Need Wheel & Axle Replacement Advice

[MattGreen]

Hi,

I need some advice from trailer guru's. My Checkmate Starflite 21 sits on the original C-Hawk single-axle trailer, which is in excellent original condition. I am however doing a number of upgrades simply due to age, and I'd like to upgrade from the original 14" rims to 15's. This is partly just for looks (it looks straight out of 1987 ), but I'd also like to add hydraulic surge disc brakes and I'm 99% sure the 14" wheels won't clear the caliper. I have these brakes on my Scarab trailer with 15's for example (ugly steel wheels though). I'm having a heck of a time finding decent-looking 15" 5-bolt aluminum trailer wheels at any kind of reasonable price. Any advice ?

Second (related) question: It current has a 3500 pound drop axle, in good shape, but does have some wear on the axle seal surfaces. I want to move the axle rearwards several inches to help with tongue weight. When I restored the boat, a fair bit of weight came out of the bow (wet foam and plywood gone), and I now have a considerably heavier stern than original (hydraulic jack plate and ETEC 250HO, as compared to a manual jack and Merc 2.4-BP on it originally). I was thinking about upgrading the axle during this process. Should I go to a 6-bolt axle/hub system to give me more wheel options ?

Because I tow over the Rocky mountains multiple times per year, I'm more concerned about safety and reliability on all this than cost.

Thanks,
Matt

[David - WI]

Not really what you were asking but I have seen 14" to 15" wheel brake kits... https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra.../18788-87.html

[CharlieN]

Does your existing axle have the flanges for brakes? If so things are easy.
If not you either have a welding shop add flanges or you have an axle made to your needs. Same goes with the coupler.
Can the hull be moved forward a few inches or the axle moved back? Or is everything welded in place.
I can not truly imagine 14's under a 21' hull. I just run car rims as
long as their weight rating is enough. I like a wider rim to support the
sidewalls, this reduces the chance of the trailer swaying. I really
like mine to just sit back there especially on windy roads.

[Tomanytoys]

Hey Matt.
I’ll send you some options & details.
��

[MattGreen]

Thanks Charlie and Greg.

Regarding Charlie's questions:
Yes, the current axle does have brake flanges. I can move the axle back relatively easily. That will involve cutting off the current brackets and welding on new ones, I will very likely do that as part of the upgrades. I'd use a bracket/rail that once welded on allows axle adjustment by just moving bolts. There's no room to move the boat forward. I totally agree with you on the idea of 14's on a single-axle trailer for a 21 foot boat. I had 15's on a trailer for a much lighter 16' tunnel and it towed perfect.

More info to follow.

Thanks,
Matt

[CharlieN]

I have worked on a trailer that used a formed steel angle that the axle mounts were built onto. This was Ubolted to the rails. Rather nice to trim the desired balance point.