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Thread: Tonque too light
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10-15-2003, 11:15 PM #16
Turning....
Hmmm, didn't think of that It seems to pull ok on the flat area I have there so I could get by. I don't have to knife it in anyplace difficult. I think the 4 tires would help to stay out of the holes in the lake, that is my problem until I get a bigger motor in the cart....
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12-23-2003, 03:43 PM #17
Hey Mark, I was looking at the picture of your rig and wondered, instead of adding 20" to the tongue, why not just make a more vertical winch stand that would allow you to bring the boat further forward? I've got some pictures of my winch tower at home, I try to post one in the next day or so.
Last edited by chris_lacey; 12-23-2003 at 03:45 PM.
Chris Lacey <'((><
22' Redline SOB
Merc 225 3.0l
1995 Harley Davidson Road King
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12-23-2003, 06:55 PM #18
Hey Chris, I was thinking of doing something like that, I've only got to move everything about 10 " forward. If you got some examples of yours for reference that would be good.
Happy holidays to you and yours.MarkHP>
1989 Canadian Edition Vista/135 Optimax
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12-23-2003, 09:04 PM #19
I had the same trouble with mine once the jackplate was installed. The front was way to light. I just moved the tower farther forward. I do have an advantage and that my trailer was made for a much larger boat.
Fellow G-Man,
Sunshine Syndicate, Mid West Chapter
1975, 16' Checkmate Tri-mate 2.4 200+
Currently undergoing overhaul.
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01-16-2004, 11:47 PM #205000 RPM
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The right answer
You want a 60/40 weight distribution. 60% forward,40% aft.
Normally this would intail placing the axle dead center and moving it back about 1 foot. Since you have most of the weight aft on a bote this quick rule doesn't work. You will have to weigh your rig to find out the true weight, then place a scale under the tongue(they actually make a TW scale) and move the axle till you achieve a 60/40 split.Keep the Faith
Socially Disfuktional
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05-15-2004, 06:56 PM #216000 RPM
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Try just moving the winch stand forward and cut off the piece that will then hit the hatch of the car.
Jim
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05-16-2004, 06:53 AM #22
The way I added weight to my trailer was to make the tongue longer and make it out of 5/16 wall stock. That stuff weighes alot more than that thin tube that trailer companys use.
DaveW
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05-16-2004, 09:05 AM #23
I would move it forward as far as possible per captcarb. Extend the bunks if needed and if more tongue weight was needed add it to the tongue rather than rebuilding the tongue or shifting the axle. Literaly add weights of some kind. The % thing is a guide and your trailer won't tow any better with a number than it will if you try it.
Mine towed Ok but not great with 30lbs on the tongue. Towed like crap when the boat shifted and put a negative on the tongue. High speed deacceleration caused wander. Low speed didn't matter- this was with a negative tongue weight.
With engine off, the tongue weight went up from 30lbs to around 240lbs(stopped picking it up when I found that out!). And with no boat on the trailer the tongue weight is again enormous 160-200?
Moving my boat about 3" makes a substantial change in tongue weight-or handling.'90 STV
'96 260
under construction
for far too long
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05-16-2004, 10:01 AM #24
I'd say stretch the tongue if necessary
It won't hurt to have a bit more distance between you and the boat, especially at some crappy ramps. Move the boat forward as far as necessary to get the balance you need. I'm with Psyco on the weight distribution, you really want 60/40. This will make towing, stopping, and turning more smooth and predictable.
Last edited by Rickracer; 05-16-2004 at 10:17 AM.
Rickracer
Sunshine Syndicate Member
There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
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05-16-2004, 10:10 AM #255000 RPM
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my trailer also needs a tongue stretching
Tring to find a place that sells the box tubing around long island
jon b
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05-16-2004, 10:18 AM #26
Most steel companys will have sq. tube by the foot . Unless you trailer has some off size it will be a common size tube. You should be able to buy it with 3/16 to 3/8 walls. Most trailers have a cheap peice of 1/8 tube, I added two feet to my trailer years ago to get the wheel base longer and added weight to my tongue by using thick wall tube stock.
DaveW
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05-16-2004, 10:27 AM #27
You may want to find a size that will fit inside...
...and get a foot or two of it. Then get however much you will need of the same size. By slipping the smaller size inside, you will more than double the strength of the joint, adding some weight at the same time. Will you be welding or bolting it together? You might want to pick up some "cold galvanizing" spray at the same time either way, to touch up the cosmetics of the job.
Rickracer
Sunshine Syndicate Member
There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
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05-16-2004, 10:42 AM #28
If possible replace the whole tongue, steel tube isn't that pricey. The biggest pain is when they weld the hitch to the tongue.
DaveW
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05-18-2004, 05:22 PM #29Screaming And Flying!
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I agree with the percentages given for the ideal tongue weight... My opinion is that the less amount of total weight that you are towing, the less you trailer balance becomes critical... I have a 16' Allison that has had a 2.5 Mercury on it with 6" of set back.. The tougue weight is probably less than 10 lbs. and it tows perfectly.. Once again that is not recommended, but it shows what you can get by with.. By the way with your boat extending past your trailer and your tires pumped up hard, yor boat ain't feeling any love..
Kevin Kiser
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05-19-2004, 08:29 AM #30
Your tow vehicle makes a lot of difference also. I worked at a place and drove F350 dually diesels, I could load a 22' bed utility trailer any way I pleased with up to 10,000lbs and it made little difference. The three axles on the trailer helped also, but even with a twin it mattered little if you backloaded it unless you made a sharp turn on gravel. When I bought my 19' V8 I/O, a friend towed it back with an old chevy and it pulled so nice at 70mph. I hooked it to my ranger and did not dare go over 45mph! After fitting new higher pressure tires and a rear sway bar it was much better. It even had extra springs in it to start with. Weak sidewall tires are not good on the back of a tow vehicle, and lots of light trucks have them for a better ride now. With the 3/4 ton truck I have now I hardly notice that 19' behind me.
Otherwise go find some farm country, and find a welding shop there. They should be able to fab up your trailer reasonable to what you want. Like I posted here someplace, lots of people here chop the tongue off so they can store the boat in a garage easier plus it is great security if you toss that end in your house. They run a tube inside a couple foot and have no problems with it using a pin or bolts w/lock nuts when towing.