V-king

[nitro_rat]

The front of the hull almost never touches the water though.

When it does it’s because of an unexpected roller or taking a wake, even cutting through moderate chop. These are the situations where most small/fast hull crashes happen.

Another important area to look at during a rebuild that I don’t see discussed much is the deck to hull joint. Some of these boats were well done from the factory, some were not. I de-capped a ‘73 Viper that took hours to cut the joint because of all the glass and resin in the seam. I also have de-capped a V-King (‘81 maybe?) that took literally 5 minutes with a battery powered sawzall once the rivets were out of the rub rail. It was only attached well at the back of the wings and one spot about a foot long at the port side of the nose! If this boat ever stuffed it would have been disaster!

[LakeFever]

I do think about that. I am fairly picky with my water by nature because I've been boating my whole life and had my share of unintended BIG air prop out of water moments in boats ranging from tin to old faithful. So I naturally keep the speed down and roll out ahead of any wakes. That said even with the best efforts there is the occasional hard hit and your right, thats when it gets tested. Ive already pounded a few with this boat going across a much larger lake than I would usually run. It was 2'+ the whole way with large boat traffic so I was hitting some 4' peaky clean cap waves that I had a hard time seeing. I know myself, I will probably core the living heck out of it when that time comes

[W2F a V-King]

The front of the hull almost never touches the water though. Its always bow high even when cruising half or more of the boat is in the air. Maybe core up there isn't needed? I tend to overbuild things willingly sacrificing weight to gain strength but its a more delicate balance with boats so Im wondering now

I believe the core adds structural integrity from bow to stern, even if it's not in a wet area when riding high. Then there's the occasional rouge wave or just busting wakes. Lots of pressure on a hull that is unseen. Added weight is ok in structural areas imo. Even setting on a trailer the core helps to keep things right.

You are correct though, some boats don't need or have a core because of a thicker hull layup and the design of the boat may not need it. I also tend to overbuild stuff and it does add weight. Easy fix to counter this.....Add more HP !!

I added a section of left over core material up under the deck area in my V-King. It was thin up there and flexed a lot just walking on it. And because there was a crack in it from the previous owner up there.

[LakeFever]

I believe the core adds structural integrity from bow to stern, even if it's not in a wet area when riding high. Then there's the occasional rouge wave or just busting wakes. Lots of pressure on a hull that is unseen. Added weight is ok in structural areas imo. Even setting on a trailer the core helps to keep things right.

You are correct though, some boats don't need or have a core because of a thicker hull layup and the design of the boat may not need it. I also tend to overbuild stuff and it does add weight. Easy fix to counter this.....Add more HP !!

I added a section of left over core material up under the deck area in my V-King. It was thin up there and flexed a lot just walking on it. And because there was a crack in it from the previous owner up there.

Indeed!

This thing does have a fairly rickety feel to it which is likely from this ultra thin front hull area. Im totally used to it now but at first it felt very strange compared to old faithful which is all glass no core and solid as a rock which I like. It wont be getting torn apart this year, hopefully next. I likely wont have it in the water much next summer either. Lots of life events happening in the coming months

[nitro_rat]

When jou just core up to the dash there is a very rigid section which is normally in the water. The thin section of the V can flex when not cored but that flex stops abruptly at the beginning of the core. That’s where it’s going to break...

[LakeFever]

When jou just core up to the dash there is a very rigid section which is normally in the water. The thin section of the V can flex when not cored but that flex stops abruptly at the beginning of the core. That’s where it’s going to break...

I can feel it shudder a little bit going over chop right under my feet in this area. Thanks for the tips, core to the max it is!

[tnelsmn]

Great platform to start with. Kinda looks like its a Vulture 20. Seems longer from the windshield frame back. Does the metal flake look good enough to keep and re clear or are they planning to paint?

I've seen a few people mention saving the flake. Is it not possible to have flake like this redone with gel coat? I'm hoping to have my Viking gel coated after finishing the core this winter.

[nitro_rat]

Is it not possible to have flake like this redone with gel coat?

Possible but VERY time/labor/material intensive and thusly $$$$! It isn’t possible to sand the flake without destroying it so you have to do your “bodywork” first. Black gel is next. Then you have to apply the flake in “reverse” order the factory did as they laid it into the mold. Lastly you have to lay enough clear on top to “bury” the flake as it is quite large and “rough” in texture. Not many are willing to do it or even to “try!” Automotive clear will only last a few seasons before it starts to flake off.

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

He's gonna redo the metal flake himself, here's a practice run

[Capt.Insane-o]

Awesome...it's metalflake or it's crap!

[LakeFever]

Awesome...it's metalflake or it's crap!

Haha there is truth to ths

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

Another shot of the practice piece. Also he's gonna order some smaller size flakes to mix in with what he's got, the guy who's giving him the advice says it will really "pop" using various flakes.

[LakeFever]

I've done some candy coats with auto before and the more coats the merrier. I used a mid coat clear its called and stepped over a base of silver mist with numerous tints and added only a little a time. I think the one job had about 30 coats by the time I was done. Mid coat clear is not activated, same as base coat. For top coat finish two medium wet coats clear, cure one day, scuff, two more medium coats, cure, polish and talk about ten foot deep shine! Oh fun days

[XstreamVking]

Keep the gun back from the surface to "blend" the flake colors better. Also some ball bearings in the cup to agitate the flake helps too. jm2cts

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

Bottoms done!