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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlwjkw View Post
    agree.. if it’s not working with tha "stock" stuff find tha problem as ta why... jmo.
    This is why I stick with the stock stuff, no matter how tempting it is to try something else. I don’t even dream of out-engineering, the those original Merc V6 engineers… And I even have my degree in Mechanical Engineering.

    -Peter
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    18’ Bahner bow rider, 2.4/200

    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  2. #17
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    looks "kool factor" does it all tha time...............

  3. #18
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    It started with installing a damn temp guage, and would try heat up on long idle zones, I was chasing the ghost. I wanted to see it run little cooler , and I got a chance to see the results of diffrent mods or changes made. Definitely not the cool factor , hell my motor is already cool �� haha. I got everything under control with letting poppet open little sooner. But since merc started installing diverters in promax after 96 or 97, wouldn't it be a good idea for me stick some on there? Thats only thing I haven't tried. Real long idle ill see 165 maybe 170 on guage (head temp) but now I can move to fast idle and poppet opens and controls that

  4. #19
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    diverters are good for any of 'em.... hard ta say but any "stock" coolin' sytem should operate as is in any condition???.. but it is a merc sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo.
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 06-15-2025 at 08:13 PM.

  5. #20
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    So what you are saying is you cut one coil off the poppet and now it is cooling fine?

    If that is what you did, I would just stay with what you did and "goose it" a touch when you need to lower the temp for long no wake zones.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg G View Post
    So what you are saying is you cut one coil off the poppet and know it is cooling fine?
    In sports cars, if you cut a coil, it stiffens the spring (lowers the ride height too). I would think if you want the poppet to open sooner, a softer spring, not a cut spring would be what you want. A little surprised that Merc doesn’t offer a variety of poppet springs of varying rates for different apps.

    -Peter
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    18’ Bahner bow rider, 2.4/200

    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  7. Likes Greg G liked this post
  8. #22
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    If a merc master tech with 20 or more years of wrenching says to mod something so simple for a fix why not? Do remember that merc builds and designs these engines to run in freezing water and ALMOST any other water temp. When water temp is in the 90 deg range the cooling system is not up to the task at fast idle speeds in some models. My opti's don't care at all. But my 2.5's always got hot at fast idle in our fla waters in the summer.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, ff block 2.5 w/a 28p chopper
    Ain't it great to have papa TRUMP back at the helm?
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  9. Thanks pcrussell50, Greg G thanked for this post
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  10. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    If a merc master tech with 20 or more years of wrenching says to mod something so simple for a fix why not? Do remember that merc builds and designs these engines to run in freezing water and ALMOST any other water temp. When water temp is in the 90 deg range the cooling system is not up to the task at fast idle speeds in some models. My opti's don't care at all. But my 2.5's always got hot at fast idle in our fla waters in the summer.
    good to know. Wasn’t trying to overstep. I was just speaking from book theory, when I was talking about how cutting out coils actually stiffens the spring rate. This is true for sure, (basic physics). However making the spring shorter might be what is providing the benefit of early poppet opening at lower rpm.

    also I boat in warm water that gets above 90degF too at air temperatures above 100degF (Mojave Desert). I test my overheat buzzer frequently, and have not had it go off even in long slogs through the no-wake zone. The heads don’t get hot by the old finger tip touch test (highly calibrated lab instrument, lol).

    ***

    This motor has been trouble free enough that hooking up the water pressure and cylinder head temp have been on the back burner. Maybe I’ll get to it this summer? It has the two chamber “dog bone” poppet with two vertical water tubes and a single tell tale.

    -Peter
    Last edited by pcrussell50; 06-16-2025 at 05:22 PM.
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    18’ Bahner bow rider, 2.4/200

    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  11. #24
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    Fresh water also helps a motor over time with better cooling but you are a much better man than I running no gauges at all. Back here I plumbed the other cylinder bank to run a second gauge

  12. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg G View Post
    Fresh water also helps a motor over time with better cooling but you are a much better man than I running no gauges at all. Back here I plumbed the other cylinder bank to run a second gauge
    yeah, just grass rootsing it so far. I ca tell by looking when the poppet opens. I can tell by feeling the heads that they aren’t hot, and as I said I check often, the overheat sensor that it works.

    After I get the stock cylinder head temp and water pressure gauges hooked back up, I’ve been thinking of plumbing up an actual water temp gauge myself.

    -Peter
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    18’ Bahner bow rider, 2.4/200

    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  13. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg G View Post
    Fresh water also helps a motor over time with better cooling but you are a much better man than I running no gauges at all. Back here I plumbed the other cylinder bank to run a second gauge
    yeah, I’m just grass rootsing it so far. I can tell by looking when the poppet opens. I can tell by feeling the heads that they aren’t hot, and as I said I check often, the overheat sensor that it works.

    After I get the stock cylinder head temp and water pressure gauges hooked back up, I’ve been thinking of plumbing up an actual water temp gauge myself. I’ll probably ask for guidance on which water tube to tap into.

    -Peter
    Last edited by pcrussell50; 06-16-2025 at 08:25 PM.
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    18’ Bahner bow rider, 2.4/200

    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  14. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    Steel sleeve 2.5 ....... Any thoughts or am I missing the obvious here
    So Merc 2.5 where did you ever end up on your cooling issue?

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