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  1. #1
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    No water to top of heads on Bridgeport 2.4 and overheating

    New to outboards but experienced mechanic just to start off just want to make sure you know I understand which end of a screw driver to use haha. Things I've done or checked from help of other people on here. I just replaced impeller and housing and all gaskets including lower ones. Have water to starboard side dump coming from where the poppet valve would normally be and lower port side when above 3000 rpms. Has no poppet valve and no thermostats like a Bridgeport is supposed to be from what I'm told. Has pressure gauge off top of starboard head which I tested with air and works but shows nothing even if I rev motor to 5k. No flow from top of heads even at that rpm at port dump hose. Hard for me to tell if it has a one piece mid or 2 piece and I've heard that matters but also pretty sure the guy I bought boat from did ran it the way it sits a few years ago. What should I do next?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 16921434099407187569483209102622.jpg   IMG_20230815_185557358.jpg   IMG_20230815_185550726_HDR.jpg  
    Last edited by 62 bugzilla; 08-15-2023 at 08:04 PM.

  2. #2
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    I had basically the same issue not three weeks ago. My impeller was fresh and good. What I missed was that in the impeller housing, where the copper water tube enters, there should be a rubber grommet. It’s easy to miss if your housing is black, as mine is. I put a fresh new grommet in there and now I’m cool as a cucumber.

    ===

    Wow, a bridge port! That’s a heck of a motor to start out in outboarding with.

    -Peter
    Last edited by pcrussell50; 08-15-2023 at 09:01 PM.
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

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  4. #3
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    Double checked that and it came in new housing lightly grease it on both ends of copper tubing to top

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 62 bugzilla View Post
    Double checked that and it came in new housing lightly grease it on both ends of copper tubing to top
    Next, drop the lower unit back out and shove a garden hose up the copper tube and see what you get. You should get something like this:


    This ^^^ is me checking my own 2.4/200 out.

    -Peter
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  6. #5
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    Great idea will do

  7. #6
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    its got a two piece plate from what i see.. need a little better pic of tha side of motor.. does have any numbers stamped on tha flange of tha block half, port side?.. anything stamped in tha welsh plug?..

    if it is a two piece then you will need a functioning poppet and t stats or at lest 3/8" hole restrictor washers.. before you drop lower remove tha big plug on top of block and star tha thing.. should have lotsa flow from ther.. no flow then its gonna be a problem between tha pump and bottom of block.....

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  9. #7
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    Could it be dumping all the water out the bottom with 2 piece mid and not building enough to the top for pressure? I heard something about plugging a spot in 2 price mid and restrict it to flow to top with no poppet valve motors? It does have the proper restrictors it thermostats housing now.

  10. #8
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    Yes does have numbers in block is 1990 Bridgeport 245 motor.

  11. #9
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    that motor originally came ona one piece.. when its run on tha two piece ya really need ta make it same type coolin' as a production motor... there a several tricks ta make it a "cool" coolin system but "cool" don't necessarily work (cool) like tha motor needs.. it needs ta be one or tha other to make tha motor perform and last like its supposed to... tha restrictor washers (3/8" hole) will be fine but with a stock 2 piece ya need an operational (production) poppet w/o tha hose bib on it unless ya wanna tie it into a bib on tha top of tha block (where its got a big plug now)... this is jus tha way i would do it but its your motor soooooooooooooo... but ya gotta get tha water in tha motor first so there's that......... think you'll find that problem pretty quick.... good luck with it.. ya gotta clean one, take good care of it.

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    Just 2 be clear you’re talking about taking off the owner head and restricting the water dump area in the mid with plug and drilling to limit what gets to lower unit right? I like this better even if more work since I don’t like modifying the motor for poppet valve. I was gonna try and confirm by removing lower section and running water straight up pump tube can that show me or can I see it from opening at lower unit?

  13. #11
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    got lost in translation?... all you need ta do is add all internal "design II" poppet parts and block off tha bib on tha poppet cover.. forget tha hose goin' to tha top of tha block.......

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  15. #12
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    tlwjkw knows his stuff. Run a poppet and thermostats, they will keep your engine warm and happy with the proper water pressure. Dry stacking your 2-piece plate with the needed cooling mods won't make that much of difference. Running a motor cold (not holding water in the block to be warmed) at WOT for a mile or so can be catastrophic. Cold seize!

  16. #13
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    So I need to add a poppet housing to replace my 2 bolt plate with hose and install poppet valve design 2 in housing and re connect hose. Also add thermostats to to of heads instead of the restrictors and this will get water to top of heads and cool properly. Do I need to modify engine in any other way? I thought my area to the rear of the motor that the housing goes over is blocked off doesn’t it normally have a hole into block?
    Last edited by 62 bugzilla; 08-16-2023 at 04:22 PM.

  17. #14
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    What gearcase do you have, HP bridgeport has no thermostat just a washer with a 3/8 hole in it.

    Since you put a new impeller kit in it you may be ready to ramp test. Its hard to flow test on a hose. Before you start taking things apart ramp test it. Don't take off trailer immediately. Run, rev , shift in and out of gears and check water pressure gauge. If all that is OK , take for a ride.
    Jim

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    It looks like a powerhead got swapped. Bridgeport on stock mid like mentioned above. I am not saying the mods he mentioned are not gonna help. But I think that is more for top end flow. I still think a ramp test is in order as a good next move. I'm curious about your gearcase since its not a complete HP engine.

    Take a pic of it.
    Jim

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