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  1. #1
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    2.4L Chrome bore quesitons

    I have a 1985 175 block that was rebuilt less than 500 hours ago. I have it in the shop for service, the heads were removed and we've got scratched up cylinders and scraped rings on at least two holes, one has a large groove in the chrome that goes the entire length of the stroke. The pistons - which were new at rebuild - look fine. Maybe it was running a little lean? At this point, who knows, but s--- like this happens to me regularly, both my boat and my classic car. Sorry, don't mean to "whine", but it is what it is. I have a good XR2 drop-on block that was removed to install this 2.4 (I wanted this for the extra torque, and 5 mph more at top end is nice, too), but I could cut my losses and go back to the 150, or have another 2.4 built. I'm looking at Chris Carson and TMS Performance for this. Do any of you have any opinions on what you think I should do? If I go ahead and have another block done I will have spent about 8 grand in 5 years for two different motors. Thanks for any wisdom provided.

  2. #2
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    If it was me, I would install the 150 and save $ till I found a suitable 2.5. Much easier, usually, to repair than a chrome bore when things do go south.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

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  4. #3
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    There are people here who have sleeved damaged chrome bores, and are totally happy running a mix with some holes sleeved and some chrome, both in the same block.

    Hit up rjdubiel, and rgsauger both here at S’n’F as I think both of those blokes ran 2.4’s like that. Maybe they’ll chime in here?

    -Peter
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    18’ Bahner bow rider, 2.4/200 like this one: https://images.offerup.com/p7x0VYOCm...8704f88eb6.jpg
    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  5. #4
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    Sleeve or no sleeve, they run the same in my opinion. But at the same time I would do what Rock said, run the spare, sell the 2.4 parts and find a 2.5 to run in the future.
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

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  7. #5
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    Back in the day I had a Bridgeport with 2 steel sleeves. Ran fine. But that was back in the day. Now I would agree with Rock. Put the 150 back on for now. For the money it takes to sleeve and build a 2.4 you can either find a running 2.5 or find one to build.

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  9. #6
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    Thank you for the responses so far! The talk of a 2.5... I would have to have the whole outboard. A 2.5 won't drop on because this is a clamshell motor and I'd need the exhaust plate to mount the cowl. I don't want to change the cowl. Plus, isn't a 2.5 physically bigger? But, I'd consider a, say, complete XR6.
    Speaking of, indulge me in a little story... A few years ago there was here on SnF a 2.5 150 Super Magnum Mariner, and it was the exact engine I would want to put on my boat: Alien cowl, charcoal grey, bright red graphics, in pristine condition, FI, OI, 2:1 sporty - it was the exact engine I wanted, but I didn't have the $$ at the time to pull the trigger!

  10. #7
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    tha later "bucket" cowls will work jus fine you jus need tha two brackets (will bolt up to your plate jus fine) for tha tha two bottom cowl pieces.. all tha 2.0, 2.4, 2.5's are basically tha same size.. a horizontal front (carb or efi, different front latching system makes it easier) 2.4 clam shell will work ona 2.5 with a very simple rear bracket fab piece. i don't know if tha 40 amp flywheel will clear though.. we always ran 16 amp stuff on justa 'bout anything we had around tha shop.. tha first one i did was a clam shell XR4 put on an XR6... was a really neat deal.. tha 4 cowls were perfect and looked excellent.....................

    just remembered.... with tha front bracket for tha later model bucket style... you will need ta drill 4, 1/4" holes in the front of your plate... you will see what i mean when you go ta put it together....
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 01-21-2025 at 08:00 AM.

  11. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlwjkw View Post
    ti don't know if tha 40 amp flywheel will clear though.. we always ran 16 amp stuff on justa 'bout anything we had around tha shop..
    My current 2.4/200 is natively a 1990 was a bucket cowl with water cooled regulators and 40A. Thankfully the previous owner converted it back to 16A unregulated, and with clamshells. I like it much better that way. And I didn't have to do the work myself.

    -Peter
    Last edited by pcrussell50; 01-21-2025 at 11:19 PM.
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    18’ Bahner bow rider, 2.4/200 like this one: https://images.offerup.com/p7x0VYOCm...8704f88eb6.jpg
    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

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  13. #9
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    Here's some pics of the damage. The first three are what happened in the sleeved #1. Then #5 which has a major scrape in the chrome between two intake ports and the 2nd ring shows the damage there, too.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	No. 1 Cyl., Port Sidea.jpg 
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Name:	No. 1 Cyl., Port Sideb.jpg 
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Name:	No. 1 Piston.jpg 
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Name:	No. 5 Cyl., Scrape.jpg 
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  14. #10
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    Who did the sleeve on #1

  15. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    Who did the sleeve on #1
    I have no idea. It's a long story. I purchased it with the sleeve in it.

  16. #12
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    I have awesome machinist and told me long time ago, if it's tore up bad enough, especially if leaned out ,got hot etc to need sleeve, get over sized sleeve and bore the block/ liner for new sleeve to fit , because enough heat actually warps the liner that sleeve goes in and new sleeve dosent full contact with liner and will leave you "hot spots" water that's circulating around liner cant keep sleeve cool if not touching the liner in spots which is where hot spots come from , now expansion rates are wrong etc. And most heat is on exhaust side of cyl , which looks to be where most scuffing is on sleeve cyl , this is also a big reason people get a sleeve in a cyl , they get back together with 10 or 20 hrs and same cyl goes down again. Not saying this is your cause but a damn good possibility for sure,

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  18. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    I have awesome machinist and told me long time ago, if it's tore up bad enough, especially if leaned out ,got hot etc to need sleeve, get over sized sleeve and bore the block/ liner for new sleeve to fit , because enough heat actually warps the liner that sleeve goes in and new sleeve dosent full contact with liner and will leave you "hot spots" water that's circulating around liner cant keep sleeve cool if not touching the liner in spots which is where hot spots come from , now expansion rates are wrong etc. And most heat is on exhaust side of cyl , which looks to be where most scuffing is on sleeve cyl , this is also a big reason people get a sleeve in a cyl , they get back together with 10 or 20 hrs and same cyl goes down again. Not saying this is your cause but a damn good possibility for sure,
    this is something thats over looked time and time again, by imo 90%, of motor "builders" 'round here...... jmo.

  19. #14
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    May need a pic from little farther back but pic #2 if you look ,looks like sleeve ain't touching liner , may be pic/lighting but dont look like it fits real good

  20. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlwjkw View Post
    this is something thats over looked time and time again, by imo 90%, of motor "builders" 'round here...... jmo.
    Ive seen so much of it, then u try tell somebody, more to it than sliding sleeve in it and and they wanna act like you don't know what ur talking about, people come to s&f fourm to learn , over on Facebook, Joe blow with his " blackmax" he's had for 6 months can't tell him damn thing, some of the comments for fixes is a joke then people actually take thier word on it , hope and pray they don't make it over to here

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