mercury v200 2.4 1988 rectifier wiring

[hobbymad]

Hi yes rebuild and restore of complete boat and motor (I’m a mechanic) I’m very fussy and want everything immaculate as for motor I thought it was late 80s but labels worn off we’ve had boat from new in 1997 20 xlt flightcraft and put late 80s black max but this is a massive project for me but I will have a fully restored ski boat and old 200 merc ,this makes me happy ��

[pcrussell50]

Hi yes rebuild and restore of complete boat and motor (I’m a mechanic) I’m very fussy and want everything immaculate as for motor I thought it was late 80s but labels worn off we’ve had boat from new in 1997 20 xlt flightcraft and put late 80s black max but this is a massive project for me but I will have a fully restored ski boat and old 200 merc ,this makes me happy ��

Well, good on you. That’s superb.

I was just back in Melbourne for my old school reunion. Saw a nice looking boat with a Merc on the back in my old neighbour’s driveway. No idea who lives there now, but Made me feel happy to see it anyway.

-Peter

[RoyE]

@hobbymad I can see your pictures. My motor did not originally have the separate rectifier & regulator. I do not know why you have 2 red wires coming from the engine loom. You should be able to figure it out by tracing the wires and understanding which wire goes where, and why:

- From the battery you need a positive lead to the + terminal on the starter solenoid (which is used as a central + terminal on your engine).
- The red wire(s) from the rectifier or the combined rectifier/regulator need to be connected to the battery in order to charge it, which is why they are usually also connected to the + terminal on the starter solenoid
- The red wire that goes into the engine loom (which connects to the control box loom) feeds the ignition switch and the trim button in the control box, it needs a constant +, which is why it is usually connected to the + terminal on the starter solenoid.

Even though the wiring can be routed differently between years, it comes down to the description above.

Two examples below with separate rectifier (note that the regulator is not included here).



One example with two rectifiers/regulators

[hobbymad]

Roye thanks mate and im happy to go chasing wireing to find out whats what but just thought there may have been someone with the same set up as mine thats done the rec conversion to save me the trial and errors that may occur,but no probs il sort it out and you
have been a great help thank you.

[RoyE]

You're welcome and good luck, let us know how it works out!

[tlwjkw]

you should have a small red from tha harness or from batt term on tha soleniod already that went to tha rectifier.. it can make a joint with it or it can go straight to tha solenoid batt. term (red)... some fuse it @ 20 amps.... some don't......

its actually tha ign. (key) switch hot...

[rgsauger]

@rsgauger the wiring you show is correct apart from the pink wire, I think the pink wire is faded red (also if you check the link that you provided, pink is the color for the fuel sender to fuel gauge).

The "pink" wire in your images connects to the terminal block, where it is isolated from anything else. It should be connected to the + terminal of the starter solenoid.

From the description of hobbymad it sounds like he has a 16A stator, which can be connected to the rectifier/regulator like this:

stator yellow to rectifier/regulator yellow
stator yellow to rectifier/regulator yellow
rectifier/regulator red to + terminal on starter solenoid
rectifier/regulator red to + terminal on starter solenoid
rectifier/regulator black to ground on the block
rectifier/regulator grey to grey wire from wiring harness (for rpm gauge)

Here is how I mounted mine

So I just went out there and checked and it is certainly a pink wire. Goes into the main wiring harness and then comes back out to that terminal. Not sure what it does but it’s pink.

[tlwjkw]

you have really started something now.. looked at a coupla motors both 16 and 40's plus every wirin' dia.. can get my hands on and cannot find a "pink" in any of tha ign/chargin' circuits

if its red, no mater tha size, it either starts or stops atta 12v positive batt. terminal......may or may not be fused.

[RoyE]

Im with him ^^^^

[rgsauger]

Well, it started as a 40 amp water cooled 1990 setup. I’ll take another look but last night, it was pink! Lol

[tlwjkw]

only one pink..... it should not be anywhere on tha power head..

[rgsauger]

I hear what you’re saying but I’m looking at what I’m seeing…I’ll look harder again tomorrow