Help, Evinrude falls on its face when throttled

**racervboat** · 06-17-2016, 11:40 AM

Well like I told you last night on the phone that was your problem,i have had to bend those tabs up on a few motors to let the timer base move freely no big deal.Looks like you need a stator but you can still go and try the boat out should now haul ass simple fix and its freeeeeeee lol ken

**racer** · 06-17-2016, 07:47 PM

See post #4 about timer being stuck. Once the stator starts to leak it is only a matter of time before it fails.

**Krazymaan** · 06-17-2016, 09:29 PM

Originally Posted by racer

See post #4 about timer being stuck. Once the stator starts to leak it is only a matter of time before it fails.

Looks like its time to get a new stator. So are they all the same as in only 1 choice? I have no idea.

**Krazymaan** · 06-17-2016, 09:37 PM

So besides all that. I bought a new water pump and housing. I was observing that before I changed the water pump that water was squirting out of the front of the housing, it was leaking pretty heavy along the entire seam between the lower unit and the mid section. So I put in a new pump and housing correctly thinking this was the issue. Well it still leaks out of the seam between the lower unit and mid section and all the little holes that go into the lower unit/mid section. I checked the copper pipe and even measured it and it all aligns up pretty well and goes deep enough. The tapered rubber bushing is in correctly. Seems sloppy though so after taking it all apart and looking for anything. I decided to install the old tapered rubber bushing/sleeve thing in the top portion and greased it so there was a very snug double fit around the copper tube. put it together and it still leaks through all the holes and seams. So it appears that i cannot pull the copper tube out from the bottom and I don't know whats up there where the copper tube attaches to something. So does anyone know what could be the problem? Also today on the lake after i got the timing base loose and free, I got about 1/2 mile out and the engine overheated and the water discharge was weak. Any thoughts? Oh, by the way. I am quite sure I do NOT have it timed correctly, would that overheat it.

**powerabout** · 06-17-2016, 09:48 PM

When you say overheat, did the horn go off or you put your hand on it to feel the temp?

**Krazymaan** · 06-17-2016, 09:58 PM

so i did some digging. I guess water squirting out of the seam in normal.

**Krazymaan** · 06-17-2016, 10:01 PM

Originally Posted by powerabout

When you say overheat, did the horn go off or you put your hand on it to feel the temp?

I know the timing isn't set properly. But I took it out on the lake. got about 1/2 mile out and the gauge was almost topped out. red on bottom then a lot of green then red on top. It was 1/4" into the red. I didn't hear any horn go off. So i just turned around and drove slowly back to the landing keeping it under 2k. So by the time i got back to the landing it was just at the border line of green and red/overheating. It didn't idle funny or try to die at all. when i stopped at the dock waiting for the trailer, I didn't smell heat or anything. I didn't take the shroud off either though. It fired right up after sitting for a few minutes too then i trailered it and brought it home.

**racer** · 06-18-2016, 07:04 PM

You need to verify your overheat warning system (buzzer) Install a water pressure gauge to check pressure. Sure you got the right Factory kit? Get 3 o-rings in place and correctly sealed? Impeller installed correct? Manual?

**EMDSAPMGR** · 06-19-2016, 09:00 AM

I use a white lithium grease on the timer bases. It is much thinner than other greases and is less apt to get stiff in cold weather. It's pretty slippery stuff. Wheel bearing grease is too thick for this application.

**Krazymaan** · 06-19-2016, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by racer

You need to verify your overheat warning system (buzzer) Install a water pressure gauge to check pressure. Sure you got the right Factory kit? Get 3 o-rings in place and correctly sealed? Impeller installed correct? Manual?

yes, I double and triple checked but doesn't mean I am right. gasket, plate, o-ring, impeller fits only one way, spin shaft clockwise makes tips face clockwise so to say, stainless cup, bigger o-ring between cup and housing, housing, tapered water pipe seal with thin edge facing up or larger opening and then that pipe guide plastic thing that screws to the top. I"ve done it 3 times. I even long filed the mating surfaces between the mid section and lower unit so they were perfectly flat.

So what if I took off the lower unit and hooked up the hose to it. would there be anything for me to see/verify. I'm going to do it anyway but do you know what i should look for or not look for?

I read that the seal around that removable exhaust tube could be the problem. I haven't exactly looked up to see if the seal is good or even there. I suppose I should do that too.

**pointer** · 06-19-2016, 12:39 PM

Is the post about the Merc that took out a cylinder yours?

pointer

**Krazymaan** · 06-19-2016, 04:09 PM

Originally Posted by pointer

Is the post about the Merc that took out a cylinder yours?

pointer

Yes that's mine too. It seems when one breaks they all break

**58Evinrude** · 06-19-2016, 04:24 PM

I hear ya on that one. I've got 2 broken V6's and V8 that's giving me fits.

**racer** · 06-21-2016, 08:55 AM

If you did not move the timing stop when you removed the timer timing should not have changed. I doubt the top seal is bad on the water tube. Water control valve or thermostats could be the issue, remove thermostats and with covers off start and see how much water comes out if it has a good strong flow replace thermostats and verify valve operation. Water leaking at seem should be warm and water that is exiting the engine.

**Krazymaan** · 06-21-2016, 09:49 AM

Originally Posted by racer

If you did not move the timing stop when you removed the timer timing should not have changed. I doubt the top seal is bad on the water tube. Water control valve or thermostats could be the issue, remove thermostats and with covers off start and see how much water comes out if it has a good strong flow replace thermostats and verify valve operation. Water leaking at seem should be warm and water that is exiting the engine.

Its interesting that I can only reply with a quote from my phone. But yes I will check the flow as you described. Just an observation question. Did these engines leak at the body seam from the moment they were new?