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04-16-2009, 10:11 PM #1
5000 RPM
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Run it with a scratch on the cylinder wall??
I'm doing a cheap rebuild on my '76 rude 115. New rings, gaskets, seals, 1 set of rod bearings and 1 new piston. The hole of which the piston is being replaced has a scratch in it. I wouldn't go as far as to say it's a gouge. You can't really feel it with your fingers. Now at the bottom of the cylinder you can feel it but the rings don't go down that far. I've done a light hone on all holes with 400 grit just to brake the glaze. Scratch is still visible but like I said, can't feel it. Do I run it? Continue honing until it's completely gone? I'm almost at the limit of the ring gap specs. .007-.017 are specs. Ring gap on that hole as of now is .016 The other holes have a ring gap between .014-.016
What are the likely results if I run it as is? What are the likely results if I hone it and end up with a ring gap of .021 then run it?
Any and all imput will be appreciated. Even if it's not what I want to hear1975 CV16/ 1975 Johnson 115
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04-16-2009, 11:27 PM #2
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if the rings wont touch it, run it.
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04-17-2009, 12:32 AM #3
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Just to clarify, there are two scratches one up top that I can not feel with my fingers but I can see and the other at the bottom were the rings can't reach (this one is big enough you can feel it with your finger)
1975 CV16/ 1975 Johnson 115
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04-17-2009, 12:39 AM #4
Make sure you hone it well. This will keep it from scratching the new piston. If you can't feel it, it aint going to do anything. Run it. If it is below the exhaust port. It is fine. Just my 2 cents worth.
James Perry
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04-17-2009, 04:18 AM #5
6000 RPM
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Not unusual for these engines to run with scratches that you mention. The issue with scratches is that they become a passageway for exhaust gas. The exhaust gas will get forced down by the cylinder wall by the rings and eventually carbon will accumulate there. The whole process will have some long-term affect on durability. Having said that, this process may take a long time to manifiest itself into a problem. Even years of running. You may find that an annual decarb will keep it running beyond your years of ownership.
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04-17-2009, 07:04 AM #6
Screaming And Flying!
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I run a chrome bore 2.4 that had a groove in it like a 3rd fingerport...Ruz az good az one that had NO scratches.....
If'in it ain't leek'in water from tha water jacket, it ain't too deep....Specially fer an OMC........They kan tolerate tolerences like a desiel....
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04-17-2009, 07:55 AM #7
I have a 60* that I am rebuilding for high leakage. I tore it down and the guy had recently started using sea foam. That stuff works. Normally you tear them down and they will have "blue" fuel in the cylinders. This has black stuff in it where it was breaking down the carbon. The ring lands are almost spotless! It was even cleaning the carbon even off the heads!!! After the break in I would either run it or like EMDSAPMGR said, do the annual thing. Alot of people live by sea foam and I can see why. Looks to be some kick butt stuff.
James Perry
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04-17-2009, 09:19 AM #8
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Thank you fellas, I will run it as is. I'm really glad you were all in agreement on that too. I was really hoping it would be fine like this. I appreciate your help. Scream & Fly is an awesome place!!
1975 CV16/ 1975 Johnson 115