Comp Vector thread

[JoshP1]

The layer in question can be cut/scored with a small hooked pick with no problem. I'm pretty sure I could cut it with a utility knife too.

[LakeFever]

My vking had a pink foam core strip on the under side of the deck. Looks similar. Of course maybe someone else has redone it before and used some foam

[JoshP1]

Just a wild thought. From what I hear, the Vector and Viking/Vking bottoms are the same except for the pad an lift strikes. Has anyone tried cutting out the inner lift strikes on a Vector with a flat pad? Am I out of my mind or does this make since? Thought process behind it is this. The Vectors run like somebody threw a bobcat in a sack then tied it to the tail of a horse. The Viking/Vkings run like riding a couch. Can I, essentially, have a 17' Viking/Vking by doing this? I already plan on flattening the pad on my Vector. Maybe I'm just losing my mind after years of tactical self induced abuse.

[LakeFever]

Its totally doable although a heaping ton of work to do nicely. Vectors are better drag hulls and vkings are easier to drive speed hulls, generally speaking. Set up is everything. Some awfully fast vectors out there. Owners who love them. That said its your boat and your build do what you feel is best.

[Deznuts3570]

If I remember right the hull was reshaped on the vking when they built it. Its different even though it looks similiar

[JoshP1]

D,

Earlier in this thread I spoke about a bubble in the deck to resemble the newer Venom in place of the windshield. From what I can see in your avatar and signature pics, I probably found some pics of your build on Google. I remember seeing the boat in a YouTube video for the Hydrostream Hellions and fell in love with the deck bubble instead of a windshield. I have a pretty long way to go before I start modifying the deck of my boat, just thought I'd through it out there.

[Deznuts3570]

That's it for sure. There's a thread on here that showed some pics of it.

[XstreamVking]

On the strip of odd material, in the 80's they were experimenting with a spray able type of soft durometer core. I used it in one of my early 80's flats boats bullds and it was not very impressive. This may be some of that material. The idea was that as the fiberglass flexed from impacts it would act as a shock absorber since it was not hard.

[JoshP1]

D, here's the pics I got off Google.

[Deznuts3570]

That's it buddy. A bunch of good people helped along the way and I'll be forever grateful for it. It's been a great learning curve and I can honestly say, I met a dude that became a great friend off this site. Still today, it all happened here! Tons of great knowledge and tons of great people. Once your done man, it becomes a blast!

[JoshP1]

X, if that's it, it looks like my whole bottom running surfaces have it. It sands really easy so I'm thinking of leaving it and laying up over it. I'll still sand everything like I should to get a mechanical and chemical bond with the glass.

[XstreamVking]

I would do an adhesion test. Clean and prep, then lay up a small square on the surface. Let it cure and try to remove it. The material may be good, or may cause de-lamination and you will have to remove it.

[LakeFever]

Cant beat starting fresh. Remove the guesses and unknowns. Thats how i see it

[JoshP1]

Lake and X, after more thought, I've decided to remove all of it. I can't see doing all this work and leaving something I'm not set on in the boat. It's just not worth it to me.