260 Stator Low Speed Windings

[WillySteve]

Was out yesterday, cranked up my 260 and ran 3 miles to one of my fishing holes. After an hour, cranked up and idled a few hundred yards to another spot. During the idle, the engine shut of twice, which is very unusual, but restarted fine both times. After another hour I got ready to go to the ramp and she wouldn't do anything but spin over, seemingly not firing as the fuel pump was running normal. Of course I had no tools onboard so came back in on the troller!

This morning, checking things out I found 6 wet plugs, No Spark on Port side, Weak Spark on Starboard and Low Speed Stator winding ohm'd as possibly bad.
My Question is: being none of the electrics on this engine have ever been replaced since 1995, should I replace the switch boxes and trigger along with the stator?
Also, what brand of electrics has everyone been having good luck with?
Thanks!!!

[flabum1017]

Being the electronics are over 20 years old, personally, I'd change everything. I would stick to OEM, I have had dumb issues with CDI that drive me batty like bad wire crimps etc......

[WillySteve]

Who has a good price on this stuff!!!!
I'm not ready to spend 6-7 hundred>>>>>HELP!!!!!!!

[patchesII]

Gonna be more than that even at dealer cost if you replace it all. A lot of guys I know are running CDI stuff now since some of the Mercury parts are NLA now. Pretty sure stators are one of them

[Capt.Insane-o]

I've been running CDI stators and boxes for years now.

You can OHM until your eyes bleed, but hot running output voltages are the only thing to base diagnosis on.

[WillySteve]

I've been running CDI stators and boxes for years now.

You can OHM until your eyes bleed, but hot running output voltages are the only thing to base diagnosis on.

I agree to the hot voltage tests however what I have here is an engine which won't make fire cold or otherwise and low speed winding's show open. I have a weak spark on one bank only, the other is dead!

[90 5.0]

Gonna be more than that even at dealer cost if you replace it all. A lot of guys I know are running CDI stuff now since some of the Mercury parts are NLA now. Pretty sure stators are one of them

I just got a new Mercury 16amp stator. But it's completely possible it was sitting on the shelf collecting dust at my local shop.

[ChrisCarsonMarine]

The stator windings produce the electricity to power the switchboxes,the switchboxes store the amplified electricity in capacitors waiting for the trigger to direct current to whatever coil is next in the firing order as the flywheel turns.The ignition system is shut down(off)by applying a ground to the capacitors via the kill wire,black/yellow tracer.This is accomplished by the key switch connecting the black/yellow to black(ground).This connection,shorting out the 250-300 volts stored in the capacitors to ground creates an arc in the contacts area of the switch,complete with resulting metallic throwoff(semi-conductor dust).This dust can cause several problems,but the two most important are,one,bleeding capacitor current to ground causing weak spark(especially at cranking speed)and ,two,carrying some battery voltage to the kill wire(blk/yel).If battery voltage approaching .5 v is applied to the kill wire on the switchboxes it may(will eventually)destroy them.Over and over I have seen folks repeatedly change switchboxes that fail quickly due to a shorted keyswitch.When troubleshooting always start with a voltage check at the kill circuit...motor off(don't crank)but cycle the key from run to off and back several times slowly,no more than.3 v should be present at any time...any more change the switch...and realize the dust becomes more conductive when moist(rain/dew).This certainly may not be your problem,but it's a quick,easy,free test that may save a couple switchboxes now or later,Chris

[WillySteve]

The stator windings produce the electricity to power the switchboxes,the switchboxes store the amplified electricity in capacitors waiting for the trigger to direct current to whatever coil is next in the firing order as the flywheel turns.The ignition system is shut down(off)by applying a ground to the capacitors via the kill wire,black/yellow tracer.This is accomplished by the key switch connecting the black/yellow to black(ground).This connection,shorting out the 250-300 volts stored in the capacitors to ground creates an arc in the contacts area of the switch,complete with resulting metallic throwoff(semi-conductor dust).This dust can cause several problems,but the two most important are,one,bleeding capacitor current to ground causing weak spark(especially at cranking speed)and ,two,carrying some battery voltage to the kill wire(blk/yel).If battery voltage approaching .5 v is applied to the kill wire on the switchboxes it may(will eventually)destroy them.Over and over I have seen folks repeatedly change switchboxes that fail quickly due to a shorted keyswitch.When troubleshooting always start with a voltage check at the kill circuit...motor off(don't crank)but cycle the key from run to off and back several times slowly,no more than.3 v should be present at any time...any more change the switch...and realize the dust becomes more conductive when moist(rain/dew).This certainly may not be your problem,but it's a quick,easy,free test that may save a couple switchboxes now or later,Chris

And you are saying basically to check to see if you have voltage from the Blk/Yel kill wire at the switch box location whenever the key is cycled?

[ChrisCarsonMarine]

More like voltage TO the Blk/yel wire going to the switchboxes...ie,voltage from the kill terminal on the key switch in the off or on position,or moving between them...no voltage preferred, up to.3v allowed,Chris

[WillySteve]

More like voltage TO the Blk/yel wire going to the switchboxes...ie,voltage from the kill terminal on the key switch in the off or on position,or moving between them...no voltage preferred, up to.3v allowed,Chris

Guess I'm ok there Chris. with the blk/yel leads disconnected from the switch boxes I have +.07v with key on and zero with it off, cycled several times slowly.
Thanks for the Head's Up!!!

Stator shows to be open on one of the blue leads to ground. I have required ohms to ground on the other blue and both reds!
Stator and 2 boxes on the way!

[Markus]

Stator and 2 boxes on the way!

Keep the switchboxes on the shelf and replace them when the current ones go bad. Get a couple of coils and another stator as well to keep as spares.

Every 260 owner should have a spare set of electrical components ready when something breaks, but there is no point in replacing something that is not broken.

[WillySteve]

I agree, esp when I'm so far back in the woods here in the mountains!!! I really can't believe I got 21 years out of the factory items!!!!
Somebody close must be livin'right....it sure ain't me!!!!!

[frank jackson]

install the new components run to test for proper running and remove , you now have a proven spare .

[WillySteve]

So, being it was going to take CDI several days to build a high performance, high rpm stator I bought a slightly used, known good stator from Marine Supply Inc. and 2 new generic switch boxes.
I purchased these just to get on the water while my good stuff is on order.
After assembly today I have the VERY EXACT same symptoms I had before!
No spark on Port and Weak spark on Starboard. Engine will not fire and run!
I'll switch wires on boxes to see if the problem moves to the other side but dang-it y'all....What's the chances of changing everything and having the same problem?
Is there anything in the ACU that could cause an ignition problem??? I say that because the outer switch box has the 3 piggyback wires which go into the wire harness as well as the starboard coils!