Lost reverse

[jmadisonbiii]

I've got a 2.5 lower with Bob's cone I bought from a guy on here late last summer. Went out today for the first time this year after changing oil in the lower. Ran 25 miles or so with no issues. Got back to the landing and had no reverse. No warning whatsoever, no grinding, jumping out of gear, etc. Forward still works great, no noises. Checked the linkage and everything looks normal topside-the shift lever goes all the way to the rear and nothing, prop spins freely. Just wondering what happened and how bad $$ it is. Any ideas? Every other lower I've had go bad gave plenty of warning before crapping out-except a CLE with locked up driveshaft being. Thanks for any help.

[pointer]

Disconnect the shift cable and see if you can shift it into reverse by moving the linkage to rule out the cable & control throw.
If you can't shift it by hand drain the gear case and see what comes out.

pointer

[Onetime]

Is this the first time trying reverse in this gear case?
Typically when reverse goes it will clatter when you put in reverse as the dogs are dancing over each other and not engaging.
Never saw one with no noise in reverse and still shift in and out of forward. Are you sure you timed the shift shaft to the lower unit correctly?
Take a look and see if the bearing carrier nut loosened up allowing the bearing carrier, along with the reverse gear, to move back away from the dogs.

[rock]

Take a look and see if the bearing carrier nut loosened up allowing the bearing carrier, along with the reverse gear, to move back away from the dogs.

I have had this happen. If it did there will be water in the oil (most likely).

Rock

[Dave Strong]

As Onetime said if the bearing carrier nut slipped or backed out this will happen but normally ratchets.

Dave

[jmadisonbiii]

Yep, the big bearing carrier nut backed out. Only about 1/4" of hub showing, some water in the oil, and oil in the hub around bearing carrier. A little bit of metal on the magnet, no more than usual. On closer inspection, the bearing carrier nut had a crack all the way through, I guess that would do it. Just to be sure, I tightened it a couple of turns and sure enough it was trying to catch when I rotated the prop. Guess I'll order a new nut and may as well put a seal kit and water pump kit in while am at it. I'm hoping no permanent damage as I never heard grinding, no chunks in oil, etc.

[Dave Strong]

Hopefully the threads in the case did not get damaged.

Dave

[TEXAS20225]

case may be swollen and nut wont stay tight, ive had them pop out after torquing it down they have to be 225 minimum torq or it will spin carrier which it probably has already good luck

[jmadisonbiii]

Got the carrier out today, it had spun. Some of the threads, and the keyway look pretty shallow/washed out. I installed everything and tightened the nut,seems like it wants to hold, and everything seems to be working properly. Haven't torqued it down yet though. What about loctiting the carrier nut and/or pinning the carrier?

[rock]

Loctite and pinning might help but in my experience Loctiting and pinning are just band aids putting off the inevitable. Hopefully they get you another season but I would start preparing to either have case repaired or replaced. Good luck.

Rock

[Dave Strong]

Loctite and pinning might help but in my experience Loctiting and pinning are just band aids putting off the inevitable. Hopefully they get you another season but I would start preparing to either have case repaired or replaced. Good luck.

Rock

The tell tale will be when final assembly comes and you try to fully torque the bearing retainer nut. Some shops have a thread chaser for the housing threads, we have 2 styles. Might see if you can find a shop with a thread chaser and get them to clean the threads. At that time a tech with experience can give you a good opinion if it's even worth trying to use the housing. Good luck.

Dave

[Robby321]

Loctite and pinning might help but in my experience Loctiting and pinning are just band aids putting off the inevitable. Hopefully they get you another season but I would start preparing to either have case repaired or replaced. Good luck.

Rock

Yep, and been there done that. Using reverse as little as possible will buy ya some time, but like Rock said.." repair right or replace"..

[jmadisonbiii]

Thanks guys. This will only be a temp, I hope. I won't run it too hard. Sent my CLE off today to get repaired-driveshaft bearing. If the nut holds, I will keep this one for a spare. I wouldn't sell this thing to anybody.

[Robby321]

Thanks guys. This will only be a temp, I hope. I won't run it too hard. Sent my CLE off today to get repaired-driveshaft bearing. If the nut holds, I will keep this one for a spare. I wouldn't sell this thing to anybody.

Yep..it can be "fixed". My take here as done it my Switzer XS 1500 1974 (new, and J block) with a surface 14x28 cupped SS prop. That slapping prop beat the hell out a couple rear carrier case. But DO NOT USE any Loctite, 4200/5200 3M! Just something to seal L/U water intrusion, like "Boat life" caulk..?..forgot and slam it home for a good seal, easy torque and then drill and tap 4 holes into the carrier, 1/4-20, or bigger and set screw it. And won't hurt to add outer a couple worm gear hose clamps. Do that, easy on reverse, and ..well?... cheap fast fix. Wish the best here!