2.0/2.4 bleed/Check valves, one snapped off

[pcrussell50]

Two questions:

1) I think I read somewhere here that all the ones not in the block are check
valves and the ones in the block are just two way fittings? Or do I have that backwards? Or are they mixed where some on block and some not?

2) the one on the bottom of the block facing forward 1990 2.4/200 got snapped off clean. I need to extract the stub and put in a new one but I’ve never done it and don’t know where to get one.

Just finished skimming through the manual for the 1990 2.4/200 and it doesn’t show the fitting on the bottom of the block for the carb version, but does show for one of the EFI versions. This 1990 2.4/200 block is being used with 1983 2.4/200 “dressing”. So it’s possible that the previous owner replaced his 1983 2.4 block with an EFI block 1990 2.4/200?

Anyway the manual is pretty thin on details about how to handle these bleed fittings.

-Peter

[rgsauger]

I have seen people post about having some still available. I can take a picture of my 1990 V200 carb motor and post my plumbing if you need it

[pcrussell50]

3369524[/URL]]I have seen people post about having some still available. I can take a picture of my 1990 V200 carb motor and post my plumbing if you need it

Yes, please.

Also, I re checked my 1990 manual. The fuelie XRI block has two bleed/check fittings that the carb block doesn’t have: one on the bottom front of the block and one on top. They are connected to each other. The carb blocks don’t have those two. My carb motor appears to have been built out of an XRI fuelie block. And it’s the bottom fitting that I broke off. And I don’t know if it’s a check or an open. And I don’t know any hot tips on how to dig it out, just that it’s a press fit. Or what sealer to use if I find a used one to press back in.

-Peter

[rgsauger]

Is your motor put together or is it torn apart right now? I can get those pictures and post them up tomorrow, Tuesday.

[pcrussell50]

3369529[/URL]]Is your motor put together or is it torn apart right now? I can get those pictures and post them up tomorrow, Tuesday.

Motor is together right now, but I will be taking off the intake to put on CCMS reeds and check out the carbs for peace of mind, even though I know it runs
as is.

[tlwjkw]

"one on the bottom front of the block and one on top. They are connected to each other. The carb blocks don’t have those two"

check again.. they all have one bottom to top... only way ta oil top bearing.. one on top is open (will flow either way) one on bottom is one way (flows out or up only, very important).... they all have it that way... ya need ta know that when ya replace either bleed valve.. all horizontal front motors have it that way...

3 to 4
7 to 10

[rock]

I think I may have some in the shop. I will check later. Do not run motor till fixed.

Rock

[FUJIMO]

...note to self: never scrap a junk block without first stripping it of all bleeder fittings...

[pcrussell50]

"one on the bottom front of the block and one on top. They are connected to each other. The carb blocks don’t have those two"

check again.. they all have one bottom to top... only way ta oil top bearing.. one on top is open (will flow either way) one on bottom is one way (flows out or up only, very important).... they all have it that way... ya need ta know that when ya replace either bleed valve.. all horizontal front motors have it that way...

3 to 4
7 to 10

I think I may have some in the shop. I will check later. Do not run motor till fixed.

Rock

Damn! You guys are worth your weight in gold. The !@#$%^&* Mercury manual is highly misleading on this.

It's clearly there in the fuelie diagram:


But not on the port side diagram of the carb motor. (This is what confused me):


But here it is on the carb motor on the starboard side. (This is the part I missed):


Big thanks to all involved who already knew how important this was.

===

Questions:
-Any tips on digging out the broken fitting on the bottom?
-Should I put any certain sealer on the replacement fitting (if I can find one), before I press it in?

-Peter

[rock]

OK Peter I finally found the box of fittings. Is yours threaded or pressed. All I could find, for now, with check valves are threaded. If yours is threaded pm your address and I will get one mailed out.

Rock

[pcrussell50]

OK Peter I finally found the box of fittings. Is yours threaded or pressed. All I could find, for now, with check valves are threaded. If yours is threaded pm your address and I will get one mailed out.

Rock

Very kind of you. I will check. But I think they are pressed. /-:

-Peter

[25two.stroke]

Is this what you are looking for? If Rock doesn't have them I'm sure I do.

[pcrussell50]

Is this what you are looking for? If Rock doesn't have them I'm sure I do.

Most likely. It’s a 1990 carb 2.4/200. This is what I get off Crowley: https://www.crowleymarine.com/mercur...82-check-valve Looks pretty much the same. Thanks a ton. PM me for how much.

Also, since you’re a mechanic, any tips on digging out the old one? It snapped off flush. And any sealer needed or just the red stuff that come on it?

-Peter

[25two.stroke]

Yeah thats the same check valve at crowley. They are pretty much one time use; they compress when you put them in. So they never fit right in my opinion when you use used ones. If you DO use used ones, I use the green Loctite bearing and seal retainer: they stay in. When you have new ones the red stuff is sufficient sealant and they compress tight when they go in, so just send them in straight out of the package. I drive them with a super small 1/4" drive deep socket, something like 3 or 4 mm that just fits over the barb.

Pulling the broke off one out should not be hard. Screw a small wood screw into the core of it and then gently wobble and pull it out with vise-grips, pliers or dikes. The biggest thing you have to be aware of is not to crack the aluminum where its pressed into. Depending on where it is in the engine there can be a very small wall of aluminum adjacent to it (like on the intake manifold). Make sure the new check valve checks the same way as the old one was supposed to, obviously.

If all else fails and the press-in area gets hogged out to where it wont hold a new fitting tight then I have drilled and tapped them to take the later thread-in check valves. But hopefully you won't have to do that.

[pcrussell50]

Solid gold, mate. Love this place.

-Peter