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05-25-2023, 01:26 PM #1Junior Member
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Mercury outboard 200 hp 2 stroke marine advance module
I am looking for a used 93772A1 2 stroke marine advance module.The question is that I have been told
that I do not need that on the motor. I am replacing because the red wire is melted and bare wire showing through and the only one available is NOS and close to $400.00 Any ideas??
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05-25-2023, 01:44 PM #2Team Member
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Year, and model? If it’s a 2.4 (1979’ish-1990), you do not need, nor should you have, any modules on it. Repeating the guidance of the legends on here, you should remove all modules and oil injection, proper link’n’sync, and pre-mix.
I did this to my 2.0/150 which is the same family, and happy as a lark.
-Peter"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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05-25-2023, 02:00 PM #3Junior Member
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83 Mercury 200 mounted to a Hydrostream viper totally re-cored and been working on for a couple years.Hoping to get a shakedown ride on the lake this year
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05-25-2023, 03:52 PM #4Team Member
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Badass combo. I just have a 140 on my Viper. And the same 200 as yours on a bigger boat.
Anyway, I think maybe your motor doesn’t have the oiler, so you run pre-mix? If so, then you don’t have the oil warning module to remove. That means that what you are talking about replacing is the idle stabilizer module, which (I think) is supposed to add a little timing if it senses the rpm dropping too low to where it might stall. If you didn’t have that module but otherwise tune your motor right, you won’t have an issue with stalling… Maybe on the rarest occasion if you slam shut from full throttle or something like that that you wouldn’t do very often anyway.
-Peter"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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05-28-2023, 10:49 AM #5
Ditch the black boxes. Keep it simple as possible and no simpler. Double check as I think you have to add a bias wire between the switchboxes once you yank the black box. Plenty of commentary on the forum if you search.
1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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05-28-2023, 11:21 AM #6Team Member
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"padded wonder"
__________
the wet:
Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha
the dry:
2003 bmw ///M5
1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
and a handful of clunkers
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06-13-2023, 12:22 PM #7Junior Member
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It would be appreciated if anyone has info on the bias wire and or tsb. I did find a idle stabilizer module on e bay but the price is through the roof! Any help would be appreciated!
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06-13-2023, 01:03 PM #8
Don't worry about replacing module, you don't want it anyways. Set your timing 23° at cranking speed. Make sure your sb's have a small white/blk jumper wire connecting the bias circuit to each other.
It is a advance module, they used them on a few 2.5/200, albeit in a different conflageration. Seriously, you don't want it on there.Last edited by OnPad; 06-14-2023 at 05:05 PM.
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06-13-2023, 05:27 PM #95000 RPM
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i thought 23 degrees was full rated rpm, not cranking speed.
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06-13-2023, 05:36 PM #10
Wot, at cranking speed, is how I set mine. Engine not running, plugs out, fuel disconnected. Try not to set yourself on fire!!
Haven't found someone brave enough to get back there with a timing light at full tilt.Last edited by OnPad; 06-13-2023 at 05:45 PM.
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