Merc 60EFI Exhaust/Adapter Plate hole and stiff shifting

[Tarponhead]

Engine: 60ELPTEFI SN: 0T867735

Purchased used boat with approx 550 hrs on above motor. After getting home, I changed all fluids, lower and crank case, filters, plugs, and inspected the timing belt which had no signs of dry rot cracks or debris from wear, so I am delaying the belt change until winter.
I have 2 issues I would like your expert input on:

Issue 1) After running the boat several times I saw a buildup of salt on the Port lower cowling in one spot. See pic. This corresponds to a hole in the Adapter Plate ( PN. 825228A17). See pictures
.
What causes this? Is there anything I can do to prevent this (if, when) I replace the Adapter Plate?
Does anyone have an Adapter Plate PN 825228A17 they would want to sell? ( I pulled this part number from Crowleys)

Issue 2) I purchased this engine knowing the shifting was very stiff, thinking it was the cables needing replaced, worth the gamble. Disconnected the cables, they moved smoothly. I removed the gear case to change the water pump and the gear oil. In trying to shift it, while turning the prop, the shifting was very difficult. I basically had to use vice grips to grip and move it. I have been using it hoping it will loosen/smooth out, no such luck of course. I noticed on the water shifting out of gear is a little harder than putting into gear from neutral. Reverse is harder than forward. It goes into gear without chattering, so I dont believe its the clutch. Studying the assembly diagram, I am thinking it is the Shift Control Cam PN 760394 ( if this is the correct part number, lots of variations). Would the experts agree?
if so, do I need to remove that rear bearing race to change that out? I would need to buy a different bearing puller with the necessary reach to do that. The bearings are in good shape, I prefer to leave them alone. If I do need to pull races, I will probably take it to a Merc dealer to change that Shift Cam.

[OnPad]

Idk much about your engine, but your first problem looks like it might be fixable with some pipe sealant, or teflon tape. Maybe try some penetrating oil, and/or heat around the pipe plug before removing.

Your second problem, is a bit of a head scratcher. My lower units aren't going to shift with just fingers on the shift shaft. Indent ball/s in the clutch that maintain neutral position take a bit of force to ramp out of the indent in the prop shaft. Might try to remove shift shaft, and make sure it's not bent. I could see damaging that, or parts in the remote control, if someone was determined to shift while engine wasn't running.

If more disassembly is required. The lu's I've taken apart allow for prop shaft/shift mechanism removal by removing the shift shaft, and prop shaft carrier.

[Tarponhead]

I am sorry, I should have been more descriptive. I was under the impression this was a somewhat common issue.

On the two photos below I have circled the problem. On the Adapter/Exhaust plate you will see a hole circled. This is not suppose to be there. Exhaust comes out of the hole and hits the lower cowling at the place circled in the second picture. Hence the significant salt deposits from the heat, which tipped me off of an issue. The exhaust of the engine has eroded a hole in the Adapter Plate.
What can cause this? I thought an overly lean condition, but its an EFI, and there are no adjustments on the engine The only adjustment is a pointer that should be aligned with a mark when the throttle butterfly begins to open. (Per the factory shop manual). Mine is within spec ( 1/8” of mark).


Hopefully this clarifies the issue.
I really dont want to spend all this money and work just for it to happen again.

thanks
Tom

[Tarponhead]

I see some posts have Mercury Tech in the title in red, does a moderator add this? Calling for a Techs input?
I ask this as I see I have got quite a few reads, and I seem to have you stumped��.
Obviously the eroded hole in the Exhaust/Adapter Plate is the most important and troubling.

[donmac]

wondering if the motor was propped correctly
not sure if that motor has shift interupt, but if it does and not adjusted properly that will cause the tough out of gear shift! turning shift shaft by hand never possible!

[Tarponhead]

At WOT the RPMs are 5500, right in the middle of the spec 5000-6000. My personal preference would be propped close to 6000, but I figured its good enough for now.

Good point on the shift interrupt switch. Not sure. I will explore that. But that doesnt explain the excessive force required on the bench.
My conclusion on the degree of shifting difficulty both on the boat and on the bench is based on the other gear cases I have owned and worked on. They are 2 stoke products (OMC) but its the same basic design and operation.

[OnPad]

I can only imagine what it's like to run a boat in salt. I see what it does to land based vehicles in my neck of the woods, and it's not good.
I didn't see that hole in the first post. I guess when taken apart to fix, you will get a good idea of the condition of internals that have been exposed to salt. Maybe it was just a bad spot in the casting, or maybe it's time to cut bait, like my 20 year old truck that has been wrecked from salt.

[Tarponhead]

When inspecting the hole in the Exhaust plate, it’s definitely eroded from the inside. There are no witness marks on the outside showing corrosion, etc. It doesnt mean it didn't corrode from the inside out though. I agree with the defective casting comment, that was the first thing I thought of when I saw it. The other thing I thought of was an excessively hot exhaust, since exhaust is exiting the hole. There is an old conversation on the internet where people had this issue and used high temp JB Weld on the hole. Im not doing that. I will fix it correctly, I am just trying to find out why so it doesnt happen again.
So I did a bit more troubleshooting along that line. I pulled the plugs, they all look good and even cylinder to cylinder, not hot, maybe a little richer and cooler that my preference (factory settings), but good. The plugs are the factory specified plugs. Then I did a compression check, 185-190 (cold and WOT)in all cylinders. Spec is minimum 135psi, and “new engine max” of 195-215psi I believe it was.
All good for 540 hours.

Yes salt can be a problem. I find the best thing is to check your anodes and connections 1-2 times per year, and disconnect your battery when not in use ( most dont do this). Also, ANY screw, bolt, or nuy gets sticky marine grease, or Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket on the threads. Plus spray down your entire engine with anti corrosion spray (OMC makes the best, its like cosmolene). I have. Johnson 175 with over 4000 hours that has zero corrosion issues, internal or external. I will try an dig up a picture of the internal thermostat housing I took a while ago. Looks nearly new. I flush my engines once a week or so with Salt-away or some other surfactant.

[OnPad]

I checked the parts diagram for you engine. Looks like the exhaust port is directly behind your unwanted hole. It might have started with a leaky gasket. I've had problems burning out gaskets between ports on the bigger outboards. The spot that burns out has no direct contact with cooling water.

I can also attest to the quality of aluminum castings. Done a bit of welding on em. They are full of porosity, and junk.

The diagrams also suggest that the lower unit comes apart like I suspected. The prop shaft comes out with clutch, and shift mechanism. No need to take driveshaft, forward bearing or race out. Just remove carrier, shift shaft, and pull the prop shaft out of the forward gear. Any problems should be recognizable with careful inspection of the gears, shift mechanism, clutch, or prop shaft. All that stuff comes apart pretty easy, unlike power head, or lu carriers used in salt.

You sound like a intelligent individual that has taken the best care possible of your equipment. With a bit of determination, and elbow grease you will get it sorted.

I'll get out of your ear. Maybe someone with some experience on this particular engine will chime in.

[Tarponhead]

Bad gasket lead to erosion of the metal, sounds very plausible. Thanks for that input. Have not thought about that yet. I have seen that happen with exhaust leaks on autos.

I was looking at the diagrams on Crowley Marine, and it looks just like the Evinrude gear cases Im use to. Rather straight forward. I will have to figure out a way to get one of my pullers on the carrier to pull it. On my others I have a spot to thread a rod/long bolt into to pull it. Maybe buy some threadall and bend a J-hook in it.

Intelligent? Lets see how many parts are left over when Im done, but thanks. I try to maintain these this meticulously to avoid issues like this. Its cheaper that way, and I want my boat to be ready when I am. Most of this knowledge comes from factory manuals, and the school of hard knocks.

I will post my findings to hopefully help someone else. I hate finding threads that dont have findings/solutions in them.

[Tarponhead]

Been tearing down, and looking for parts. What an eye opener. Seems this was a more common issue than thought. I have been looking for the lower exhaust housing WITHOUT any of the erosion to the casting. They all have it!! I look for fresh water parts for obvious reasons. Its worth the extra shipping. EVERY casting in that exhaust area shows signs or erosion from hot exhaust. There had to be a significant amount of failures due to this.
Here is a picture of the BEST one I have found. Still signs of it. Its off a low hour engine ( looks lower hours than mine, so its believable) there the power head thru a rod.
No one has any knowlege on this?

[25two.stroke]

That motor has had a long history of use in salt and adapter plate/driveshaft housing issues. Appears to have been replaced/worked on twice under warranty while it was less than 3 years old. Not sure if that motor is running its exhaust too hot or not flowing enough water...but it looks like it was a major headache its whole life.

I have an adapter plate and a driveshaft housing that have zero signs of corrosion or heat damage, but the two layer metal gasket between the 2 pieces it all rotted right in that area but not anywhere else. Looks like the exhaust relief area must trap some water+hot exhaust right there and it eat it up. Not sure why all the newer ones didnt have as much corrosion in the plates as the old ones. 2012 and up they had less issues. Once they went to the EZ Shift lower too it was way better. You shift problem won't go away on its own, that was classic for the old 50/60 hp. Shifter gets burred up and worn and makes the shifter drag.

[skialot2]

Sounds like a it might be a good idea to take the plate to a good welder. Have the worn area filled. The weld is usually harder then the base material. It should last a while. Probably be cheaper and easier than finding a good adapter plate.

[Tarponhead]

Two Stroke,
your observation is in line with a piece of info I received yesterday. A Yamaha Master Tech was kind enough to spend a few minutes with me looking at my pictures and discussing. He called out right away that it was an early (2004) engine, Yamaha Powerhead, Merc everything else. He said it was not uncommon, and figured others had the issue and didnt know/care. Said most took the JB Weld route due to the cost. He called out that it was a low hour engine and said if they reached 750-1000+ hours they would not exhibit this issue ever. He also said that something was changed in the newer models because he never saw the issue in them. Pretty much everything you are saying. That’s corroborated IMO. Thanks for your input, keep it coming.

Skialot,
I tend to agree with your comments on the weld. I have already procured parts, and spent that money, so the welding will be additional. I did that based on the data I had at that time. Now, after you guys input, and that Master Tech, the picture is a bit different than it was early on. Thanks for the input.

[Tarponhead]

If the problem was corrected later, when was that?
Does anyone know if that part number will fit this Yamaha Powerhead?
Is there any way to discern if a later part number (with the solution) will fit this Powerhead?