User Tag List
Results 16 to 30 of 55
-
03-28-2016, 03:26 PM #16
yup a forester rebel looks like that one has a pad,mine was just a vee bottom.
-
03-28-2016, 03:50 PM #17
Welcome! Take your time, one thing at a time, and it WILL come together! I have a source ANYTHING IL6 needed you, just ask. We all like a project, and many been there, done that, and the work was damn sure worth it! Good luck!
Last edited by Robby321; 04-15-2016 at 02:45 PM.
-
03-28-2016, 04:16 PM #18
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2016
- Location
- ND
- Posts
- 19
- Thanks (Given)
- 3
- Thanks (Received)
- 0
- Likes (Given)
- 1
- Likes (Received)
- 4
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Thanks for the welcome and the fact I can ask questions regarding that IL6..I'll have plenty of them. I've taken a ton of pictures of that as well which I'll end up posting in that area.
-
03-28-2016, 04:45 PM #19
Looks really cool, good luck. Keep it vintage, love the color and the motor.
-
03-28-2016, 05:25 PM #20
Welcome , really cool looking project. Best way to learn is do it yourself, and you will have the satisfaction of a job well done.
1993 Cougar 21ft MTR Superbender SHO
-
03-28-2016, 09:35 PM #21
Now down to more specifics. Someone else already noted that it appears that the transom is wet. Need to rebuild it. You need to learn if the bottom of the boat is solid fiberglass or is cored. If cored, most likely that you need to replace that also. Now that I am typing, I don't want to go back to your photos again, but one poster noted pressure treat 2x4s. They cannot be original, even if the bottom is solid fiberglass sounds like the stringers need to be replaced. One poster talked about high quality wood--the other alternative is any one of number of non-wood core materials.
There is a specific forum on here for fiberglass rebuilding. There are some very detailed threads on it with complete rebuilds, analyzing what is used, how and why, with lots of pictures. There is one started by my son, Matt Gent on these forums, that is the type I am suggesting. Spend the time to go through at least 3 or 4 to understand the job, then plan yours.
It will be a treasure when you are done.Per Rock:
"Once I bought my first Hydrostream boating changed forever for me."
Per my hero Instigator:
"I try not to let common sense interfere w/my boat buying decisions."
Pat Gent
cell 954-249-3246
'78 Hydrostream Vandal (being rebuilt)
'86 21' Eliminator Daytona, 300 OMC V-8 (Li'l Toy III)
-
Scream And Fly liked this post
-
03-29-2016, 02:30 PM #22
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2016
- Location
- ND
- Posts
- 19
- Thanks (Given)
- 3
- Thanks (Received)
- 0
- Likes (Given)
- 1
- Likes (Received)
- 4
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Thank's for the advice Li'l Toy, along with everyone else!
I've checked out a couple of rebuild threads and they've helped me greatly so far in deciding what I want to do. I'll check out your son's thread as well.
-
04-15-2016, 01:22 PM #23
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2016
- Location
- ND
- Posts
- 19
- Thanks (Given)
- 3
- Thanks (Received)
- 0
- Likes (Given)
- 1
- Likes (Received)
- 4
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Alright, so I think I'm just going to start the build in this thread since it's already here.
I finally got a start on the boat. Got some great advice from everyone here. It is a mid 70's Forester Rebel. I'm going to try and keep it as original as possible since I like the look of it so much.
There is one beam (stringer?) and a single floor board in the boat which I've now taken out. The fiberglass came up easily once I cut into it. I just ended up using a crowbar to peel it off. I'm going to sand down the rest of the glass and get it nice and clean. I'm going to need to remove the top of the boat to get to the very front where the gas tank is and see the damage up there. Everything was pretty much soaked.
I attached a few pictures. You can see that I'll have to do some repairs to the hull due to someone putting screws straight through. Luckily those will just be small patches. It's going to be rather wet this weekend with the rain, so I'm not sure what I'll be able to do since I don't have a garage to work out of. We'll see what I can get done.
I'm going to be building a mount for the motor so I don't have it sitting on the ground. The transom is in need of a rebuild as well. And I think I'm going to bring it in to a shop to get the merc looked over. Otherwise, I can definitely throw more pictures at you guys for some advice on that as well.
Any ideas on who I should get fiberglass through? I've seen a few names used here and there. I'll update you all as best and quickly as I can.
-
Scream And Fly liked this post
-
04-15-2016, 01:32 PM #24
5000 RPM
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Umatilla, Fl. 32784
- Posts
- 126
- Thanks (Given)
- 0
- Thanks (Received)
- 2
- Likes (Given)
- 0
- Likes (Received)
- 9
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
From that I see, get you boat sitting level & plumb, on something until the job is finished. Then remove the deck, a bit pf a PITA at first but you'll be time ahead when you finish. Then start your clean up.
Don't be afraid to ask questions, we'll all try to help.
-
Gra.ndmaster thanked for this post
olboatman liked this post
-
04-15-2016, 02:02 PM #25
Get the hull braced up good and straight first. Either build a wood jig/table for it to sit in or put the trailer on leveled jack stands and add bunks to the trailer (at least 3 per side total) and make sure they are even and as straight as possible. I used a string, levels, and a tape measure to accomplish this starting from the center and working out. Then remove the top deck and go at all the rotting wood. Save as much as you can to use as templates for new wood. Take lots of pictures!! Looks like you have flat lying balsa core in there too. That will need to be checked for rot and replaced if so. You can drill plugs out to check and fill any holes in with epoxy "peanut butter" if the core is good. You need to go the whole 10 yards. You don't want to do this more than once. If done right, it will last a lifetime.
Greg
'73 Switzer SS170 w/ '75 Merc 1500 L6
'89 Switzer SK-175-BR w/ '88 Merc XR4 150
'90 Switzer SS-20-BR w/ Supercharged 350ci I/O
-
Gra.ndmaster thanked for this post
-
04-15-2016, 02:46 PM #26
I for sure would dump that steel gas tank as ya now its rusty inside.
-
04-15-2016, 02:50 PM #27
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2016
- Location
- ND
- Posts
- 19
- Thanks (Given)
- 3
- Thanks (Received)
- 0
- Likes (Given)
- 1
- Likes (Received)
- 4
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
I completely agree with you on taht one Robby321
-
04-15-2016, 03:44 PM #28
-
04-15-2016, 06:27 PM #29
Great looking project and could turn out very well if you take the time to source the needed material and study all the info out there. You Tube is full of DIY vid's, The Fiberglass section here, Fiberglassic.com is nothing but old Restorations.
Fibreglast.com is a great place for material to rebuild the stringers and re glass the floor.
Seacast for transom repair and possibly stringer material. http://www.transomrepair.net/index.php?cPath=1
Moeller marine has a great selection of tanks should you want something lighter.
I was lucky and found this little Tahiti a few years ago that the 2nd owner had re done the transom, floor, wiring and what not.


Over the years it has been through a number of up grades, new gas tank, seats carpet


Painted the motor and new decals.

To the latest up grades...2011 150 OptiMax, Oil injection, hydraulic steering , new stereo, Mercury Smart Craft Monitor, Mercury control shifter....in short you can make the whole boat new if you want to.



Check out http://www.sidewinder-boats.com/port...s.php?name=Jig as well as http://www.classicglastron.com/ as you will need some ideas for the seating. 2 buckets and a bench across the back might be the cheapest way to go. 2 Buckets and a panel to cover the gas tank and battery and a bunch of bean bags across the back.
Good luck and ask your questions as I am sure someone here will have the answers.
KarstenLast edited by Karsten; 04-15-2016 at 06:38 PM.
-
02-27-2017, 11:29 AM #30
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2016
- Location
- ND
- Posts
- 19
- Thanks (Given)
- 3
- Thanks (Received)
- 0
- Likes (Given)
- 1
- Likes (Received)
- 4
- Mentioned
- 0 Post(s)
- Tagged
- 0 Thread(s)
Hey everyone,
It's been a long time. I haven't gotten much done due to weather here in ND. It was nice for a couple days but I wasn't at home for that. I don't have a garage or anything I can work out of either.
One thing I have a problem with is the motor. The ignition is trashed, the throttle had been taken apart, gas lines are non existent. Took the cover off the Merc and it's decently clean. A few wires are noticeably damaged and/or missing completely. I'm thinking about getting this: http://www.iboats.com/Mercury-Outboa...view_id.688595
I desperately want to keep the engine it has. I've seen them run and they're amazing when it's all put together.
Does anybody live around Fargo, ND? lol I'm fine with getting the boat together. I'm pretty comfortable with building, not so much with motors though..
Similar Threads
-
Post your favorite pic of your boat
By Viper GTs in forum General Boating DiscussionReplies: 309Last Post: 02-18-2012, 09:07 AM -
how to post a boat for sale?
By BMorgan in forum Posting Questions and SuggestionsReplies: 1Last Post: 07-05-2006, 03:01 PM -
To post,post,back then,post again.Replies show on e-mail only
By Racemore in forum General Boating DiscussionReplies: 5Last Post: 09-30-2002, 03:17 PM




Thanks:
Likes:
Reply With Quote






