Gel-coat question

**BenKeith** · 11-14-2001, 06:37 PM

I know this has nothing to do with performance but several of ya'll seem to really know you stuff so I felt this was a good place to ask. Besides, a shiny boat with a big motor looks like it will go faster.

I want to sand and recoat the clear gel-coat on my Stratos bass boat. It's getting thin in several places and starting to look dingey. I've worked with glass but never used gelcoat. I have a Sharp model 75 siphon feed and a Sharp model 775 pressure feed gun with 2qt can. Will either of these work for spraying clear gel-coat. I feel sure the 75 won't work if the stuff is thick but hoping the 775 will. Or does it take a special contraption to spray this stuff. I've sprayed a number of cars and pretty good with a spray gun. Are there any secrets to spraying this stuff, like does it sag easily, and how long between coats.

Next, where is a good place to get clear gel-coat

**84exciter** · 11-14-2001, 06:59 PM

screw the gelcoat,paint is alot easier.did my checkmate for under $200.1000 grit wet,wipe down good and spray.next day put everything back on.done

**dan** · 11-14-2001, 07:56 PM

I have sprayed gelcoat with a pressure pot. Your gun has a fluid needle and tip sized for paint, probably a 1.4 or 1.5, look on the end cap tip. You'll have to get the fluid needle and cap sized for gelcoat. The gun manufacturer or whoever can supply you with parts can tell you what size will work in your gun. Practice on some plywood to get the pressure and spray pattern worked out. It will go on thick with a lot of orange peel. You will need to block sand it buff it and final polish it. Painting is easier because you end up with a flatter finish that requires less time to sand, buff and polish. For paint I'd use Transtar 3.5 VOC the best they make. It's 54% solids and very resistant to yellowing. Three coats should be 15 mils thick and cures hard pretty fast, if you can put it in the sun probably three or four days. Wet sand it with 2000 buff and polish after 12-16 hours or before you put it in the sun.

**all8up** · 11-14-2001, 08:26 PM

I would just use a good automitive type clear coat like dupont V7500, 2 or 3 coats would be plenty. which would give you several more years of trouble free use. You could also tint the clear, to help bring back the original color if necessary. Forget the buffing, I would try to keep that to a minimum. If you get the clear layed out right, you won't need to buff it at all.

**BarryStrawn** · 11-14-2001, 08:47 PM

Keith - Sharpe has a pretty good website and message board. I'd bet Dr. Gun can help you figure out your options.

http://www.sharpe1.com/cgi-bin/ubb/U...i?action=intro

**TTriton** · 11-14-2001, 09:07 PM

it can be a pain in the butt to sparay and you won't get the gloss you want with out additives. I prefer a quality paint. It is much easyer to spray and to work with. If you do spray gelcoat there is a additive that works fairly well but I forgot the name of it. Even with the additive it still took a good bit of buffing to get the gloss that my customer wanted.

**Scream And Fly** · 11-14-2001, 09:41 PM

Ben,

I could be wrong, but I'm willing to bet that your hull has automotive clearcoat on it from the factory. You might want to double-check with the factory...

Greg

**BenKeith** · 11-14-2001, 10:02 PM

Hey, I'm easily convenced. I was not looking forward to having to deal with that stuff anyway. I just didn't know a good clear coat would hold up.

There's no way I'm gonna mess with gel-coat since a good clear will work

Thanks a bunch.

**TTriton** · 11-14-2001, 10:06 PM

good luck with the job..

11-14-2001, 10:25 PM

If it is clear coat gel, all you have to do is scuff it up and put clear gel right over it, spray it, hell you can use a paint brush.

All the scratches will disappear.

If your putting clear on gel, that clear IS GEL and it is very easy to add coverage.

Usepaint on paint, gel on gel.

**FCnLa** · 11-14-2001, 11:04 PM

I usually have it on my toast!

Mold yes, top coat, NO!!! Unless you use Patch Aid (wax solution and resin) and that is not feasable. Way too much work.

Your boat is probably gel, but like Greg said, check with your manufacture.

If your stuck on a gel type (polyester based), there is a good product called Duratech. Most fiberglass suppliers have or can get this. It is availiable in clear and they also make a primer. It lays down well and responds to buffing well also. Automotive paints are OK, but I would rather boat paint made for boats. AwlGrip, by US Paints is my choice.

Good luck!

**Liqui-Fly** · 11-15-2001, 04:32 PM

You'd better be very careful sanding or else you'll wind up with a silver boat. David

**Raceman** · 11-15-2001, 10:48 PM

I bought a used brown/gold Vector one time and the clearcoat was dead flat and so bleached it felt like sandpaper. A local paint shop sprayed it with clear Imron and it looked like new. Some other people on this board have had good results with other products, but the Imron, although thought to be obsolete technology is excellent on a boat and I've never seen a weekness in it unless it's the danger in being exposed to it during application. One word of caution about gel coat. Some gel coats will never set up properly when exposed to air. These types are the ones that are generally sprayed in molds. I understand there are some spray on coats that can be put on top of them, facilitating hardening, and also some gels of a different type that will air dry, but the point is, if you decide on gel, talk to someone who really knows the characteristics of the product.

**AlaskaStreamin** · 11-16-2001, 12:18 PM

I just sprayed three hulls and a deck lastnight with gelcoat. I'm using a Binks #7 siphon feed with a .064 needle. I use this gun for everything, primers, base coats, clear coats, and gel coat.
Here are a few tricks.

I keep the gelcoat warm (around 75*) get it too warm and you'll be buying a new spray gun.

I use Styrene to thin the gelcoat not acetone. (10% max.)

The stuff is pretty thick but it does spray nice. I crank up the pressure to around 65-70 psi and go for it. Two drops of Cobalt in each quart really kicks it and I can be sanding in an hour.

I don't add surfacing agent to the gel coat (wax), but spray PVA (Poly Vinyl Alcohol) over the top when I'm done. I seem to get a smoother surface this way.

Gel coat is $35.00/gal and Interlux Yacht paint (catalized) is $48.00/qt. I wetsand and polish all my spray jobs so it comes down to price for me.

Good luck on whichever way you go!

**Liqui-Fly** · 11-16-2001, 12:40 PM

How do you know when it's time to spray the PVA over the top. I experimented with Gel Coat for the first time and never reallycame up with a good formula. The temps were low in my garage too. I tried almost everything including dissolving parafin in my styrene. This is supposed to coat the surface as the gel dries underneath. David