anybody have suggestions on how to wake up a sleeping car motor?

[mr fun]

have 2 sleepers to wake up, '64' Chrysler 383 that's been sitting for about 15 yrs, only 63k miles. next a 454 chebby in a motorhome with the same mileage that's been sitting for about 20 yrs. watched an episode on spike about the English guys picking up a 2002 bmw that had been sitting for about the same time, pulled plugs, ran diesel through the carb and spun it over, I may have missed a few steps, just don't want to do any damage, would like to get them up n runnin so I can focus on other challenges, thanks in advance. fun out

[outasite]

The safe way would be to pull the plugs,put three oz of oil in each.Then FILL the engine with oil as long as it's clean it could be drain oil.Im talking all the way to the top.You need to get the oil above. The cam and lifters,then roll it over.If there is any rust on the cam,or cylinders you want to wash it off rather than grind it in.I will admit I've never done this to an auto engine.But have done many aircraft that have sat for years this way with great success.You will have oil everywhere you need it.After you roll it about a hundred turns,pull the plug and drain it.Then new filter and oil,and fire it up!

[nitro_rat]

I would start with some spray lubricant in the cylinders. You can check for water or coolant in the bores at this time. If they look OK, I would then use a flywheel turning tool or a socket on the crank nut to see if they are stuck. If they turn over by hand ok, I would hook up the carbs to a small gas can and fill the float bowls with fresh gas. Maybe change the oil if you're pretty sure they're in good shape.

If they are truly unknown, I wouldn't waste money on fresh oil if the existing oil level is OK. They may fire up and start puking coolant or any number of other fun things. If they fire, let them come up to temp while checking coolant level and watching for leaks, listening for strange sounds. If they come up to temp and seem good, then flush the coolant and change the oil. That old nasty oil will drain much easier once it's warm.

Just my $.02!

[powerabout]

use oil that has zinc in it for flat tappet cams
I think Shell Rimula ( for detroits) still does

[nitro_rat]

use oil that has zinc in it for flat tappet cams
I think Shell Rimula ( for detroits) still does

Another reason I would leave the old oil in initially...it will still have the ZDDP in it!

[delawarerick]

Oil needs to be up top the spray is nice but don't overdo and hydro lock. If spray I would use kroil and crc mixed or atf. .02

[CDave]

Take the air cleaner off and open the throttle and with a flash light look into the intake for any foreign objects. Pull the plugs, add some marvel mystery oil through the plug holes, let it sit for at least 30 min., you can also spray in some oil like LPS or whatever ya like. Leave the plugs out and turn it over "by hand". If it's a manual trans make sure it's in neutral. If it turns over freely, drain the oil and coolant. When ya drain the oil watch to see if coolant comes out of the oil pan.
Put in fresh oil and filter and add water to the cooling system. Ya don't wanna add antifreeze until you are sure everything is OK and ya put on new hoses.
Now pull the distributor cap and check it and the rotor out; replace if needed. Check the plug wire with an ohm meter. Do an internet search for what the ohm reading should be on the plug wires. Also look at the wires for cracks and burnt spots.
Now if everything is OK spin it over with the stater to get rid of the marvel mystery oil in the cylinders. Now put in some fresh spark plugs, make sure the plug wires are on in the correct firing order, get some fresh gas and try and start it.

[delawarerick]

Marvel is good oilfor wake up but I have used atf and had good results. I have also run a quart of atf in the oil for first few miles and then changed.

[mr fun]

WOW, Thanks Guys !!! I'm thinking a combinatation of all these suggestions will be my attack. just don't want any unnecessary metal on metal wear.

[nitro_rat]

If it's been sitting for years even if a gasket is blown/head or block cracked, if you pull the drain plug and there is water in there, it will usually be at the bottom and fully separated.

Loosen the drain plug until it's almost out. If oil starts to drip you're good. If water starts to drip, pull the plug but hold it close and wait for the oil. Stuff the plug back in quick like a bunny!

You can now see if it will run and try to fi d the source of the water later...

I may just be a cheap bastard, but I usually resurrect 2 or 3 cars/trucks a year and never waste money on new oil until the vehicle prooves itself (transmission, brakes, etc)...

[FUJIMO]

The most wear on a car/truck/boat 4 cycle engine is always on initial startup for the first minute. Everythings dry. This is the moment in time that all of our beloved engines age. For this reason, pre-oiler systems have always been popular on commercial vehicles, as well as hi-performance engines in boats & cars. Pre-oiler systems pump oil from the oil pan, to various critical points around the top of the engine for a minute or more, before initial startup. Yes, you might want to consider manually pre-oiling the engine thoroughly, while cranking it over without ignition fire, for a few minutes. Get good(new) cranking batteries.

[flabum1017]

As for pre-oiling.... I don't know about the chrysler, but the chevy, you can remove the distributor and use an oil priming tool and drill to prime the motor by spinning the oil pump without spinning the dry engine. run the tool for about five minutes then put the distributor back and and roll the engine over with the starter a few time then try to start it. you'll probably need to rebuild the carbs, new cap and rotor,plugs etc...... Looking down into the intake is important, especially if the air filter has been chewed through but unlikely any critters got past the throttle plates