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Thread: Re-designing merc cooling
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03-10-2004, 11:31 PM #46
Seajay, that diagram posted by mendo was for a 1990 and up, by the way.
This one is for 89 and under.............Hydro Burke
AE-21
330 HP 2.5 "Monster Marles" Merc
Seebold F1 race boat
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03-10-2004, 11:32 PM #47
This is the 260 diagram.
Figured I'd complete your collection......Hydro Burke
AE-21
330 HP 2.5 "Monster Marles" Merc
Seebold F1 race boat
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03-11-2004, 09:20 AM #48Member
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Thanks for the additional schematics. I am working on an early 80s 2.4 and in comparing it to the schematics I can not find the where the cooling spray is put into the exhaust tubes. Is this cooling spray actually put in with the exhaust gas stream or is it just sparyed on the outside of the tunner/liner? I was expecting to see some small water orifices in the exhaust ports in the adapter plate or something like that but so far I have not found it. SeaJay
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03-11-2004, 05:40 PM #49
They are right here, you can just see the tops of them in the picture.
This was before I welded them up.Hydro Burke
AE-21
330 HP 2.5 "Monster Marles" Merc
Seebold F1 race boat
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03-11-2004, 05:46 PM #50
Any time you want a job doing the tubing in my race boats just let me know.
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03-11-2004, 06:22 PM #51
So John, now that I've told you all the details and explained why I've done things a certain way...............what do you think of the mods I made?
Hydro Burke
AE-21
330 HP 2.5 "Monster Marles" Merc
Seebold F1 race boat
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03-11-2004, 06:52 PM #52
From the research I have done. The popet would have to dump after the heads for it not to over heat.
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03-11-2004, 11:33 PM #53
Have you thought about
trying an extra set of thermos? 4 thermos should flow enough water. Eliminate the poppet so it never opens and use just the 4 thermos to control temp and add on the hot side. Probably won't work, but I thought I'd throw it out to the experts .
Last edited by steve; 03-12-2004 at 01:07 AM.
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03-11-2004, 11:37 PM #54
Thats a good idea. I was going to use a car thermostat and a popet after the water pump.
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03-12-2004, 12:39 AM #55
I was actually thinking about the fact that a V-8 thermostat opening is just under 1" in diameter and it cools a rather large engine with a closed loop cooling system. I'm thinking the merc ones won't have a problem with just cooling 3 cylinders each, and the fact they have an unlimited supply of cool water.
I ran the motor around the lake for approximately an hour straight and it regulated quite well, didn't overheat at all. I stabbed the throttle up close to 7000 rpm for a bit to see too. Only time will tell.............as soon as the ICE gets off the lakes here !!!!!!!
Steve, I don't think blocking the poppet would work. The water has to go somewhere because it's always being pumped or rammed into the system. Pressure would be crazy high. Apparently theres approx 100 psi at 80 mph, or so I've heard.......
Any ideas on how to install an extra thermostat in each head? That DOES sound like a really good idea because of the redundancy factor. Right now if a thermostat sticks closed, things will get real warm, real fast. This is really good hearing from all of you about thisHydro Burke
AE-21
330 HP 2.5 "Monster Marles" Merc
Seebold F1 race boat
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03-12-2004, 09:38 AM #56
I am building a plate that goes under the motor with a popet and car thermostats in it. I did the testing as to how small I could go with dump openings at WOT on a 300 HP and two 3/8 plus the 1/8 washers was it.
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03-12-2004, 09:54 AM #57
excellent tech thread!!
two thumbs up!!
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04-23-2004, 12:29 PM #58
'What up Burke?
You get a chance to heat the thing up yet?
Looking forward to seeing how it works!mendo
MAD SCIENTIST
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04-23-2004, 12:34 PM #59Guest
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Interesting topic...
Diagrams help out... Thanks, Jim.
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04-23-2004, 04:34 PM #60
Theres still a foot and a half of ice on the lakes here............
Should have it in the water sometime mid May.Hydro Burke
AE-21
330 HP 2.5 "Monster Marles" Merc
Seebold F1 race boat