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04-07-2017, 05:58 PM #16
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They use ni-com these days
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WillySteve liked this post
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04-07-2017, 06:43 PM #17
Here's my feelings on cyl plating!
If yer spending big bucks....as in 1600 for Pistons/Rings/LW Pins plus Rod Bolts, Bearings, Gaskets, TIME, etc....why not spend 4-6 extra $ on a nick job vs. resleeving with steel and not hav'ta worry about sticking pistons!!!!
Besides, the way I drive I'm always Balls to the Wall without a proper warmup!!!
It's worked for 20 years on this one and 12 on the last before I sold it still running great!WillySteve Hendricks

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04-07-2017, 07:22 PM #18
Is it cheaper to have it re-chromed like it was or does no one use that process anymore and puts nic in instead?
is there any benifit one way or the other? Seems like all the old chrome bore fishing motors were dang near bullet proof.
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04-07-2017, 08:36 PM #19
The chrome bore was replaced with Nikasil by Mercury. They've used several through the years including Merkasil but all were about the same. I don't think they use Nik anymore nor the Merk used back in the 80's.
I'm not sure what they call it now, but like I said, it's all basically a chrome bore.
I've had 3 and would have to say they have all been bullet proof.
I don't know how many times I've cranked and ran on early morning tournaments in cold weather....the only seizure I've had was missing the big one!!!!
Also, tighter cyl clearances = a more efficient engine! IMO
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04-08-2017, 08:47 AM #20
I HEARD to remove aluminun from a chrome bore 50/50 mix muriatic acid it will foam on the deposits then tooth brush w/ water. just what i heard somewhere.... ART
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04-08-2017, 09:14 AM #21
Cant hurt, right. Its already practically wrecked.
I wonder if anyone has had success doing this. That's the bigger questionIf I don't ask any questions, I'll never learn anything.
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04-08-2017, 09:42 AM #22
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04-08-2017, 10:59 AM #23
(936) 229-1865
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04-08-2017, 02:22 PM #24
Your not gonna' replate that mess, it doesn't work like bondo on a beat up fender!
that hole will need a new sleeve, the plating is only like.006 thick.
is gone
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04-08-2017, 04:47 PM #25
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Muriatic acid will remove the aluminum. Ide have it replated with nikasil. The stripper the plating companies use will take all that off anyway.
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04-08-2017, 06:33 PM #26
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BUZZIN' DOZEN liked this post
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04-08-2017, 06:38 PM #27
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04-08-2017, 06:47 PM #28
I agree the cylinder is probably shot, I'm going to mess with some acid and see what it takes to get the aluminum off anyways. You don't get this opportunity that often.
In the meantime I copied one of Chaz's flexible paper towel bore gage design and followed his process from another post just to double check for out of round. 3.375 right buddy?
If I don't ask any questions, I'll never learn anything.
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04-09-2017, 09:16 AM #29
Ozzy , how many times do I have to tell you ....
That's my "soft hone" . You can add sintered iron shaving from a brake lathe to remove that slag from your cyl wall's ...
As far as measuring .. a guy like you only need's one of them fake yeller stripe Mitutoyo calipers to lean over to say whatever number your lookin for ..
I see you have moved operations to your photo studio . All the recent players are there , roached block , bearing cap with retainer , recycled rod bearings , ring gear from a still stock flywheel , coil pack rigged to alert you whenever I post ...
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04-09-2017, 09:30 AM #30
Cha Cha Chaz, You must have slept all night without having to wake up to go pee. That was almost pretty funny this time.
If I don't ask any questions, I'll never learn anything.
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WillySteve liked this post
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