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Thread: Chine walking Tahiti boat
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05-01-2007, 07:54 PM #1
Chine walking Tahiti boat
Hey guys My buddie has a old tahiti v-bottom , it has a 150 blk max, the thing chiune walks real bad, is there anything that can be added on to stop it from doing that.. Don't want to Do any fiber glass..
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05-01-2007, 08:13 PM #2
5000 RPM
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solid motor mounts, dual cable steering, nose cone
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05-01-2007, 08:23 PM #3
Lots of seat time.
Try raising the motor?Sean
Hydrostream Valero
2.4 Merc
Seebold Eagle
2.4 Merc BP(still waiting for starbord Mahle pistons)
DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!
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05-01-2007, 10:39 PM #4
If that boat has a round bottom and you don't want to put a pad on it you need to get the slack out and get up on the wheel.If you pad the last 2' of the bottom it will make a world of difference.
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05-02-2007, 08:17 AM #5
It has nfb daul sterring, 6in plate, stock mounts,
Racemore, you know where any pics are of a bottom like that with a pad?
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05-02-2007, 12:31 PM #6
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in the past i had a 16' silverline garanda with a 150 johnson. it was like the Ty, round [no pad keel]. but i did have hydralic trim tabs. if you get them so their barely touching the surface at wot, they can help the chime walk. notice the can, you'll need lots of seat time and room to get every thing adjusted correctly. and $400 for the tabs. if you want to keep the boat just add a pad 3-4' long and tapering to 6" at the tramsom. it'll do a far better job.
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05-02-2007, 05:08 PM #7
anyone got any Pads that have been done like this???
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05-02-2007, 10:23 PM #8
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When does it start chine walking if I may ask? Im getting a 150 for my tahiti and am interested what Im in for
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05-02-2007, 10:51 PM #9
If you search the Fiberglass forum i'm sure you will find several threads about them.My Tahiti was a flat deck model with a 454/jet but my Rabco had the same type rounded bottom and I padded it and it was easy to drive.Now it will chine walk but with a pad you'll get the hang of catching it and countering it and the boat will set.I good example of a worked Tahiti bottom is the one that raced in Palatka last season.It won Class and trimmed out real nice. Rich Martin knows where it is and it's available.It's just a short pad with a slight hook so the boat will get out of the water.A little practice and it becomes automatic.
The Rabco at 85-90
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05-02-2007, 11:27 PM #10
mmm
hi guys dave here from down under ( new zealand ) hey that looks a bit like the plylite panther hull they useto sell here they had a real bad chine walk at top end with plenty of horse power mmm those were the days
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05-02-2007, 11:39 PM #11
another pic
they were also made under the name pride panther
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05-03-2007, 06:17 AM #12
mmm
there was a guy over here that had a panther that walked real bad
he put in solid motor mounts ,a pad ,wing steering ,and cable, even mounted the wheel in the center of the dash and remounted the seat in the center
and after all thatit still walked
so he sold it. The guy that brought it was an ex power boat racer put in the required seat time and what do ya know
it still walked but know where near as bad after he blueprinted the hull and pad
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05-03-2007, 09:26 PM #13
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05-03-2007, 10:48 PM #14
yea i agree a lot of its to do with seat time my old boat was ok up to 50 but getting that last 10 took seat time then when i could drive it ok at 60
i found little things could still upset it like currents in the river or wind mind you it didnt have a pad.when i brought my first pad boat 1750 aussie bullet
it still took seat time to be able to drive it but it was way more stable at speed sittin on the pad
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05-04-2007, 10:10 AM #15
yah,or just buy a tunnel and enjoy it!
why ask me ?