NFZ / Noles Fiberglass LTV (Laser LTV copy) Help!

[Laz]

Hey everyone, I'm new to Scream And Fly, but I've been a long time reader of the forums. I finally got myself a fast boat (hopefully) and I need some help on the prep and setup.
I bought this boat from a member here, Reponick82, and I'll be using some of his pics, so you might have seen it before.
It's an 1987 NFZ LTV hull, similar to a Laser LTV, paired with a 1989 Merc 2.4, with oil pump removed on a hydraulic jackplate.
It came with a 26 Pitch Mercury Chopper prop. Apparently it was used since it seems reworked. The owner bought it reworked and he never used the prop, and it seems the rework wasn't quite perfect (You can see it in one of the pictures).

I've been around boats for quite a while, but I haven't really used any speedboats, so I have a few questions about it:
1. What should I look for to be sure if there isn't any dry rot or some sort of wood rot short of disassembling the hull? Also, are the stringers used on this boat wood or fiberglass?
2. Are there any safety issues that I should be worried about with this boat?
3. Can the Chopper I currently have be used without much problem on the motor/boat? (Check the pictures, it has some pitting which looks like a welding job to me, and some dents as well)
4. What is the recommended prop/general set up for this boat/motor for mostly pleasure cruising on light chop? (I've looked around and I have seen people using Cleaver props, but I'd like to know if I can make do with what I have.)
5. What is the ring that came with the prop for? (Last pic, I've never seen this before.)
6. What should I set the timing on the motor to at Idle, Idle with load, and Maximum, respectively?

I included some pictures of the boat and motor, as well as of the prop rework and the ring that came with the prop. I know this is quite a lot for my first post, but I've just never had experience working on these boats before. Thanks for listening and thanks in advance for any info you guys might have for me.

[laser380]

First off.....Welcome to S&F and Nice ride.

I would advise you to look up the guys named "da-bull" and "T-REX". These guys are very informative on this style boat. All I will say is do a search for a "LASER" or " LASER LTV" AND DO A LOT OF READING.....

Safty issues, these boats are fast and can be a handfull. There are stories of blowovers over 90....most times they are safe from the reading I have done in the 80's. Respect the trim as that will be your worst enimy or kindest friend.

The ring you have shown, if I am not mistaken, is a blow out ring. Never used one, but it is supposed to go on the gearcase with set screws and keeps the prop from airating and losing its bite.

The pits on that prop blade does look like a repair was done. It could be a good repair or bad one...hard to tell from just pictures. But it you plan to surface run it, i would have it checked.

As for the the stringers....yes it has them. They are a wood under glass construction. The only way to tell if it has rot in them is to test drill the stringers and knees with a 3/8 drill bit closest to the transom and neerest to the floor (CAREFULLY AS TO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE HULL). If wood shaving come out other than a light tan and dry....there is a good chance there is wet wood and or damage from water intrusion. Same for the transum. You can refill the holes with a good fiberglass jell to seal them if they are dry. I did my laser 380 ray the same way, and it will tell you alot about the health of the wood.

There again....check with ...da-bull....and t-rex. They are great people a little hard to understand unless you know cajun, but still great people....WELCOME ABOARD!!!!! Have fun and Be safe that the key....

[Laz]

Thanks for the info laser380, I guess I'll go and look for some of their posts and threads and read up!

I do want to add that I don't plan on running it too fast, primarily because I'll be running in light chop and from what I had read before, these boats are real rough after the water gets even a bit choppy. The other reason is because I'm scared to be in the drink at any speed, so until I get real friendly with the boat, I plan to take it easy.
So, with that said, if I don't surface run this prop, it shouldn't make the motor vibrate to bits, right? (I know it's hard to tell without seeing it firsthand and I probably will have it checked out, but I'd like to get a few opinions.)
As for the blow out ring, I did a bit of reading, and it seems that I either have to drill into the gearcase or weld it on....so is it really necessary or can I do without it?

Thanks for the welcome and for the info

[laser380]

You are more than welcome. Hope this help you a little.

If you are not going to be running over, I would say 60mph...and you are not going to be surface running the prop....you should be alright with that prop. I would still have it checked for cracks since it had a repair done to it. Also, as for the blowout ring....I would not be concerned about it. Lots of people including me dont run them...never have and never had a problem. And yes, you have to drill the gear housing and use either set screws. i would not weld it...if you have to remove the gears in the foot for anyreason, you would be SOL if it was welded.

As for the copy, a friend of mine just traded his off and it was a real light layup just like the one you have. His name is "CPTUNNEL". It would run though, but as you say...it did not like rough water. The thing trick to getting a better ride....you have to get on top of the chop to get it to smooth out a little. My laser is the same way. If I putt along its rough, but if I get on top of the chop it gets a lot better.

As for the vibration...look and see if youhave solid motor mounts. I have a feeling it does. If it does, yes it going to vibrate throughout the hull. No problem there as they all do that. You can check to see if they are solid by removing the little cover on the side of the mid section near the bottom. Solid piece of aluminum....they are solid......piece of aluminum and a black rubber bushing...they are rubber isolated mounts.

[200valeroyt]

For just cruising around under 70, any chopper or through hub prop will work. Above that, attention needs to be on trim, getting propshaft up over the pad, cleaver or et style prop.

[Laz]

Thanks for the tips and info guys. Currently, I still have to finish up a few things on the boat before I can get it into the water, but It shouldn't take too long.
Something else I noticed is that it does seem like I need a thrust washer, but I'm not sure which one I need for this prop, or if a normal thrust washer will do since there is quite a gap when the prop is fully set into the splines on the lower unit. If it's necessary, I can have pics up of the prop on the shaft tomorrow...