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  1. #1
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    Lightweight cowl pan repair.

    I have been looking for a lightweight cowl for a while now. I finally found one. A very rare Formula 1. It's really cool but it needs some work. The cowl itself has some minor cracks and has been painted. is peeling. It needs to be repainted. The pan is1the real problem. It has a bunch of cracks and a couple poorly done old repairs. It's useable the way it is. But I want to fix it. What would be the best way to fix the cracks? I tried structural plastic epoxy once on a broken plow light. It seemed to work. But it didn't look great. Plus, I didn't have it long, so I don't know if it lasted. My other Idea is to duplicate it out of fiberglass. I can use the original one to make a mold. Then 3 or 4 layers of matting should be strong enough. The hard part is sanding it smooth. I did something similar with the dashboard on my Glastron. Used the old broken dash as a mold. Modified it to fit more gauges. I came out great.

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  2. #2
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    I used stainless plastic welding staples. Mine was a lot worse than that and they have held up great.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  3. #3
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    Hot Iron Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by skialot2 View Post
    I have been looking for a lightweight cowl for a while now. I finally found one. A very rare Formula 1. It's really cool but it needs some work. The cowl itself has some minor cracks and has been painted. is peeling. It needs to be repainted. The pan is1the real problem. It has a bunch of cracks and a couple poorly done old repairs. It's useable the way it is. But I want to fix it. What would be the best way to fix the cracks? I tried structural plastic epoxy once on a broken plow light. It seemed to work. But it didn't look great. Plus, I didn't have it long, so I don't know if it lasted. My other Idea is to duplicate it out of fiberglass. I can use the original one to make a mold. Then 3 or 4 layers of matting should be strong enough. The hard part is sanding it smooth. I did something similar with the dashboard on my Glastron. Used the old broken dash as a mold. Modified it to fit more gauges. I came out great.

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    I don't remember what Merc used for plastic material but these buckets and pans started out as beads and were roto molded. The bucket was a split half assembly then bonded at the centerline lap seam. Since you plan on splashing the pan anyway, try a hot iron (heated by torch) to smear and fuse the crack lines. Repairing any cracks at the tie down locations never hold up. Before you splash the pan use molding clay to form any additional "ribs" to stiffen the pan up were cracked. If you are really clever, your new pan could be split in two pieces fwd/aft along the centerline so pan can be removed without pulling the powerhead (center tin plate). The center tin plates were cad plated by Merc. I would NOT powder coat the plate because it might affect the exhaust and water gasket sandwich (bond layers). Merc never intended these bucket and pans to be repaired. They were usually pitched in the trash and replaced.

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  5. #4
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    Replace the base plate with new stainless. Buckshot marine sells them
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  7. #5
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    I think someone on here made stainless base plates.

  8. #6
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    Drilling?

    Quote Originally Posted by delawarerick View Post
    I think someone on here made stainless base plates.
    Whether the plate is OEM or stainless, they are a bitch to drill on.

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    Replace the base plate with new stainless. Buckshot marine sells them
    Yes, Buckshot sells stainless base plates. They also sell the coil mounting bracket to make the coils fit under the cowl.

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by delawarerick View Post
    I think someone on here made stainless base plates.
    Jones marine design. That’s who I got mine from. Good plate, good price
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  12. #9
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    if you are still looking for filler that works well with cowl plastic we have used K-Bond to fix cowls and pans.

    https://koverbond.com/en/usa/
    Last edited by rjdubiel; 01-29-2025 at 09:06 AM.
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

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  14. #10
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    The formula 2 decal is just a little rectangle over the original decal on this cowl. I am going to have to replace the decals when I repaint it. So I decided to peel it off. The Original is Formula 1. But the only replacement decals I can find say Formula 2.4 liter. Maybe I will have them customized to say Formula 2.5 Liter. Because I will be using it on a 2.5


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  15. #11
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    I like the idea of making a fiberglass mold off it, lotta work but it can be done...

    If you put PVA on it does it bead up?


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  17. #12
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    I used plio grip flexible parts repair with fiberglass screen after the staples trick. I bought the screen at Home Depot. As in window replacement screen
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  19. #13
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    i do a lot of glass work, made glass bumpers for my nova drag car, using oem chrome bumper as the mold. on your
    pan, i would cut some glass cloth[carefully] to lay between the existing ribs[2-3 layers, then 1 layer over the ribs and all,make a template of pan,sharpie to mark the cloth. make cardboard templates for shapes between ribs. you will end with a nice close weave finish, mininum finish work.............your a craftsmam ski, nice work on that dash
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    Last edited by KIRCHNER; 02-03-2025 at 09:37 PM.

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  21. #14
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    I make fiberglass pans for that cowl

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  23. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by RONNIE View Post
    I make fiberglass pans for that cowl
    Cool. How much do you charge for one? I am on long island too, so no shipping needed.

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