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  1. #1
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    What's the best tool ...

    for cutting the layer of laminate covering balsa core. I could use a chisle but that seems very time consuming. I could also use a Skill saw but am worried about cutting too deep, the laminate is not the flatest so the saw will vary in depth. How about a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel, seems this is small and easy to handle?
    MarkHP>

    1989 Canadian Edition Vista/135 Optimax

  2. #2
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    be very very carefull using a sawzall, or use one of those air cutters with the disc. I dont think a dremel is strong enough and I dont think they make a disc big enough. But you never know, i was thinking of trying mine if I have to do a core. The sawzal is good if your carefull cause it dosnt make much dust. Even a angle grinder with a cutting disc might work.

  3. #3
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    Isn't a Sawzill a reciprocating saw? Do you mean one of those rotary cutting drill thingys?
    MarkHP>

    1989 Canadian Edition Vista/135 Optimax

  4. #4
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    I've used em all. The circular saw works well, you can set the depth to just score the inner skin. Makes nice strait lines if your repairing just a section. Makes a neater repair, low dust. You can use a fiber cutting disc in almost any rotary tool, drill motor, cut-off tool, etc. Fiber wheels create much more fine dust, like when your sanding sheetrock. I'm doing a small spot under my motor well now, was thinking of trying a spiral saw set to about 1/4" depth. Whatever you decide to use, be aware that cutting out a core is one of the most miserable jobs on the planet. You can't wear too much protection, for hands, eyes, nose, I've even started wearing a head sock to keep all the junk off me.
    Good luck
    Pete
    Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
    R.I.P. my Heathen Brother






  5. #5
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    I've got a Tykan suit and resporator so the 'itchies' will be minumal. Just trying to figure the easiest way to cut out the stuff. I guess I lucked out a little as I only have to do two strips of about 12" x 96" either side of the stringers. the core on the pad is solid.
    MarkHP>

    1989 Canadian Edition Vista/135 Optimax

  6. #6
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    For a long straight area, I'd use a circular saw with an old carbide blade.I'd set my depth about 3/16" and go deeper as needed. The balsa in my Ventura is 1/2" thick, assuming yours is the same, you have some room for error. If you can cut good strait lines, and keep it square, it's much easier to lay the new balsa. Some guys like to cut a checkerboard pattern. Depends on how soft and delaminated the core is. I like to pull it in one piece if its soft enough.
    Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
    R.I.P. my Heathen Brother






  7. #7
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    If the balsa is stuck well and not rotted in about 1/4 of the length would you change it anyway or leave it?
    MarkHP>

    1989 Canadian Edition Vista/135 Optimax

  8. #8
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    yup a sawzall, is a recipricating saw, and the air cutter is like a die grinder with a cutting disc. The die grinder makes lots of dust, your doin this at the right time of year, grinding glass is horrible on the humid summer days

  9. #9
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    I'd probably change it any way. Main reason is I like to add more material under the core as I'm doing the repair. I'd also be concerned with getting a good bond to the balsa that was left in. I don't feel the skin was thick enough to start with. That's why we all have delamination problems. I like to get extra layers of mat and roving in there, especially near the center and rear where the most stress is. Best thing is to read more posts on this forum, you can learn just about anything about fiberglass repair right here. Some of the guys on here are real pros.
    Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
    R.I.P. my Heathen Brother






  10. #10
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    And in the summer, your sweat ALWAYS drips into your fresh lay up!!!
    Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
    R.I.P. my Heathen Brother






  11. #11
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    How about a router with a straight bit?

    Set it for the depth and run it along.
    Ted
    www.cbpba.com
    "There is no dumbass vaccine"

  12. #12
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    A router would give a nice clean cut. But I've had poor results using it as a laminate cutting tool. I seem to break the flutes off. That's one of those deals that I never figured out, you can cut a dado a hundred feet long, but try cutting all the way through, and the bit breaks. Something about the flutes being captured on 2 sides I think.
    Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
    R.I.P. my Heathen Brother






  13. #13
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    I was figuring on 6 oz cloth, then 1/2" balsa and topped with 18 oz stitchmat (18 oz wovenroven + 1 oz mat) all with West System. What you think ?
    MarkHP>

    1989 Canadian Edition Vista/135 Optimax

  14. #14
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    My main experience is with polyester, I've worked with epoxy, but I would hesitate to advise you on an epoxy lay up. With polyester, you always want a layer of mat against the old skin for maximum adhesion. That doesn't seem to be so critical with epoxy. I think everyone will agree that epoxy is a better overall product, stronger with better adhesion and more waterproof. The only thing I can say for sure, is I'd prefer your Stichmat under the balsa. I like to strenghten the outer skin as much as possible to reduce flexing on the "impact" side. Search this forum for core replacement, there's guys here that have done half a dozen full recores or more, loads of info. Also on the Hydrostream Registry, there's a viper project going on that really shows how to do it right. I just wish they would hurry up and get the pictures on of the lay up. I think it's called "saved from the junkyard" in the tech articles.
    Living in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
    R.I.P. my Heathen Brother






  15. #15
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    Thanks for the infor Trans... I guess I will be scratching somewhat over the winter. I am documenting the project as I go with lots of pictures and will 'publish' it on Hydrostream.org when I am finished.

    Cheers.

    Mark
    MarkHP>

    1989 Canadian Edition Vista/135 Optimax

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