Needing crank rebuilt, and possibly an idea of what happened?

[factory909]

First time caller, but can some of y'all drop some names of some good crank shops? Its out of a 25HP Suzuki 3 cyl. The top lobe is coming off causing the free machining on the block. The bottom rod is almost too tight to spin. Needing it rebuilt.

[flabum1017]

Get a new motor........... not worth it

[90VIPER]

Google marine crankshaft repair....there's a place in California but it's not cheap

[Capt.Insane-o]

Any place that can do press together snowmobile/jetski/motorcycle cranks. The kits come with new crank pins rods and bearings. I used to do a lot of Yamaha three cylinders a few years ago, it takes some patience at the press and a couple fixtures, screw jacks, v blocks and an indicator.

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

If your dead set on repairing it
http://www.faliconcranks.com/

[factory909]

I've reached out to a few of my racer friends and the suggested Pete Nydahl at Nydahl Crank & Machine. Talked to Pete this morning and he is going to get me squared away.

[DanUmbarger]

Pete is a good guy and does excellent work!!

[DanUmbarger]

That 3 cyl Suzuki is an awesome running motor...LOTS of torque! Just keep the carbs clean ( that' the one problem area with the Mikuni carbs) and run good fuel/good oil with Startron and that motor will run for a long time. If/when you rebuild this motor it's good practice to replace the oil lines and check valves and oil filter. The oil pumps are pretty bullet proof. Also if the engine has been overheated check the thermostat...they have a habit of getting sprung wide open causing a cold running condition.

First time caller, but can some of y'all drop some names of some good crank shops? Its out of a 25HP Suzuki 3 cyl. The top lobe is coming off causing the free machining on the block. The bottom rod is almost too tight to spin. Needing it rebuilt.

[factory909]

That 3 cyl Suzuki is an awesome running motor...LOTS of torque! Just keep the carbs clean ( that' the one problem area with the Mikuni carbs) and run good fuel/good oil with Startron and that motor will run for a long time. If/when you rebuild this motor it's good practice to replace the oil lines and check valves and oil filter. The oil pumps are pretty bullet proof. Also if the engine has been overheated check the thermostat...they have a habit of getting sprung wide open causing a cold running condition.

Thank you Dan. Oiler has been removed. This motor at some point was overheated and ran that way. The skirt on the middle cylinder is scratched up pretty good. The bottom cylinder was getting water on it, which is what prompted for a full tear down. So right out of the gate, she's going to need new base gaskets, new exhaust cover gaskets, possibly bored out, I broke most of the bolts in the exhaust cover, so like 8-9 bolts are going to need to be milled out and re-tapped or install helicoils. Crank is getting rebuilt. The hose that circulates the unburnt mixture from the bottom cylinder up to the top was clogged. Carbs will need to be rebuilt. Someone at some point put Boyesen reeds in, I will leave them in for now. For some reason, I got the feeling after I get all of this stuff done, the lower unit will go out!!!

The starter works though

This was meant to be a duck season motor for here in Arkansas. Now its going to be a from now till spring project. There is a light at the end of the tunnel. I have never been in an engine before, so I am learning all of this stuff as I go, and its quite interesting. It would have been cheaper to pick up another later model Suzuki DT25, but I would rather tear this one down and start from the ground up. I got lucky that there are quite a few tiller racers around my area that can lend their expertise as needed. None of them knew a good crank shop though!

[DanUmbarger]

A local welder has had good luck welding a nut to the broken bolts...heating them up and pulling them out (another problem Suzuki had...crappy bolts which they rectified in the early 90's). I would also replace the crank seals....upper and lower and all the crank seal lips face down. They're concerned with keeping the water out ...not the crank pressure in. Good idea to get a good service manual! Let me know if I can help you at all...I've been a Suzuki dealer since 1979.

Thank you Dan. Oiler has been removed. This motor at some point was overheated and ran that way. The skirt on the middle cylinder is scratched up pretty good. The bottom cylinder was getting water on it, which is what prompted for a full tear down. So right out of the gate, she's going to need new base gaskets, new exhaust cover gaskets, possibly bored out, I broke most of the bolts in the exhaust cover, so like 8-9 bolts are going to need to be milled out and re-tapped or install helicoils. Crank is getting rebuilt. The hose that circulates the unburnt mixture from the bottom cylinder up to the top was clogged. Carbs will need to be rebuilt. Someone at some point put Boyesen reeds in, I will leave them in for now. For some reason, I got the feeling after I get all of this stuff done, the lower unit will go out!!!

The starter works though

This was meant to be a duck season motor for here in Arkansas. Now its going to be a from now till spring project. There is a light at the end of the tunnel. I have never been in an engine before, so I am learning all of this stuff as I go, and its quite interesting. It would have been cheaper to pick up another later model Suzuki DT25, but I would rather tear this one down and start from the ground up. I got lucky that there are quite a few tiller racers around my area that can lend their expertise as needed. None of them knew a good crank shop though!