who to send a block to ?

[luv2gofast]

No Ooppsss needed Chaz...Thanks for your input and getting me started thinking about the options. I ALWAYS learn something new when I visit S&F and there is already lots of good information in this thread.

"There is absolutely nothing cheap about these motors."

Truer words were never spoken! I have bought and made a bunch of tools myself to work on this stuff and parts prices are always a surprise. I know it's hard to get the wife/girlfriend to understand you need diamonds for your hone...hopefully that investment will pay off well in the end.

I would like to stimulate a bit of discussion on the pros and cons of replating the whole block vs. putting a sleeve in one hole. Whats the approximate cost to install and finish the sleeve? Is that repair just as good / reliable as a replate? It looks like the block has aluminum sleeves from the factory, probably made by Mahle for Mercury? From the dimensions on Advanced Sleeve's site, it looks like the original sleeve is partially bored out and the replacement sleeve inserted into the remaining portion of the original sleeve. Is that correct or is the original completely removed? Is heat transfer just as good as the original solid sleeve?

Also a correction to my post about thickness. I checked last night with a feeler gauge and it looks like the plating is about .010" thick.

[Dave Strong]

You need to get a hold of a good bore gauge and check the other cyls for out of round and taper. Just because the plating looks good does in no way mean the hole is round. If you do the motor with cyls that are not round it will not last or perform well.

Dave

[Dave Strong]

You need to get a hold of a good bore gauge and check the other cyls for out of round and taper. Just because the plating looks good does in no way mean the hole is round. If you do the motor with cyls that are not round it will not last or perform well.

Dave

[luv2gofast]

You need to get a hold of a good bore gauge and check the other cyls for out of round and taper. Just because the plating looks good does in no way mean the hole is round. If you do the motor with cyls that are not round it will not last or perform well.

Dave

Yep valid point Dave. I was assuming they are good because I checked them when I did the last rebuild and don't have that many hours since. I have a good bore gauge and the numbers from the last rebuild so will check and compare. For sure a factor in the decision.

[Chaz]

The sleeve that Advanced sells for a 280 is 3.821 on the O.D. Which is the O.D. of the original .
The best way to get the stock sleeve out is to bore it till it's paper thin and use a scribe to hook it and what's left will pop right out.
Heat the block , freeze the liner and the new one will drop right in. They come 3.495 so you have to hone the last .005

[luv2gofast]

Thanks Chaz,

So I see no drawback to that if the rest of the holes are good. The block should be as good as original. Please let me know what that costs or give me your number to call and discuss.

[Chaz]

772-408-7377 Leave a message 9-5 EST , and I'll call you back when they let me out of my cage ...

[Markus]

I would like to stimulate a bit of discussion on the pros and cons of replating the whole block vs. putting a sleeve in one hole. Whats the approximate cost to install and finish the sleeve? Is that repair just as good / reliable as a replate?

I faced the same decision a couple of times and was through a few of those discussions with Ruck. (I still have a 1993 260 block that Ruck fixed if someone needs one, btw. Front half has been welded, though).

If there is a reason to believe that additional holes will flake, go for the $1000 procedure. If not, just replace the sleeve.

[luv2gofast]

You need to get a hold of a good bore gauge and check the other cyls for out of round and taper. Just because the plating looks good does in no way mean the hole is round. If you do the motor with cyls that are not round it will not last or perform well.

Dave

Other bores look pretty good ~.0003 taper. One is out of round .0025 at the top so I think I should straighten it if I can. the rest are less then .001.

I'm a little worried about the rod. It got pretty hot on the small end.

[rankink]

Adding on to this thread as others have done for my issue I have a 280 block that got some bad gas, lost a cylinder and proceeded to put some holes in the block. What I would really like is some recommendations on who can do proper welding on this, and then possible new sleeve/nic work. Besides confirming if all cylinders are round there is one gouge in the sleeve pictured below just under the port that is an issue.

What are some opinions?

[luv2gofast]

OUCH!! What poked the holes? You might be alright with the dig below the port if the rings don't go down that far and it's not sticking up.
Jay Smith makes a tool to push the out-of-round cylinders back to round. I just used it on my block and got them all to ~.0005 in about 15 minutes. Do you have a good bore gauge?
Mine had a big chunk of nick torn out so had to be sleeved but you might get away without a sleeve or nick job if there isn't too much wear and the rings don't cross the gouge. I'm pretty sure a re-nick would fix that anyway so probably don't need a sleeve.

[rankink]

#5 rod kinda shattered and made a few holes as you can see. I picked the whole engine up real cheap because of it. Already have gotten a new cranks and needed rods/pistons but need to get the block patched up and fixed. I "think" the rings go down that far as you mentioned unfortunately though.

No gauge, so I am really looking for who I should send it out to to fix the issues.

[speedinstream]

Outback outboards in Augusta ga

[baja200merk]

Send it to Chaz he will sew it up.

[Chaz]

Send it to Chaz he will sew it up.

The floor looks kicked out of that one .. Thanks Kev ...

Chaz = wunderin why I always get the easy ones ...