First 2.5 mods

[CHEVYMAN434]

Yeah,it prob has eliptical shaped toons also..they are made to plane..Im doing this with a old syte round toon..lol..They are 27" round only thing they got going for em

[CHEVYMAN434]

I’ve found the biggest seat of the pant feel as well as out of pocket reduction is compression increase . I cut EVERY set of head on EVERY motors I build as well as maching a bunch of heads sent to me to cut .People love the low dollar non intrusive upgrade .

Far as the fishing grade motor flywheel reduced in weight my take would be it could take some on the forward and aft load on the cheezy upper bearing . On every motor I build the Tygon tubing that comes from the lower check to the upper check that feeds the upper bearing with lube I install a tee in the upper portion of that transfer line , the lubrication that the upper bearing gets fed is diluted with fuel , the tee in the upper part of that line allows the user to inject non diluted oil in the upper bearing thus , I find , allows that bearing the best shot of a long life run , been doing them that way for 20 years and can’t remember a top bearing failure on a any JSRE engine build .....

JMO,
Jay @ JSRE

Jay,you dont think cutting mine would run the risk of running a cylinder hot with the incresed load it being a tritoon?

[ChrisCarsonMarine]

This site and the opinions here are aimed more toward high performance motors,and boats...the setups are aimed likewise.The factory sends the motors to the general public,and expects a degree of what performance folks would consider abuse,less than fresh fuel,overproped or overloaded,etc.Because of this,a certain amount of under-tune is normal.More performance and economy can be had by adding compression,timing air and fuel...But this defeats the safety factor the factory built in...so setup becomes important,along with fuel octane and volatility,and running the correct propeller to match the load to achieve full rpm,Etc
In your case I would mabey cut 040,if you really feel the need,should render 135-140 lbs compression,Use only fresh premium and prop to turn 5800 at WOT...

[CHEVYMAN434]

Ok thank you Mr Carson..Please just send me the parts i ordered from you yesterday sir..I did call back and leave you a message that my guy did allready get us head gaskets ok..But i will take the other stuff..Thank you

[Jay Smith]

No I don’t , I wouldn’t have mention it if I thought so , the low end torque increase will amaze you , but if your concerned leave it stock .

Jay

[90 5.0]

With cut heads and a heavy rig you need to be careful with the timing and the fuel has to be GOOD, can get detonation easier the heavier the rig gets.

If you set it up for one load, with one prop then take a bunch of people out, and load the boat down the motor might ping on that prop especially.

I’ve seen it on my bass boat loading it down before with a big wheel, I wouldn’t do it.

One heavy load hot day and some gas that’s not just right and a cylinder just a little hotter on the timing and bang.

Leave the black flywheel if holeshot is a concern on that rig with what you got, put the red on for piece of mind, either or you won’t tell a difference at the rpm you are turning.

Going from a 16amp to a 40amp on a light boat and short prop you pick up some wholeshot, 40 amp on a heavier rig with a bigger prop(competitively since you aren’t gonna be turning 8k+) the 40amp is gonna Jump up better.

On my bass boat with a fishin load and a big wheel, the 40amp comes up faster.
With the 16 amp on it only comes up faster in race set-up and a short prop.

I have almost 3 years of testing on those two set-ups back to back, and switching my boat from race one weekend to a tournament the next.

Sometimes id leave the 16amp on if I didn’t have the time to swap over and could tell the difference between the race electronics and a heavy load with a big prop vs my fishing electronics with it.

I also tested a lot with the fishing electronics racing before i switched it to 16amp.

I swapped it all back over to the black 40amp for good now, and that’s on a bullet bass boat.

For a tritoon, get it right, leave the compression stock and stock timing etc.

theow reads in it, clean the injectors and tool around the lake.

[ChrisCarsonMarine]

With cut heads and a heavy rig you need to be careful with the timing and the fuel has to be GOOD, can get detonation easier the heavier the rig gets.

If you set it up for one load, with one prop then take a bunch of people out, and load the boat down the motor might ping on that prop especially.

I’ve seen it on my bass boat loading it down before with a big wheel, I wouldn’t do it.

One heavy load hot day and some gas that’s not just right and a cylinder just a little hotter on the timing and bang.

Leave the black flywheel if holeshot is a concern on that rig with what you got, put the red on for piece of mind, either or you won’t tell a difference at the rpm you are turning.

Going from a 16amp to a 40amp on a light boat and short prop you pick up some wholeshot, 40 amp on a heavier rig with a bigger prop(competitively since you aren’t gonna be turning 8k+) the 40amp is gonna Jump up better.

On my bass boat with a fishin load and a big wheel, the 40amp comes up faster.
With the 16 amp on it only comes up faster in race set-up and a short prop.

I have almost 3 years of testing on those two set-ups back to back, and switching my boat from race one weekend to a tournament the next.

Sometimes id leave the 16amp on if I didn’t have the time to swap over and could tell the difference between the race electronics and a heavy load with a big prop vs my fishing electronics with it.

I also tested a lot with the fishing electronics racing before i switched it to 16amp.

I swapped it all back over to the black 40amp for good now, and that’s on a bullet bass boat.

For a tritoon, get it right, leave the compression stock and stock timing etc.

theow reads in it, clean the injectors and tool around the lake.

This dosen't make sense to me...what does the flywheel weight have to do with boat weight?A lighter flywheel spools up faster,and of course the smaller prop makes a much bigger difference than the flywheel.I guess what I'm asking is why would the heavy flywheel accelerate better with a heavier load than the light one,but not with a light load.Changing speed of anything requires energy,the same amount of energy moves a lighter thing further/faster than a heavy thing...

[FMP]

Any chance your ign likes the low rpm output if the 40 over the 16 and is resulting in a difference until more rpm? Is it a matter of parasitic loss by demand at low speeds?

[nitro_rat]

The heavy flyweel stores more energy and the application of power is smoother. It's like moving a heavy object with a hydraulic ram vs beating on it with a hammer. If you can swing the hammer fast enough you might beat the ram, the ram is smoother and easier on the equipment.

[FMP]

Energy, in what form? How is it released during acceleration?

[tlwjkw]

ya'll sure gettin' deep tryin' ta make a plain jane toon inta a 2 mph faster "hot rod"...…

130lbs is jus fine with it.. might take a little off ta make sure they are flat and go with it.. add a 2 ta 1 gear case and prop it for 5800 ta 6 grand and be happy for a long time ta come...

buy ya 600/800 lb. hot rod ta cure tha speed junky in ya... jmo.

[nitro_rat]

The heavy flywheel stores more energy from each power pulse to keep the application of power more steady. Between pulses, the light flywheel is trying to stop because it hasn't stored as much energy as the heavy one. Not noticeable with a light boat but maybe noticeable with a heavy one.

I'm not a physics teacher, maybe I'm not the best one to explain?

Same reason a truck flywheel is heavy and a race car flywheel is light. A pontoon is a truck and an Allison is a race car. I have no vested interest in what flywheel anybody runs on their boat. I like the stock 9/16 amp ones for my junk (red, green, gray, whatever, I can't tell any performance difference between them)! If I was building a toon motor I'd put on a black 40 amp one. Got one in the store room...

If anyone is interested, I have a light weight flywheel I'll sell; they're the latest rage on pontoon motors! If I had a "light" 40 amp one, I would sell it and run a black "heavy" one. Why? The red one will put more $$$ in my pocket and nobody will ever know the difference unless I take the flywheel cover off...

I'm out!

[FMP]

It takes more energy to accelerate a heavier object, whether the input is continuous or non.
Remove the flywheel and feed the ignition and it'll accelerate a higher rate.

[90 5.0]

The heavy flywheel stores more energy from each power pulse to keep the application of power more steady. Between pulses, the light flywheel is trying to stop because it hasn't stored as much energy as the heavy one. Not noticeable with a light boat but maybe noticeable with a heavy one.

I'm not a physics teacher, maybe I'm not the best one to explain?

Same reason a truck flywheel is heavy and a race car flywheel is light. A pontoon is a truck and an Allison is a race car. I have no vested interest in what flywheel anybody runs on their boat. I like the stock 9/16 amp ones for my junk (red, green, gray, whatever, I can't tell any performance difference between them)! If I was building a toon motor I'd put on a black 40 amp one. Got one in the store room...

If anyone is interested, I have a light weight flywheel I'll sell; they're the latest rage on pontoon motors! If I had a "light" 40 amp one, I would sell it and run a black "heavy" one. Why? The red one will put more $$$ in my pocket and nobody will ever know the difference unless I take the flywheel cover off...

I'm out!

exactly, while it’s not apples to apples I’ll give another example I e tested and seen back in my race car days.

In a light drag car with a high rapping small block big gears(numerically , “lower “ in terms of turn per turn), and a lightweight flywheel give increased acceleration.

In my race car I ran a lightweight fidenza flywheel, and it was noticeable the change. It was a high reving(9k+ 302 , very light coupe and 4.56 or 5.13 gears depending on track).

We we would have customers with “stockish “ mustangs. You know the basic full interior , street driven 3.73 head cam intake cars go out and want a fidenza , we’d tell them it was a waist.

They’d go to the track and the car would slow down.

Same reason, as the heavy boat with a big prop will get out of the hole faster with a 40amp than a 16.

I’ve seen it over and over again.

Throw a short prop on a high reving motor and it all changes...

[FMP]

Goin to slap a 1000lb flywheel on my 6 CHRYSLER and whip you all. LMAO
Take two identical engines same hp. One has a 10lb wheel, the other a 1000lb wheel. Run both at WOT with an engine brake to limit it to 1000rpm , release the brake and time the acceleration to 6000rpm of both. Then maintain 6000 for just enough time to have zero acceleration and WOT with the brake. Shut the ignition off and release brake simultaneously and time the free spin back to 1000rpm, the deceleration.