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07-13-2023, 05:45 PM #1
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The square fuel pump, pros and cons
Beginning to wrap up readying a 2.4/200 for service. Going through pretty much everything.
Anyway it’s a late 1990 build and has the square fuel pump. I have two other motors in family both mid-eighties xr2’s.
Anyway, I plan to open it up and clean/inspect, re gasket. Any tricks or is it pretty straightforward. The manual has some check valves with a hokey sounding installation process. Do you have to change them with every servicing? Or just if they look leaky or damaged?
Also, what are the pros and cons? Are they better worse or about the same as the old “figure-eight” pumps?
Thoughts?
-PeterLast edited by pcrussell50; 07-13-2023 at 06:29 PM.
"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
18’ Bahner bow rider, 2.4/200
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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07-13-2023, 06:55 PM #2
Screaming And Flying!
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They are easy, just take your time and do it on a clean surface. Pay attention to the valves and how they are placed. Take it apart and place it in order to make it foolproof.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, ff block 2.5 w/a 28p chopper
Ain't it great to have papa TRUMP back at the helm?
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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07-13-2023, 08:19 PM #3
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"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
18’ Bahner bow rider, 2.4/200
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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07-17-2023, 10:46 AM #4
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So, I changed only the gaskets and diaphragms.
The springs and plungers looked fine.
The check valves looked fine.
Is this what you guys do?
-Peter"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
18’ Bahner bow rider, 2.4/200
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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07-19-2023, 06:38 PM #5
Screaming And Flying!
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Old type dia. would blow if the engine sneezed. The new square ones are better to me. I usually go thru the whole thing and replace all the parts. You may get lucky with only gaskets.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, ff block 2.5 w/a 28p chopper
Ain't it great to have papa TRUMP back at the helm?
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
-
pcrussell50 liked this post
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07-22-2023, 10:53 AM #6
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"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
18’ Bahner bow rider, 2.4/200
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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07-22-2023, 11:29 AM #7
The check valves are the most common thing that goes bad in there. The plastic cups over time and then the check valves dont check. I always change them. Even if they look ok I change them. Many times I have an engine running out of gas at idle and I just change those check valves and the problem is solved. Did one yesterday and one on Tuesday.
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07-22-2023, 11:53 AM #8
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Most fun is doing it on the water..........
.......
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07-22-2023, 01:36 PM #9
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