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02-27-2016, 08:56 AM #16
Screaming And Flying!
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put a good stator on them, use an unsealed lead acid battery, check you primary voltage as criteria and you can do 10k with OMC ignition
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02-27-2016, 11:15 AM #17
5000 RPM
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I've never turned a v6 with Omc ignition that high. I have turned my v8 with Omc ignition 9100, but that was with crossflow Omc v4 power packs. I'm not saying it can't be done. They just go bad frequently.
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02-27-2016, 11:48 AM #18
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I have run standard omc ignition with a race flywheel 9500 many times. A standard lead acid battery is a must if you want the regulator to last. The 35 amp stator are not as reliable as the 10 amp used with the race flywheel. I have worked on omc for 45 years and while the ignition is not as good as Yamaha it's a lot better than some seem to think.
Yes you can make big power with these but to make over 300 everything better be right.
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02-27-2016, 06:12 PM #19
5000 RPM
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If you want to stay with omc ignition the 86/87 is a better set up than the newer single butterfly pack
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02-27-2016, 07:02 PM #20
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Ignition from Yamaha is the best you can do,then you will have a motor as good as anybody Freddie knows what he is talking about.
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02-28-2016, 02:03 PM #21
5000 RPM
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Al has much more experience with the Omc ignition than I do. I never meant that it couldn't be done, maybe I just gave up on it too quick. Maybe I will revisit the Omc ignition again. I honestly didn't give the v6 ignition a fair shot. I had some success with Yamaha and jumped onboard. I will seek advice from Al and give it another shot.
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02-28-2016, 02:35 PM #22
5000 RPM
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Hi i have a 1996 Johnson 225 complete with lower unit. But has a hole in the block. Great parts motor. $ 500.00. Thanks Steve.
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02-28-2016, 05:37 PM #23
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Freddie,thanks for the kind words. Its all in finding a stator with 300 volts of output and cylinder head design. Some heads make it more difficult to fire (blows out the spark) and is somewhat compression limited. Best stator but getting hard to find is the blue colored one off the carb V8 race engines, next is the old green crossflow version. Both work with the race flywheel setup.
One advantage to the Yamaha system is it reduces timing at higher rpm levels which also as you know helps the to continue to grow. Leads to other options that allow you to program timing on individual cylinders.
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02-28-2016, 10:21 PM #24
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02-29-2016, 02:02 AM #25
Screaming And Flying!
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inductive systems are nice and have lots of power but not sure they can hack it at hi revs
How come CDI cant copy Yam quality and put it in a omc components?
(SST45 and 60 do fine with stock electrics)
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02-29-2016, 02:49 AM #26
In my opinion the reliability of a OMC can not be matched by a Merc 2.5. I had a 2.7 block bored to 3 liter that made 389hp and spun 8850 rpm every pass. I ran it 100 hours between rebuilds. The only reason I tore it down was the fear of piston failure. This engine had the original connecting rods and crank. The gold flywheel ignition was falwless until I started spinning it over 8500 rpm. Went to the Yamaha ignition and never had a failure again.
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02-29-2016, 03:50 AM #27
Screaming And Flying!
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02-29-2016, 09:43 AM #28
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Tims engine spent time on my dyno. If memory serves it had a cdi race stator. Danny a good friend of Tim and I had one of the green ones on both his engines, one made over 410 on stock plastic carbs and would spin over 9k at will.
Stock looper 35 amp stator will not fit under race flywheel.
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02-29-2016, 11:40 AM #29
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oldschooltv, thank you for the feedback about my cathedral hull & offering what I might expect to spend for parts to get something that will preform & is reliable.
Freddie Webb, thank you for the heads up about the trade-offs I can expect to make with respect to horsepower and ignition system longevity. That the Yamaha ignition is reliable replacement is very helpful information. I would have been inclined to do exactly as you, go straight to the Yamaha ignition at the first sign of trouble, given what I've read.
racer, thank you for noting the differences in stator reliability. That I have another option beside OEM & Yamaha is good to know.
frank jackson, thank you for the advice on the 86/87 2 pack ignition being solid. From what you and others have mentioned I see no reason to steer away from the small bore if one becomes available at a good price.
steve123, if you were in Michigan I'd give serious consideration to your $500 hole in the block, engine. That is EXACTLY what I'm looking for. Something that's economical and demands being completely disassembled for repair/inspection. I admit, buying a running time bomb with fair compression would lead me to hang, run it & worry about what was inside.
baja200merk, thank for the extra thumbs up on the 86/87 with 2 pak ignition being as good or better choice than the following years big bore models. It boosts my confidence shopping as they become available.
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