Water Spots?

**johnp** · 04-06-2005, 07:08 PM

I have an Eliminator Daytona, it has no cleats for tie ups on the bow so I have been using the suction cup attached fenders for rafting and protection from docks etc. The suction cups have left marks on the bow much like the rings on the dining table from a cold beer put there without a napkin. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get them off? I have tried light buffing, compound etc. I don't want to get too aggressive if I don't have to. I'll post a picture soon.

**SUPAJAY** · 04-06-2005, 07:15 PM

Try Vertglass... Its by far the best gelcoat restoration product out there, If that doesnt work try a light wet sand and that should do the trick.

**johnp** · 04-06-2005, 07:22 PM

where do I get it?

**Barefoot Bob** · 04-06-2005, 07:48 PM

I wouldnt do the Vertglass just yet. So, the way it sounds you do have a buffer and you were probably using a wool pad right?

Well if that didnt take it out I would use some 1800 or 2000 grit and lightly rub it wet and then buff to se if its gone. I have some great finish cut and polish to aply if you want to try it.

**johnp** · 04-06-2005, 08:24 PM

I'll try it, how can I get it?

**Barefoot Bob** · 04-07-2005, 08:23 AM

Give me a call at 507-359-1197

**pyro** · 04-07-2005, 08:47 AM

The first thing you should always try for water spots is Lime-A-Way, CLR, or The Works. Water spots consist of all the minerals from lakewater left-over after the water evaporates, like Calcium, Iron, etc. These acidic household cleaners are the easiest way to remove water spots, since they simply dissolve the Calcium spots. Just spray and wipe. Buffing often takes more effort, because these mineral spots are well-bonded and very hard. If the suction cups have left impressions in the finish from prolanged contact, you will probably have to sand with 2000, then buff & glaze, to level out the imperfections.

**ken medendorp** · 04-07-2005, 09:29 AM

I use white viniger ,mix 50/50 with water works great

**pyro** · 04-07-2005, 10:06 AM

Vinegar is OK, but it's a little on the weak side, it's only bottled at 6% or 10% strength, if I remember right. Stronger acid cleaners are harmless to gelcoat, just be careful you don't spray them in other places (on the jackplate, trailer metal, etc.) Usually the rule is to use the weakest, gentlest cleaner needed to get the job done, so vinegar is a good place to start, it's also very inexpensive!

A nice smooth, polished, and WAXED surface will resist water spot adhesion. I don't even wipe my boat off after every trip out. Instead, I wash, polish and wax it real good twice during the summer, and the wax keeps the water spots from sticking in between. Once a water spot dries, water will continue to "stick" to the same spot, then when that drop dries, it makes the spot more visible. Sometimes I'll wipe off the boat with a wet rag while I'm parked at the sandbar, just to discourage spots from sticking. Just a lazy wiping with lakewater can rinse away these small deposits before they become visible spots. A waxed finish makes the water run off the surface instead of sticking and drying.

**johnp** · 04-08-2005, 07:41 PM

here are the pictures, i will try the suggestions soon. note the rings and spots

**pyro** · 04-08-2005, 08:31 PM

Factory gelcoat seems to tolerate things like covers and suction cups. I am assuming that your boat is painted or re-finished in some way. These finishes are not necessarily rock-hard like gelcoat. Anything left in contact may leave an impression in the finish. The finish may also become discolored, which is another possibility in your case. If so, there's not much you can do about it. It might not be "water spots" like I described above, but worse yet, some kind of finish damage.

Put AWAY that metal can of old-school Dupont rubbing compound. THAT stuff is harsh as hell, the equilavent of 400 grit, I'm familiar with it. Nasty stuff, replace it with something new like 3M liquid compound. Use a rotary buffer at a low speed, follow up with some fine-cut swirl remover of some kind (your can of TW white polishing compound in the picture may suffice for this purpose), and then re-wax. Maybe it will work through the damaged clearcoat surface. Good luck.

**chynewalkr** · 04-08-2005, 08:41 PM

has anyone else tryed a porter cable 7424 orbital buffer?

I HIGHLY recommend this tool to anyone if you are half as anal about vehicle finishes as i am. i cant believe i wasted so much time rubbing by hand after high speed rotary buffing in the past! it removes swirl marks and shines the finish better than any other buffing tool ive ever tried.

**Bruster** · 04-08-2005, 08:59 PM

The P/C orbital buffer is a "must have" at my house. It'll polish the black cars with out swirl marks and makes waxing super fast. I also used it on this...
http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...ad.php?t=80261

**Forkin' Crazy** · 04-08-2005, 10:56 PM

I use a Milwalkee commercial buffer. B&D makes one that works too. I agree with Pyro, stay away from #7 compound and use some of the newer light compounds. I use two different synthetic compounds, and then a swirl remover and then wax. I also use foam pads instead of wool (less swirl marks), one for each product.

If you were using clear suction cups, they might have magnified the sun's affects and messed up the clear abit.

**Barefoot Bob** · 04-10-2005, 09:57 AM

They are all correct, the new products out there have come a long way and you will want to use a foam pad to buff. All the products are right here to do it right. My cousin owns this company and I can send you everything at a better price than listed.
http://www.wizardsproducts.com/
Like I said earlier, give me a call and I will help you out...507-359-1197

User Tag List

Thread: Water Spots?

Thread Tools

Display

Water Spots?

waterspots

waterspots

pictures

Posting Permissions