temp alarm hook-up

**KIRCHNER** · 01-07-2024, 02:00 PM

bought a new temp alarm buzzer[under dash], all harness wires are used, where does the buzzer hook to? the old alarm n/g i think a tan wire? tan goes to my gauge now. thanks

**johnmiffco** · 01-07-2024, 02:32 PM

heat horn wires are the tan with blue stripe that comes from sender on cyl head
and the purple for keyed power
both wires are at the key switch coming out the harness and key
if there is not a tan/blue in the harness at the key then it is a harness without the factory heat horn

**KIRCHNER** · 01-07-2024, 04:06 PM

my cyl, head wire goes to my gauge, starts as a tan/blue on pwr hd turns to tan up to dash, im confused. pwr head has factory probe, and a after mkt tab sensor, bolt on, so the buzzer goes on its own wire from pwr head,and gauge from the other cyl probe?

**Jim Speros** · 01-07-2024, 04:20 PM

Tan and tan/blue are separate circuits. At least they are supposed to be. Tan is temp gauge; Tan/blue is alarm. Alarm sender is on stb head just under #1 cylinder.

Early harnesses has a tan wire. It may be a good idea to ohm test and confirm what you have presently. Could be the tan/blue has added separate from main harness and is no longer there.

The alarm as mentioned above connects to purple keyed hot at dash. Alarm always has 12 volts present with key on. Tan/ blue from alarm sender offers the ground.
To test alarm you can simply turn key to on[ with engine not running ] and ground the tan/ blue terminal on engine.

**KIRCHNER** · 01-07-2024, 08:11 PM

jim; i ohm tested the mentioned factory head sensor, no continuity. the bolt on yes would a good factory sender be same resistance as a bolt-on? if so, i could add another bolt-on for buzzer? i have heatsink compound for the tab type. the buzzer saved me running skater #1 a while back,anything over 5k she buzzed, needed a 10$ impeller. thanks' Art K. Shes going on a brand new trailer tomorrow am. needing help to bolt up the l/u, sucker is too heavy for me, im just too old!

**Jim Speros** · 01-07-2024, 08:38 PM

I should have been more clear. Continuity test wires from engine to dash to ensure you are connecting what you think you are.
The alarm sender with be open [ no continuity ] until it reaches its overheat temp. Gauge sender ohms will be different then alarm sender.

I too like alarms.

**tlwjkw** · 01-07-2024, 09:31 PM

your gonna have two wires goin to tha dash.. tha over temp wire (starboard side sender) is Pinned in tha harness connectors which connects it to tha buzzer.. tha wire goin' to tha gauge in tha harness is gonna be "exposed" at tha male end of tha harness... its NOT pinned in tha harness connector... has ta be connected externally to gauge wire (port side sender) at tha male end of tha plug... usually done with male/female bullet connectors...

originally tha gauge and gauge sensor were an option.. if it wasn't ordered with motor tha over temp was jus tan. then tha gauge sensor kinda became a standard with later (not so with first ones) efi's.. still and option with carb motor.. not tha gauge, jus tha sensor... so thats when tha blue stripe came inta play only thing was they weren't consistent with it at first.. they eventually got it all consistent for colors... but there was a time when it wasn't.. jus remember if its a "PINNED" wire (no mater tha color, tan or tan/blue) in tha harness male/female plug its for over temp ... tha "other one" is for a gauge................. jmo

**KIRCHNER** · 01-08-2024, 09:34 AM

i probally didnt need a new gauge after all, anyway your post really cleared it all up, my 84 carb has the pinned alarm wire only. the aftermkt tab is for a gauge, thank you again

**tlwjkw** · 01-08-2024, 11:00 AM

..........

**KIRCHNER** · 01-08-2024, 05:38 PM

oh yeah, ran a tan wire up, new gauge working perfect and factory wire to horn. i found the port side boss where the optional sender would go fired it up with no l/u, timing way retarded 15after, moved it to 10, bumped the to 1000, sounds great. ill have to use my engine hoist to help with lower, everyone now has a bad back, right.b.s. ill wave as i go by, ha ha Art.

**Jim Speros** · 01-08-2024, 10:27 PM

As I got older and my back ached more I figured out I could use a short shop stool to sit on as I supported the lower unit with my knee. It freed up both hands and allowed my to align shift shaft and get the first nut on without fighting the weight of the unit.

**KIRCHNER** · 01-09-2024, 08:12 AM

whats better, having the engine tilted or straight? i had a visegrip on the prop shaft and shimmed the shift with newspaper to keep it perpendicular, which helped, still a bear,

**donmac** · 01-09-2024, 09:11 AM

makes no difference, once you've done it 50 times it's like undoing a bra, everything just drops into place! hardest part is getting the drive at the right height so the washers are on and you can get the nuts started!

**Jim Speros** · 01-09-2024, 12:06 PM

Art, tilted just enough to get driveshaft up in the housing.

After a few hundred I figured out the easiest way for me. That was sitting on a Jegs stool holding the weight of the unit on my knee.

**skialot2** · 01-09-2024, 12:35 PM

I usually just stick the driveshaft up the midsection. Then trim the motor down so the skeg sits on a floor jack. Then just pump the jack up slowly while aligning the spline, shift shaft and water tube.