1979 Viking build

[89LASER]

I think the 5200 states on the tube cures to touch in 4-6 hours, cures in 24 hours. If you have a towel or something you wiped your hands with, use that as a reference.

[LakeFever]

it does say on the tube but it’s rather basic. It says >48 hrs. It’s still tacky. Going to leave it until Saturday and hopefully it’s tacky enough not to stick to us so we can get back to work. Funny thing I’ve been using this stuff for many years just never really paid attention to how long it took to cure. Under bolts, screws and whatnot what does it matter?

[LakeFever]

We tied in the knees to the upper stringers and began tabbing the deck onto the hull with 1708 strips 10” long with 2” overlap. Was going great but ran out of resin or we would have wrapped that up today. Once we get the cap fully tied in from below we are going to take a break for Christmas. I just realized I didn’t take any pics today

[VkingMike]

Just found this build thread, I love the pictures and info. I'll be needing all this when I am ready to start coring and glassing

[XstreamVking]

VKINGMIKE, start a build thread when you get around to beginning yours. Lots of guys here to help...

[LakeFever]

I wouldn’t have a tenth as good of a build without the guidance and support from you guys. There’s some other great threads to reference mike, Tnels thread is awesome and sooo informative. Xstream has links in his sig and has been a stellar guide for me and many others on laying glass. Outasite also a great build thread. There’s many more but those are recent and what came to mind.

I’m getting itchy to get back on this thing to bring it home. Soon I hope

[LakeFever]

I meant to ask is one 4” tab of 1708 enough to bond the cap down?

[tnelsmn]

I meant to ask is one 4” tab of 1708 enough to bond the cap down?

Thats all I did...
I figure that was better that what the factory did.

[LakeFever]

It seems very strong but this is one of those guess spots because I didn’t cut the deck off I don’t have any reference to go on. The 5200 seems quite strong on its own in fact. Anyways thanks Tony I’ll stick with one and done too

[tnelsmn]

From what I could see on mine was the factory threw in some CSM and called it good. That and they used resin in the seam for the glue.

[LakeFever]

Back at it again today. Finished tying in the deck to the hull as far as I could get. I reached about 16”
away from the bow eye. I have a younger thin friend coming by tomorrow to help reach the rest. We also tied in the bottom of the splashwell and the inside of the knees. Makes for four more layers of 1708 over the lower engine bolt holes. I’ve lost count now but that puts us around ten layers thick. I hope that’s enough for the coosa. Tomorrow we will tie in the top of the splashwell and get some glass over the dash as well. Then it might just be time to flip it over

[Zammit_Racing]

Looks good! his is the part I’m not looking forward too since the voodoo is real small and tight won’t be fun..

Hydrostream Voodoo Rebuild/Restoration
Instagram: http://instagram.com/zammit_racing/
Rebuild: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...ld-restoration
Videos: https://youtube.com/channel/UCGy7j7CoScBfMiWNNYzgruA

[bbezok]

Can't imagine that's going to be fun for your friend......

[VkingMike]

Back at it again today. Finished tying in the deck to the hull as far as I could get. I reached about 16”
away from the bow eye. I have a younger thin friend coming by tomorrow to help reach the rest. We also tied in the bottom of the splashwell and the inside of the knees. Makes for four more layers of 1708 over the lower engine bolt holes. I’ve lost count now but that puts us around ten layers thick. I hope that’s enough for the coosa. Tomorrow we will tie in the top of the splashwell and get some glass over the dash as well. Then it might just be time to flip it over

I've dreaded crawling up there to attempt to replace the old bow eye glassing. I know for a fact, I cannot fit up there lol

[bbezok]

Not many can........need Orangatang arms...