list. Definitely got to get all the grinding done before the Florida heat shows up. Click image for larger version. 

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2371.jpg  

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  4. #18
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    You'll have a bitchin strong boat when done

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  6. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Shawano Lake
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    How are you support the bottom half of the hull? Did you build a compete jig before you removed the top half?

    1987 V-King YT 200 Evinrude Vindicator
    1998 16' Weers HPT Pontoon 60 Evinrude 36 MPH

  7. #20
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    Shawano,WI
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    I am soooooooo glad I didn't pull the deck on my boat. Good luck getting that back together, your a brave man!!

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  9. #21
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    I've got 6 total bunks under the boat on my trailer. I adjusted all of them carefully where I have really good support- I'm hoping thats good enough. I've checked several measurements on the deck and the hull while they are seperated, they are both still holding the same width dimensions.

  10. #22
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    That sounds great, I just wanted to turn out good for you after all the work you put into it. Keep up the good work!!��

    Bob
    Last edited by streamteam; 03-13-2017 at 05:37 PM.

    1987 V-King YT 200 Evinrude Vindicator
    1998 16' Weers HPT Pontoon 60 Evinrude 36 MPH

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  12. #23
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    Making progress: All of the core is installed. In my research, it was hard to find a lay-up schedule for most recores. Here's what I used:
    -1.5 oz CSM over the prepped hull
    -high quality Polyester resin (thickened with cabosil) as my adhesive
    -balsa core. Used resin/cabosil/1/4" fibers to make a putty for all fillets, hull joints, etc and sanded smooth
    -2408 biax over the balsa
    -I'm doing one final layer of 1.5 oz CSM just to make sure its all sealed properly. This might be overkill, but I don't want to do this project again- not on this boat anyway.

    I'm really happy with the way everything is going, this is my first time doing glass work, but I'm getting the hang of it. I had a few air bubbles when I started, here and there, but I've learned some techniques to eliminate them.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	372164Click image for larger version. 

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    It was pretty cool here last night, well, cool for Florida anyway, so I built a fire in the shop and laminated my transom. I'm using 2 pieces of 3/4" Coosa 26#. I sandwiched a piece of 1808 0/90 between the two pieces and clamped it down. I drilled weep holes in the one piece. I didn't want a bunch of extra holes, so I marked where existing holes in the transom skin were (jack plate, bilge, splash well drain, etc)and used them as the weep holes, it worked well.
    I plan to use 1708 on both sides of the finished piece, should be pretty strong.
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	35 
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ID:	372163
    Today's goal is to get the transom installed, tabbed and covered. Thanks again to everybody who's given great advice on this site over the years- I've learned a lot just from the search feature!

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  14. #24
    Join Date
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    Have lived and worked in New Zealand ,Tahiti,Australia,Japan , south Korea, And now Suzhou in China
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBMac View Post
    Making progress: All of the core is installed. In my research, it was hard to find a lay-up schedule for most recores. Here's what I used:
    -1.5 oz CSM over the prepped hull
    -high quality Polyester resin (thickened with cabosil) as my adhesive
    -balsa core. Used resin/cabosil/1/4" fibers to make a putty for all fillets, hull joints, etc and sanded smooth
    -2408 biax over the balsa
    -I'm doing one final layer of 1.5 oz CSM just to make sure its all sealed properly. This might be overkill, but I don't want to do this project again- not on this boat anyway.

    I'm really happy with the way everything is going, this is my first time doing glass work, but I'm getting the hang of it. I had a few air bubbles when I started, here and there, but I've learned some techniques to eliminate them.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2454.jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	430.5 KB 
ID:	372164Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2455.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	460.5 KB 
ID:	372165

    It was pretty cool here last night, well, cool for Florida anyway, so I built a fire in the shop and laminated my transom. I'm using 2 pieces of 3/4" Coosa 26#. I sandwiched a piece of 1808 0/90 between the two pieces and clamped it down. I drilled weep holes in the one piece. I didn't want a bunch of extra holes, so I marked where existing holes in the transom skin were (jack plate, bilge, splash well drain, etc)and used them as the weep holes, it worked well.
    I plan to use 1708 on both sides of the finished piece, should be pretty strong.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2461.jpg 
Views:	35 
Size:	417.4 KB 
ID:	372163
    Today's goal is to get the transom installed, tabbed and covered. Thanks again to everybody who's given great advice on this site over the years- I've learned a lot just from the search feature!
    Do you have any photos of the core going down ?
    What thickness balsa core did you use ?
    What made you use only carbosil to thicken the resin used as an adhesive to bond the core ??
    The 2408 over the balsa does it have any chopped strand under it as a bedding layer against the balsa core ??
    How did you wet out the glass ? mohair roller or big paintbrush ?
    You are going to cover the 2408 with a chopped strand matt to make it water proof YES ??
    Last edited by tunnels; 04-10-2017 at 02:12 AM.
    Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!

  15. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Have lived and worked in New Zealand ,Tahiti,Australia,Japan , south Korea, And now Suzhou in China
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    asking AGAIN!!

    Quote Originally Posted by JBMac View Post
    Making progress: All of the core is installed. In my research, it was hard to find a lay-up schedule for most recores. Here's what I used: -1.5 oz CSM over the prepped hull-high quality Polyester resin (thickened with cabosil) as my adhesive-balsa core. Used resin/cabosil/1/4" fibers to make a putty for all fillets, hull joints, etc and sanded smooth-2408 biax over the balsa -I'm doing one final layer of 1.5 oz CSM just to make sure its all sealed properly. This might be overkill, but I don't want to do this project again- not on this boat anyway.I'm really happy with the way everything is going, this is my first time doing glass work, but I'm getting the hang of it. I had a few air bubbles when I started, here and there, but I've learned some techniques to eliminate them. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2454.jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	430.5 KB 
ID:	372164Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2455.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	460.5 KB 
ID:	372165It was pretty cool here last night, well, cool for Florida anyway, so I built a fire in the shop and laminated my transom. I'm using 2 pieces of 3/4" Coosa 26#. I sandwiched a piece of 1808 0/90 between the two pieces and clamped it down. I drilled weep holes in the one piece. I didn't want a bunch of extra holes, so I marked where existing holes in the transom skin were (jack plate, bilge, splash well drain, etc)and used them as the weep holes, it worked well. I plan to use 1708 on both sides of the finished piece, should be pretty strong. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2461.jpg 
Views:	35 
Size:	417.4 KB 
ID:	372163Today's goal is to get the transom installed, tabbed and covered. Thanks again to everybody who's given great advice on this site over the years- I've learned a lot just from the search feature!
    Do you have any photos of the core going down ?
    What thickness balsa core did you use ?
    What made you use only carbosil to thicken the resin used as an adhesive to bond the core ??
    The 2408 over the balsa does it have any chopped strand under it as a bedding layer against the balsa core ??
    How did you wet out the glass ?
    mohair roller or big paintbrush ?
    You are going to cover the 2408 (why such heavy weight Glass ??) with a chopped strand matt to make it water proof YES ??
    Why didn't you do the chopped strand matt at the same time ?? wet on wet laminating !!
    Last edited by tunnels; 04-16-2017 at 03:53 AM.
    Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!

  16. Likes johng897 liked this post
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