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  1. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glastron1987 View Post
    Well, I have an old piston and pin. Not sure what mods I'd have to make though. Have to think about that.
    You would have to cut the scrap piston up, use one side of the wrist pin boss. With a die grinder you shape the side that takes the clip into a funnel, the other end can be shaped to fit the new piston. You also would have to take a little material off the scrap wrist pin, that you use to push the circlip through your homemade tool into the new piston. If you take enough diameter off the pin (slides in and out the new piston easily), it now works to hold your bearings and shims while you install the new pin.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnPad View Post
    You would have to cut the scrap piston up, use one side of the wrist pin boss. With a die grinder you shape the side that takes the clip into a funnel, the other end can be shaped to fit the new piston. You also would have to take a little material off the scrap wrist pin, that you use to push the circlip through your homemade tool into the new piston. If you take enough diameter off the pin (slides in and out the new piston easily), it now works to hold your bearings and shims while you install the new pin.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wow, you just scared me into ordering that pricey tool!

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  5. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glastron1987 View Post
    Wow, you just scared me into ordering that pricey tool!
    LOL, I was as thinking the same thing.

    -Peter
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

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  7. #139
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    Well, I have this nice tool now but can't quite figure out how to use it. I think I have to somehow get the retainer compressed and inside the tubular part of the tool, then push it in with the other part. Does that sound right?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #140
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    Your on right track. Seperate the tool into two pieces. The clip goes inside the hollow tube, the piece with the ball on it goes on top of the clip, push the clip towards the end of the tool without pushing it out. Firmly hold the coned end up against the wrist pin slot, and give it a whack, preferably with the piston well supported in a cradle.

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  10. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnPad View Post
    Your on right track. Seperate the tool into two pieces. The clip goes inside the hollow tube, the piece with the ball on it goes on top of the clip, push the clip towards the end of the tool without pushing it out. Firmly hold the coned end up against the wrist pin slot, and give it a whack, preferably with the piston well supported in a cradle.
    Got it. There is a minor trick getting it into the hollow tube, but it's pretty easy after doing it once. Just straight in with a screwdriver seemed to work fine. Then it was easy with a small whack on the ball end. Yeah, that tool help a LOT.

  11. #142
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    Honed the cylinder, installed a new piston and rings. The old one was very warn and had a stuck ring. Compression in all cylinders is 120-135. Except this one is about 110:Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glastron1987 View Post
    Honed the cylinder, installed a new piston and rings. The old one was very warn and had a stuck ring. Compression in all cylinders is 120-135. Except this one is about 110:Click image for larger version. 

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    It should run fine with 110 compression. Did you measure the bore? Does it still have the knock?

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  14. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by skialot2 View Post
    It should run fine with 110 compression. Did you measure the bore? Does it still have the knock?
    I did not have a good way to measure the bore.

    After I get it together and run it, I'll know about the knock, but by hand and with the starter, it seems really smooth. Also, the piston does not rock like it did before.

    I'm excited that it may be OK, but won't know until I try.

  15. #145
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    Putting my XRI back together and forgot how this clump of ground wires is supposed to be secured. Can anyone verify if I got it right?

    A wire comes from the bottom of the starter (side photo) to the starboard screw of the water sensor module (front photo). Then a wire goes from there to the bottom starboard ECU screw, and that connects to a wire that comes from the back of the water sensor module.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  16. #146
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    Right or wrong, this is how mine is setup. Looks like I grounded from the ecu to the face of the injector plate, in order to take the rubber av mounts out of the equation. I also deleted the water alarm module. If memory serves, it no longer works with a oil injection delete.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  18. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnPad View Post
    Right or wrong, this is how mine is setup. Looks like I grounded from the ecu to the face of the injector plate, in order to take the rubber av mounts out of the equation. I also deleted the water alarm module. If memory serves, it no longer works with a oil injection delete.
    So thanks. Since, at least for now, I do still have the oil injection and the water sensor module, it looks like securing the wire from the bottom of the starter to my starboard water sensor module is equivalent to the way you have it attached to the top as it ends up in the same plate.

    I was thinking that the wire coming from behind was from the water sensor module, but since you still have one, I'll have to double check what that is ... and maybe I should bring that down to the water alarm module screw too. Looks like it may have been like that based on the bend in the wire. Thanks.
    Last edited by Glastron1987; 02-07-2024 at 07:23 AM.

  19. #148
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    So, I got the engine back together and ran it on the muffs. This time it actually peed at least some. The knocking noise is not totally eliminated but is much better. I figure the next step is to rig on my boat and do a real trial run.

    Question ...if I find out it's not good enough, I'll probably be looking for a new power head with all good cylinders and pistons and just replace that to work with this XRI system. Would I need another 2.4 power head, or could a 2.0 or 2.5 power head work as well?

  20. #149
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    For the most part they are interchangeable. I think that the reed plate might have a little different bolt pattern that could be modified with the elongation of 2 holes to fit a newer block. The exhaust cover/divider, and coil mounts likely need to be updated. The voltage regulator/rectifier also needs a update to fit the new exhaust cover/divider. The cowl might work, if it's not too narrow. I put a 2.5 liter gasket on a 88/2.4 adapter plate so I think your good there, if it was a older 2.0, or 2.4, you would need the adapter plates.
    Not 100% positive on all this, but it's what I've noticed in my hoard, and read over the years.

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