twister - noisy

[Spreadeagle]

Red stripe twister/ssm

any idea on how to quiet it up - the darn neighbors are raisin a stink

I was thinking of blocking the above water exhaust openings and plumbing the water dump from the exhaust log into the plate that will be blocking the rear opening. I'm thinking this will route wet exhaust out of the ssm exhaust snout

thanks
Gary

[LakeRacer99]

Gary, I can help you out...bring it down here and trade it for a 1500XS, they are quieter...I can hook you up.
Sorry I can't be of more help.

[Spreadeagle]

I've got an xs - I just thought this twister would be more period correct for this boat. I didnt think the neighbors would be such whiners.

[Mark75H]

Show us some pictures .... a Twister should have had the exhaust coming out below the cav plate to begin with ..... do you have a "Cow Bell" Twister?

[SportJ-US-1]

I thought the reason for the Twister was all the loud, Gawd awlful noise they made. I would suspect a loss of performance with the plugged up exhaust.

[Raceman]

The Twister (red stripe) and Twister 1 (blue stripe) have similar exhausts. The reason they're both so loud is because even though the exhaust does re enter the side of the mid section when it exits the log, all this is dry. If you'll notice, the early red ones had a 3/4" hose at the top of the log that dumped most of the water and the later ones and all the blues (not sure exactly when the change was made) had a similar large dump from the bottom of the log. I think you'd find that if you directed all this water back in the slotted opening in the mid that it would quieten it significantly. I've got several of em, and I've never tried it, but it'd have to work. A champ motor, even with it's extra displacement and more open exhaust is a LOT quieter, and the only difference is the water.

Incidentally, I don't know which gearcase you're running. Someone who I recognize as being very knowledgeable on the early Twisters (he worked at Lake X back then) has always said every one of em were factory fitted with the MC1 Speedmaster, and all of em we see today with SSM's were retro fitted. If you do in fact have the MC1, I think you'll find that plugging the slot in the rear of the housing wouldn't effect performance, but only helps get the boat on top. Some of the earlier SSM's had fairly large exhause openings and I'd think they'd be adequate also, but the last design SSM is fairly restrictive there.

If you'r neighbors keep bitchin', I'll bring my twin engine stacker boat and make a pass and they'll be damn glad to have you back.

[LakeRacer99]

If you'r neighbors keep bitchin', I'll bring my twin engine stacker boat and make a pass and they'll be damn glad to have you back.

Gary...tell him your neighbors are still bitchin', we need some video footage of that Kitson/Stacker running...and video of your neighbor's faces when RM fired it up would be great also.

[Spreadeagle]

mine dumps the water out the bottom. I'll just plumb it back into the mid. I couldn't believe how loud it is. I cant imagine what one with stacks would be like.

If ya ask me the darn wave runners are for more anoying than a little screamin 6 cyl.

[willabee]

There will be a very noticable drop in performance if you block the opening in the driveshaft housing. I wonder what you would sound like if you only routed the exhaust log water into that same opening. Would be very easy and inexpensive to try to see if that would be enough to satisfy the whinners

Red stripe twister/ssm

any idea on how to quiet it up - the darn neighbors are raisin a stink

I was thinking of blocking the above water exhaust openings and plumbing the water dump from the exhaust log into the plate that will be blocking the rear opening. I'm thinking this will route wet exhaust out of the ssm exhaust snout

thanks
Gary

[Raceman]

There will be a very noticable drop in performance if you block the opening in the driveshaft housing. I wonder what you would sound like if you only routed the exhaust log water into that same opening. Would be very easy and inexpensive to try to see if that would be enough to satisfy the whinners

I'm really curious what you base that statement on. I'll admit that I haven't ever blocked the opening in a Twister/Twister 1 mid, BUT I've run the same modified 260 V6 powerhead on both a std, non relieved mid, a factory relieved mid, and an offshore mid with the snout on the back and there was no measurable difference in performance. Based on that, and especially with the opening in an MC1 gearcase, together with the gearcase adapters from mid to lower that in most cases have exhaust relief also, I just have a hard time believing it'll choke it enough to make a measurable difference. Just like with the V6's, I think the exhaust tuning is pretty much all over with once it leaves the chest (exhaust log in this case) and I can't believe there's enough restriction down there to make any measurable difference. I ain't sayin' it for fact, but it shore' seems logical to me. The big drawback, like I already said is, the early Twisters are dogs down low, especially with Speedmasters, and pluggin' the hole might make gettin' the boat on top a challenge, especially if it's on a V Bottom.

[willabee]

The only time I remember using the MC1 speedmasters was at Parker on the 1400 Morgan carbed C6. When we started racing with that engine, the SSM units started failing at a very high rate. Some internal redesign was required to keep it together with the new power. That was the year of " The Flying Circus". The MC1 units held up, but made those single engine tunnels behave much differently than our drivers were used to. I think we had 10 or 12 boats at that race, and between practice and the race, only 2 of them did not blow over. Everyone was in a big hurry to get the redesigned SSM back. I mention this because I don't think any of the performance outboards were sold with MC1 speedmasters.
[/QUOTE]

[mwr_1]

The red stripe twister was called Twister I and the blue was Twister II. I had one that was a dog out of the hole so I made a hinged flap that would close off the exhaust until I got up and running then I would open the flap. I connected a cable (like an old choke cable) to the hinged part on the motor and had the pull on the side of the seat (a 15' Allison). It helped come out of the hole a lot and by opening it up once running I think it helped some to open the exhause but it would keep it quiter with the exhaust closed.

[Spreadeagle]

Ive got it set up an a Carlson Challenger with the top of the ssm torpedo set even with the bottom. the thing will jump up on plane. I'll try to get some pictures posted

[willabee]

It is based on the initial testing we did on the silo and cowbell exhaust systems. Intially, the cowbell performed much better than the silo. We used same boat,same prop ,same driver (Hering),etc. The only difference was how the exhaust was routed. The cowbell was into the log and out of the two bells at the bottom of the log. The silo was into the log, into the driveshaft housing and out of the SSM gearcase. One day we took a wholesaw and drilled an approximate inch and one-half hole in the rear of the DSH. That silo immediately started performing like the cowbell. A couple of smaller holes helped some more. One of the guys responsible for procuring the parts to build these engines said the most economic way to achieve what we were looking for was to machine a rectangular slot into the housings that were already designed, so that is what we did.

When we started working with Dr. Morgan on the C6, the day came when I drilled that same hole in his DSH and that engine improved immediately.

I'm really curious what you base that statement on. I'll admit that I haven't ever blocked the opening in a Twister/Twister 1 mid, BUT I've run the same modified 260 V6 powerhead on both a std, non relieved mid, a factory relieved mid, and an offshore mid with the snout on the back and there was no measurable difference in performance. Based on that, and especially with the opening in an MC1 gearcase, together with the gearcase adapters from mid to lower that in most cases have exhaust relief also, I just have a hard time believing it'll choke it enough to make a measurable difference. Just like with the V6's, I think the exhaust tuning is pretty much all over with once it leaves the chest (exhaust log in this case) and I can't believe there's enough restriction down there to make any measurable difference. I ain't sayin' it for fact, but it shore' seems logical to me. The big drawback, like I already said is, the early Twisters are dogs down low, especially with Speedmasters, and pluggin' the hole might make gettin' the boat on top a challenge, especially if it's on a V Bottom.

[willabee]

F.Y.I. - The red stripe was Twister and the blue was Twister I - the hinged flap is an interesting idea

The red stripe twister was called Twister I and the blue was Twister II. I had one that was a dog out of the hole so I made a hinged flap that would close off the exhaust until I got up and running then I would open the flap. I connected a cable (like an old choke cable) to the hinged part on the motor and had the pull on the side of the seat (a 15' Allison). It helped come out of the hole a lot and by opening it up once running I think it helped some to open the exhause but it would keep it quiter with the exhaust closed.