What to expect using 1983 2.4 Litre 200 hp Finger Port for repowering ?

[Charger RT]

I was lucky enough to pickup a very low hour "minty" condition freshwater only 1983 2.4L 200 hp Finger Port Motor at an estate sale on a 1974 Glasspar 16.5ft.... been in a shed for decades, I bought it for the kiddies to pull Tubes around on.
Verified everything in great shape, 120+/6 etc., so I fed it an impeller for safety, ordered new Reeds/Stuffers from CC and will update the jetting soon.

But as a result of my initial lake 'test' I took with it was on the old 16.5 Ft Glasspar...... which was pretty darn surprising because the thing goes like a scalded ape and was headed north of 55 mph and still climbing in an instant ? YIKES !
I kinda figure this waaaay too much Motor for that Boat to give young'ins for pulling tubes ?

Better that the old fart(me) have some fun ?
So I was thinking about swapping this 2.4L onto my 1990 Astro 18FS which is still in great shape...... and retire my Merc 2.0L 150 hp into tube duty on the Glasspar ?

My question is this:
What kind of speeds am I looking at if I swap the "minty" 2.4L onto my Astro 18FS W/6" jackplate ?
Forgive me for asking......
but that 'stock' 2.4L just was such a monster compared to my 2.0L which I've already Milled Heads and added Reeds many years ago ? now I got the bug.....
Any prop suggestions ?
using a 21P Tempest Plus on the 2.0L which tops around 5400 rpm trimmed..... that Astro is a heavy rig.

[pcrussell50]

Did yours fire up and run like that without even cleaning the carbs? How long had it sat unused?

I’m also re powering an 18 footer which has been using a 2.0/150 for the past eight years, with a 2.4/200 I just bought. Eager to hear what comes from this thread.

My 18 footer with the 2.0/150 from last summer:



-Peter

[25two.stroke]

They were strong motors. Had the same motor on the boat in my signature pic and it did 90 with a 28 chopper. Totally different hull than your astro, but you can still get them going with a coned lower and surfacing prop. Handfull to drive.

[Charger RT]

Did yours fire up and run like that without even cleaning the carbs? How long had it sat unused?

I’m also re powering an 18 footer which has been using a 2.0/150 for the past eight years, with a 2.4/200 I just bought. Eager to hear what comes from this thread.

My 18 footer with the 2.0/150 from last summer:



-Peter

20+ years give or take ?
Yeah it protested for a few minutes and only seemed to be firing on 3-4 holes..... had to give it just a teensie bit of throttle to stay ~900 rpm idle but eventually all six started hitting and it was fine.
Couldn't throttle it on muffs so off to the lake..... same protested a bit but then fine, up on plane.
Eventually I got on it a bit and scared the shiat outa me..... things a frigg'in rocket ! never did see where it would finish at but was sailing right past 55 mph and climbing fast on that old tub.

Good look'in Boat you got there !
What year 200 did you find ?
I think we're both in for an awakening from what I saw with this 200 ?
I mean I've milled my 2.0L 150 Heads to 145 psi, done Reeds, etc. and to be honest...... the 200 on that old 16.5 Ft Glasspar would trounce my 2.0L on my Astro.... NO comparison, and I think that old Glasspar is fairly porky ? felt heavy behind my Truck anyways ?

[pcrussell50]

Great story! Love it. And jealous too.

My 2.4/200 appears to be a late 1990 block, 11-13-90 build date, with single piece heads, BUT probably with 1983 intake and carbs and other dressing. I don't have it installed yet. I mostly got it because my 2.0, which otherwise runs well, but with the top two cylinders a bit tired, wouldn't quite pull me out of the water on one ski. That and I have come to like this family of motors, and if you already have a 2.0, you need a 2.4 to complete the collection.

Better picture of the boat it's going on, (HATE that the UBB software can't tell which way the picture is supposed to go, AND doesn't let you fix it):
Attachment 508606

Nowhere near as cherry as yours. Just a work-a-day motor AFAICT.



-Peter

[rgsauger]

Yo Peter. If you have not already, make immediate plans to get rid of the water cooled voltage regulator. The things will literally catch on fire and burn your motor down. Been there done that

[pcrussell50]

Didn’t even know about this, but I’m down. Thanks for the heads up. Can I just use the VR off of my 2.0?

-Peter

[rgsauger]

If you switch down to a 16 amp flywheel and stater, then the answer is yes. If you keep the 40 amp, there has been a debate about running a pair of 20 amp regulator rectifier‘s in parallel. I did that for a while. Then swapped down to the 16. The water cooled ones are literally dangerous. I’ll tell you the story sometime…. Let’s just say that when you burn through 2 1/2 fire extinguishers and the son of a bitch keeps lighting on fire, things can get very “tight“!

[faztbullet]

The 200 doesnt have a water cooled rect/reg

[rgsauger]

The 200 doesnt have a water cooled rect/reg

. 1988-1990 or so did. I’ll never forget mine trying to burn my rig down. Was for a few years on 40 amp setups

but you’re right in that mine doesn’t have one…any more!

[pcrussell50]

If you switch down to a 16 amp flywheel and stater, then the answer is yes. If you keep the 40 amp, there has been a debate about running a pair of 20 amp regulator rectifier‘s in parallel. I did that for a while. Then swapped down to the 16. The water cooled ones are literally dangerous. I’ll tell you the story sometime…. Let’s just say that when you burn through 2 1/2 fire extinguishers and the son of a bitch keeps lighting on fire, things can get very “tight“!

As usual, your helpful info is spawning new questions... Questions about whether this is really a 40A system...

First, while this is a November 1990 short block, the rest of the "dressing" is I think 1983 or so. The flywheel looks just like the typical 1 1/2 inch thick gray-green flywheel that my two mid-80's 2.0's have.

The flywheel from my 2.4/200:


Also, I can't for the life of me find any electrical component that has access to water? :shrugs:
This is the 2.4, but Here's where the rectifier on my two 2.0's goes. You can see the part of the T where the water pressure hose went:


Is it possible that some marine shop replaced the '80's 2.4/200 short block with a late 1990 short block, and just retrofitted the 16A gear from mid-80's?

-Peter

[rgsauger]

If you have the grey green one, you might already have 16 amp setup. Take a pic between your heads of the exhaust divider. That’s where the water cooled one mounts.

[bullet123]

Water cooled regulator is behind coils, between heads. Bolted to divider plate. Divider has a rectangle cut out of it for the regulator to mount in.

[tlwjkw]

As usual, your helpful info is spawning new questions... Questions about whether this is really a 40A system...

First, while this is a November 1990 short block, the rest of the "dressing" is I think 1983 or so. The flywheel looks just like the typical 1 1/2 inch thick gray-green flywheel that my two mid-80's 2.0's have.

The flywheel from my 2.4/200:


Also, I can't for the life of me find any electrical component that has access to water? :shrugs:
This is the 2.4, but Here's where the rectifier on my two 2.0's goes. You can see the part of the T where the water pressure hose went:


Is it possible that some marine shop replaced the '80's 2.4/200 short block with a late 1990 short block, and just retrofitted the 16A gear from mid-80's?

-Peter

we already figured out ALL tha bolt on's are earlier model stuff including all tha electrics... it's a 16 amp system so you can forget tha 40 amp junk.. tha rectifier (yellows and red wires) is mounted above tha switch boxes and tha regulator (red, anda yellow) is on top, rear of tha block.............