Needle bearing assembly grease in DFI?

**wingtime** · 12-24-2015, 11:24 PM

I have read the debates on what type of lube to use one needle bearings during powerhead assembly (BRP or Merc grease, Lubriplate, oil etc). What I have not read is what should or should not be used in a DFI engine. I'm getting ready to assemble my 3.3L Etec block. I was planning on using Promarine's assembly grease. However I got to thinking about the lack of fuel in the crankcase to wash out the grease after initial start up. Is the oil lean environment of a DFI crankcase sufficient enough to wash out the grease in short order after start up? The FSM says to use "outboard lubricant" aka tcw3 oil on the rod bearings. Also if one uses just oil will it stay in place long enough if the engine is not started right away after assembly?

**olboatman** · 12-25-2015, 08:08 AM

Scribed.....Merry Christmas! Gary

**racer** · 12-25-2015, 09:18 AM

On the caged bearings (rollers held in) I used TCW3 two stroke oil. Non caged BRP assembly lube, same for loose rollers in cages.

**outasite** · 12-25-2015, 10:32 AM

I use an assembly lube that we use at my shop(transmission rebuilding)called Trans Gel it is like blue Vasoline but melts at a very low temp.Allways worked well for me for any type of engine.

**JOSEPH SHULMAN** · 12-25-2015, 07:05 PM

Originally Posted by wingtime

I have read the debates on what type of lube to use one needle bearings during powerhead assembly (BRP or Merc grease, Lubriplate, oil etc). What I have not read is what should or should not be used in a DFI engine. I'm getting ready to assemble my 3.3L Etec block. I was planning on using Promarine's assembly grease. However I got to thinking about the lack of fuel in the crankcase to wash out the grease after initial start up. Is the oil lean environment of a DFI crankcase sufficient enough to wash out the grease in short order after start up? The FSM says to use "outboard lubricant" aka tcw3 oil on the rod bearings. Also if one uses just oil will it stay in place long enough if the engine is not started right away after assembly?

I have used the pro-marine assemble lube on a 300x with no problems yet but I would listen to racer's advise! Al is the guru..

**Steve Pope** · 12-25-2015, 07:26 PM

On caged bearings that have captured rollers use the same lube that the engine is going to run on.

**wingtime** · 12-26-2015, 03:40 PM

I belive the Promarine stuff is Transgel.

So if the rollers can fall out... assembly grease...... otherwise tcw3 oil. Makes sense.

**ChrisCarsonMarine** · 01-11-2016, 12:53 PM

I was taught at an early age not to use grease at all for needle bearing assymbly...that it had a tendency to slide the needles instead of letting them roll in the first few seconds during and after startup,resulting in microscopic flats on the needles,shortening their life.I've never put this to the test,and never felt a need to...I set the wrist needles in place in the rod with a spacer a few thousandths smaller than the wrist pin,supported on the bottom by the washer,put the rod into the piston and slide the pin into the rod,displacing the spacer...slip in the other washer,install the circlips,and you're done.Add a squirt of oil and you're set...no sticky grease,no sliding bearings,no washing grease out...
Proper lube is important in a four stroke to protect against bearing wear on forced oiling systems before they build oil pressure...no need on a needle bearing...light oil is my choice...although I do have a favorite mix I like,I don't think it's important.
Think about it...there are usually around twice as many wrist needles as rod needles,only moving in a 60 degree arc,instead of the 360 degree motion of the rod needles...they should last forever...yet we see failures commonly...might sliding greased in place needles be a factor?
Who knows,but for me the spacer method is faster,cleaner,simpler,won't slide the needles,and I won't have the chance of sticking a greasy needle somewhere it dosen't belong,Chris

**Bodhi** · 01-12-2016, 11:03 PM

Tcw3 is not a bad idea, I have had great success using a good quality fogging fluid, especially if you don't plan on starting up right away. I ve found that fogging fluid will keep internal parts "wet" long after some 2 stroke oil will have run down with gravity. Hope this helps

**Dd24skater** · 01-13-2016, 08:29 AM

+1 on vasoline....used it on bridgeports bitd

**wingtime** · 01-27-2016, 06:33 PM

I ended up just using tcw3 two stroke oil sinceall the bearings in the etec are caged

**2us70** · 03-06-2016, 07:50 PM

Back in the day I used " STP". It was sticky and held the needles well but allowed them to roll. Also with those old motors the premix would wash it away pretty quickly.

**Superbender** · 03-06-2016, 09:16 PM

Klotz assembly lube

**ghost28** · 03-07-2016, 11:15 AM

i will say this...I pulled apart a 150hr 300xs that was run pretty hard in its life and when i did there was still needle bearing assembly lube in the slots in the bearing cap on the big end and still some next to the washers on the wrist pins....It definetly does not wash out like it does on a normal 2 stroke...i think in a case where your gonna build the motor and start it right away 2 stroke oil or an assemly lube like bender mentioned from Klotz is the way to go in a DFI....If its gonna hang around on the shelf for some time personally i think grease since theres less likelyhood of it dripping off the bearings....opinion here not a tested theory....

**150aintenuff** · 07-06-2016, 10:20 AM

promarines needle bearing assembly grease is actually lube gaurd Dr trannys assemblee goo in blue meaning it melts into oil at 140 degrees, they make a green as well that melts at 160 for summer assembly at higher temps. IIRC mercurys needle bearing assembly grease is the green lube gaurd..

i use it on every needle bearing build ive ever done, never once have i had any issue with any assembly save for 1 set of bearings that had a plating error the mfg replaced free of charge on a 2.5L merc caged rod bearing.

had an HPDI that had a fuel related failure after 1 hr of use after a rebuild and the main bearings and rod bearings were oily from it melting but no raw solid grease remained the wrist pin washers had a very slight grease coating, and i expected had the thing not detonated due to bad fuel it woulda been fully ashed out before the engine exited break in mode at 120 min