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Thread: Project - Ultimate Gambler
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06-05-2024, 07:51 AM #16
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Appreciate you raising the point, it is approaching the point of hull needing to sit in a jig.. The hull is actually really solid so far. Not flimsy at all.
The project has blown past every contingency it could.. whole foam being wet and now I am concerned stringers are going to need to be done..
The stringers are solid, pass a hammer test, and i cannot see any rot, but I think with how saturated the foam is, it must have gotten to the stringers. One thing I cannot tell is if it has a core.. it seems like solid glass, need to get the foam out and fully assess.
Adjusted plan is now:
Grind & Cut out remaining liner
Remove all foam
Assess stringers & core. if need replaced:
Build jig, set hull on jig
Any reference thread with pics you'd recommend for jig design? Thank youLast edited by NeedOne; 06-05-2024 at 07:54 AM.
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Instigator liked this post
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06-05-2024, 06:09 PM #17
Yep
Keep cutting until all the wet is out or you’re wasting your time.
Here’s a test for the hull rigidity.
Easy test it to grab a corner at the transom and try to lift the hull off the trailer.
Watch the hull forward of you.
Try the other side.
If you don’t see it flexing, take a bottle Jack w/a block of wood and lift one of those same corners off the trailer.
As it it starts to lift, watch the opposite side.
If it don’t move, you have work to doI'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.
I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.
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06-07-2024, 07:30 AM #18
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Well it passes the rigidity test as you describe instigator, nice simple test method, thank you.
But I still have concerns for it being wet... man i hope it doesnt need stringers and core.... will know soon
Prepped the cut line for the rest of the liner yesterday after work. The original bond line is not able to be cut loose(essentially splitting the rivet lip) so the cut will go about 2 inches inboard of that, on the flat. I ground up the lip and down the wall so when re-glassing the seam it will have an S-crossection, not just a narrow flat strip.
That has a dual purpose of backing & sealing the rivet holes on the inside too, then they can be filled from the outside
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06-18-2024, 07:41 AM #19
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Remainder of the liner does not want to come out.. having to grind a lot more to prep for cutting along the top of the bulkhead/ footrest.
It is slow going due to back pain from a car wreck last fall.. can only do about 15 mins of grinding at a time... once the liner is out, project should speed up.
I've come to terms with doing the stringers, If it does end up needing replaced, will remove all wood and go full composite
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06-18-2024, 07:55 AM #20
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I always liked how low the seating position is, gonna expand on that and make it like sitting in a sports car...
The oem hot foot position made it where your knee is bent up under the console. Since I have to cut the footrest now, going to create a recess and shift hotfoot mounting.
Going to have new seat bottoms made, 1" thick rather than current 2.5", get the seating max-low. Sounds minor but it is that close to being tucked behind the console or feeling like you're hanging out of it.
A final touch, probably after back on water.. want to make custom black lexan wind screens mounted to the grab rails, mocked after later model gamblers, but not as big, maybe 3 or 4 inches tall.Last edited by NeedOne; 06-18-2024 at 08:47 AM.
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