"What you read on Scream & Fly is B.S" Quoted by local boat shop

**Ajskennels** · 08-04-2017, 02:13 PM

http://biggerhammer.net/mercury/

Click the link and scroll down to cranks, lots of good info on this page

**tlwjkw** · 08-04-2017, 02:19 PM

both of those have shouldered center mains and did not come from a 2.4.. tha shoulder allows ya ta run tha bigger OD plastic center mains in tha motors ya talkin' about... any 2.0 crank from '76 to whenever it went away will work.... but not a 2.4 crank unless its a hi performance, non-oilier crank..

and yes all tha ID's are tha same on ALL of 'em... its OD that changes..........

thats more Jay Smith but i'm more T-rex............

**Ajskennels** · 08-04-2017, 04:14 PM

Correct, the od on the crank changes, not the ids on the block, if you use the correct bearings any of them will work, not gonna get in a pissing match about this but i have a crank from 1985 2.4 liter mariner chrome bore 2 piece head 200 that ran a crank that required metal caged bearings in a 1998 mercury 2.5 liter steel bore 1 piece head 200, here is the welch plug serial #'s if you like to look them up

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**racervboat** · 08-04-2017, 04:15 PM

well GMAFF first of all you member since 2013 with 6 posts and right off you bash s&f and say were full of b/s and we still give you the info your looking for but we s&flyers still help you if you don't like this site take a fing hike buddy. JMTC

**tlwjkw** · 08-04-2017, 04:39 PM

Originally Posted by Ajskennels

Correct, the od on the crank changes, not the ids on the block, if you use the correct bearings any of them will work, not gonna get in a pissing match about this but i have a crank from 1985 2.4 liter mariner chrome bore 2 piece head 200 that ran a crank that required metal caged bearings in a 1998 mercury 2.5 liter steel bore 1 piece head 200, here is the welch plug serial #'s if you like to look them up

ain't no pissin' match.... there is not a steel caged center main made by anyone that will fit tha OD required for a "fat block 2.0/2.4/2.5"... if there is gimme a part number?... so no tellin' what you put together...........

what ya did is use tha big od plastic ona non-shouldered crank..... which some do and get away with it.................................................. for awhile.

**gmaff** · 08-04-2017, 05:17 PM

Thanks for all your help guy's! I am confident that it is a 2.0L and will work just fine. I tracked down my old boat mechanic and showed it to him. He looked over the mock up and said it was fine. Also said that "Those guy's at Scream and fly are really smart". Also told me that burning the one piston was probably a lean condition and if I look at the carburetor the jet on the starboard side is for the cylinder on the port side. I surely would have missed that.

Can't find any cheap cast pistons. I thought "Sea Cross" might be okay but can't find a catalog. Trying to save $$$, $1000.00 for six pistons and resizing is more than I wanted to spend. The machinist said the starboard bank was in spec and could use std. pistons but told me my pistons are worn too much and shouldn't be reused. What's your thoughts on the Port bank at .015 oversize and the Starboard bank at std? The mechanic told me that without porting it would be pointless to run over 5500 rpm as it will be beyond the powerband.

**flabum1017** · 08-04-2017, 09:12 PM

Originally Posted by racervboat

well GMAFF first of all you member since 2013 with 6 posts and right off you bash s&f and say were full of b/s and we still give you the info your looking for but we s&flyers still help you if you don't like this site take a fing hike buddy. JMTC

He wasn't bashing S&F, he was saying a local shop was bashing S&F..........

**Capt.Insane-o** · 08-04-2017, 09:32 PM

Nothing wrong with wsm pistons either. Stay away from glm and wiseco for your build. A lot of wiseco have been popping up on eBay for cheap but they are older problematic stock.

**gmaff** · 08-05-2017, 04:55 AM

Originally Posted by racervboat

well GMAFF first of all you member since 2013 with 6 posts and right off you bash s&f and say were full of b/s and we still give you the info your looking for but we s&flyers still help you if you don't like this site take a fing hike buddy. JMTC

Read my post, Please don't misunderstand. I never bashed you guys, It was the boat shop that bashed you. When I told them I learned this stuff from you they told me that anything you read on Scream & Fly is B.S. and that it would not work! I not only believe you I took your advice from the start and did it and I'm sure it will work great! I put that in the title to get your attention! Please read this thread from the top.

Gary

**gmaff** · 08-05-2017, 05:33 AM

I looked at my intake behind the carbs to see why only the middle piston on the port side burned. Also, why is the whole port bank is worn out of spec. while the whole starboard bank is okay. I can see fuel staining behind all the starboard throttle bores while the port throttle bores are clean. This is troubling as how can a whole bank be leaner than the other with factory jetting (I need to check the jets). Could this be a fuel pressure problem? Sure don't want a relapse!

Gary

P.S Those "Boat Shop" guys are all in a click and run fast 90mph+ past my place every weekend. I plan to put this motor on my Shadow tunnel and be in their face running at least in the seventies making them eat their words! My Shadow is my slow boat. I have a 19' 1988 Eliminator Daytona in my garage with a 1999 Promax 225 I started putting together 10 years ago that should run with the best of them. I bought the motor new and it has never seen water. After a ride in a STV Euro @100mph I'm afraid to drive it.

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**eli** · 08-06-2017, 12:58 AM

Originally Posted by gmaff

I looked at my intake behind the carbs to see why only the middle piston on the port side burned. Also, why is the whole port bank is worn out of spec. while the whole starboard bank is okay. I can see fuel staining behind all the starboard throttle bores while the port throttle bores are clean. This is troubling as how can a whole bank be leaner than the other with factory jetting (I need to check the jets). Could this be a fuel pressure problem? Sure don't want a relapse!

Gary

P.S Those "Boat Shop" guys are all in a click and run fast 90mph+ past my place every weekend. I plan to put this motor on my Shadow tunnel and be in their face running at least in the seventies making them eat their words! My Shadow is my slow boat. I have a 19' 1988 Eliminator Daytona in my garage with a 1999 Promax 225 I started putting together 10 years ago that should run with the best of them. I bought the motor new and it has never seen water. After a ride in a STV Euro @100mph I'm afraid to drive it.

most boats take some seat time and when your running 90/100 is a area that demand's full attention how the boat is handling, looking at gauges ,jet skis other boats ,wind ,boat waves ,trim etc lots of variables being afraid at that speed could cost you and others

**Chaz** · 08-06-2017, 09:55 AM

Originally Posted by gmaff

Read my post, Please don't misunderstand. I never bashed you guys, It was the boat shop that bashed you. When I told them I learned this stuff from you they told me that anything you read on Scream & Fly is B.S. and that it would not work! I not only believe you I took your advice from the start and did it and I'm sure it will work great! I put that in the title to get your attention! Please read this thread from the top.

Gary

The beauty lye's in the fact that you received 18 good response's before ..

...>

**Ajskennels** · 08-06-2017, 11:03 AM

haha I've watched your youtube vid about the first start in 5 years, nice rig

**phillnjack** · 08-06-2017, 06:22 PM

there is more good engineering advice on this forum that you could ever wish to find in any manuals or books.
Not only the correct way of doing things, but the advice on what to watch for and what not to do.
Plus when so many are professional engineers who specialise in outboard engines both high performance racing and recreational motors
How can a couple of dimwits say such a stupid thing ?
I almost forgot about those here who invent better parts than oem and are always looking for improvements to help in the longevity of engines.

Maybe they are not able to read and dont go on forums and learn new things ? maybe they spend a lot of time rectifying their mistakes ?

If I lived in the usa I would be looking for many of the engine builders on this site to build me a good strong motor, rather than put it in
the hands of people who mock a site like this.

just my thoughts on the topic.

**gmaff** · 08-06-2017, 08:30 PM

When I said afraid, I mean I can't just hit the go pedal I need to have the seat time you mentioned. I have run a 16' Sidewinder at around 60 and learned about chinewalk. I am not sure where to set the jack plate, I run it as high as I can for good bite and max speed but not sure if that's best. Trim on the Eliminator will be tough because I certainly don't want to blow over! This is way I'm building this motor for my Shadow. That boat is a heavier tunnel that should run in the seventies which will help me learn and work my way up to the Eliminator. One thing I learned from racing performance cars is to respect the machine and be very alert.