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Thread: Help with 1975 Johnson 115
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11-22-2021, 09:53 PM #15000 RPM
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Help with 1975 Johnson 115 Trim and Tilt
I bought this motor but it needs work. The first thing I want to check is whether the trim/tilt works. It is the old style with external cannister. The motor has brown/red/green wires running from it - not black, blue, green. Perhaps has been changed in the past (see photo)? Is there an easy way to work out which is the ground wire? I checked the 3 wires with a multimeter and all three have continuity with the cannister casing so no help there.
From reading the manual, I understand that these trim motors use an external solenoid. Where are these normally mounted?
I do not have this part and will need to buy one. Should I buy the correct aftermarket solenoid or will any suitably rated relay work? From memory the manual said it draws 40-45amps.
Last edited by Gilera; 11-25-2021 at 03:35 PM.
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11-23-2021, 03:40 AM #25000 RPM
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I just checked the resistance between the 3 wires.
Brown-Red 3300 ohm
Red-Green 3300 ohm
Green-Brown 0 ohm.
Wouldn't that indicate that Red is negative? Seems very strange that someone would wire it like that.
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11-23-2021, 11:04 AM #3
green brown will be ground, the other two, one will be up and the other down.
Paul V.
1987 Hydrostream Viper - 1973 V4 Evinrude 135 Crossflow "Shiny Motor"
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11-23-2021, 12:03 PM #4
Ford solenoids work well. Cheap and very available. Should be able to find a location on the motor to mount. May need to cobble up a bracket of some sort. Good luck.
RockTeam Junk
No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.
"Screamin Heathen"
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11-23-2021, 02:06 PM #55000 RPM
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Sorry I might not have been clear in my post. There is no green brown wire, there is a green wire, a brown wire and a red wire. The resistances listed were between the various combinations. There was no resistance between the green and brown wires. This would make me think that connecting these two up to a battery would short it out.
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11-23-2021, 02:48 PM #6
There should be o resistance between any of the 3 wires and ground.
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11-23-2021, 02:57 PM #7
I know its old but it should be a standard 3 wire series -wound field motor, so 1 wire will be a common with a left and right hand field windings going to the other wires so there should be resistance between all combinations.
Last edited by H2OPERF; 11-23-2021 at 03:59 PM.
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11-23-2021, 03:03 PM #85000 RPM
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I just rechecked and there definitely isnt. In my first post when I said there was I had my multimeter on the high scale and didnt realise. When testing between cannister housing and each wire I get 0ohms for the red but just over 3000ohm for the green and the brown. 0 ohms when measuring between green and brown wires. Perhaps an issue with the motor?
Last edited by Gilera; 11-23-2021 at 03:09 PM.
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11-23-2021, 03:59 PM #9
Each to R seems like it would be a good number since they are the same but then you should be able To read back thru the field coils between the G-B , if it has an overload you would think its on the common but it is old, lol
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11-23-2021, 04:09 PM #10
3000Ohm seems seems high so it may be a shunt type and im not sure off the top of my head how they are wired inside, i know there are a few diff ways it can be done but i think you still should be able to read thru the fields anyway... all the modern merc 3 wire type are series wound and the resistance is much less. Sorry... i will do some looking see what i can find.
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11-23-2021, 04:35 PM #11
Try tapping on the motor see if the resistance changes? The brushes could be stuck/dirty giving such a high resistance.. Has to be a series motor
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11-24-2021, 04:47 PM #125000 RPM
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I tried tapping it with a mallet but it didn't change the resistance. I'm trying to work out if I can do damage to this type of motor if I connect the wires incorrectly. I don't want to damage the motor in the process of testing. I could try a 30a fuse in-line with the positive. It may pop the fuse but if I were to hear the motor move a bit I'd know i'm on to a winner. Other option I guess is to try to take the top off the cannister and look at the field assy. Not sure how hard it is to get to but the exploded diagram below makes it look like I should be able to see pretty easily if I take the cap off. The field assy is part 82 in the pic. Part 75 is the brush holder assy but assume the wires go though the hole in the middle. I found a pic on the internet for the genuine field assy - see below. I'm assuming the wire that is opposite the other two with the black insulation would be the ground. Have no idea how to get the nyloc nuts off that hold the cap on though as there is zero clearance to get a spanner or socket on them and the studs don't extend through the bottom so it look like the nuts have to come off.
Last edited by Gilera; 11-24-2021 at 04:49 PM.
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11-25-2021, 04:44 AM #135000 RPM
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11-25-2021, 11:38 AM #14
The wire opposite the 2 will go to one brush in the cap... the wire from the other brush will be the ground, then the 2 field wires will be your up and down..
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11-25-2021, 04:36 PM #155000 RPM
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Thanks. I'll give it all a clean up and give it a try. I'm wondering what would cause the fluid to get up into the motor housing and be trapped up there. There doesn't seem to be any seal to stop this where the shaft of the armature goes down into the pump. The result of overfilling? Perhaps the motor lying on its side? If the motor ends up working then I guess i'll have to bleed to system and replace the fluid. Topping up fluid seems easy as there is a fill hole but cannot find any info on easiest way to drain these units. Do i need to disconnect the SS line coming from the pump?
Last edited by Gilera; 11-25-2021 at 11:32 PM.
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