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09-21-2022, 10:31 AM #1
wiring layout and finished rigging
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not my boat .. trying to learn wiring layout when I do mine in the future ..
what do you guys think about this wiring and the finished rigging ?
Looks good to me .. just curious what you would do different?
https://www.riverdavesplace.com/foru...easure.250964/
Last edited by noli; 09-21-2022 at 12:35 PM.
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09-21-2022, 12:14 PM #2
Nice, neat and organized. Generally speaking, I like it. The only two issues I might have are:
1) The self-adhesive zip-tie holders that you appear to have used in the lower run of wiring won't last very long. (Ask me how I know that.) They only stick to clean, smooth / flat surfaces - which raw fiberglass is not. I'd recommend ditching them.
2) I'm not sure how your fuse block is mounted to the hull side, but my bigger issue is that it will be hidden by the coaming panel once you install it. That will make electrical trouble shooting / replacing fuses a much more difficult task than it should be.1992 Progression 22
Mercury Racing 250R
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noli liked this post
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09-21-2022, 12:33 PM #35000 RPM
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Nice - allot of thought to layout is a given . As above -
referring to the 1 inch zip / blocks - they do need set in a Uerathane or such to stay put . I'm sure your aware allready - I generally peel the 2 way tape off and set them in windshield Urethane - just a blob and the windshield guys usually have a tube that's close to empty or a partial .
I'm sure silicone would work but it's not allowed in the shop due to painting .
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09-21-2022, 01:28 PM #4Supporting Member
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Weld mounts are your friend when rigging. Screws are your enemy unless you can thru bolt...Its nice being able to mount to the underside of deck or hull sides.
www.weldmountsystem.com
Joe
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09-21-2022, 08:08 PM #5The Historic Photo Master
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...these work nice as well. come in black in all different sizes...
Last edited by FUJIMO; 09-21-2022 at 08:10 PM.
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09-21-2022, 08:17 PM #6The Historic Photo Master
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...the larger one...
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09-21-2022, 08:21 PM #7The Historic Photo Master
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...panduit makes all kinds of what you need...
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noli liked this post
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09-22-2022, 07:38 AM #8
Looks really nice, Just my opinion but push-on blade wire connectors suck and dont belong in boats, especially race boats ... I know guys want cool looking labeled rocker switches that mostly come with blade terminals but if want something to work when you flip the switch nothing beats screw type terminals. The micro switch 1tl series sealed switches last forever.. Toggle swiches with nasa style dividers looks really cool too. Dave
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09-22-2022, 08:12 AM #96000 RPM
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I'd like to add a comment about doing anything with double backed mounting tape. If the hull sits in the sun, chances are that gunnel compartment will get very hot and the tape will get gooey and your wire run will collapse. I put some protective dog panels on a pair of car door interiors using velcro and double backed mounting tape. First hot day with 125 degree interior heat and they slid off the doors leaving a gooey mess. Does anybody know if 3M makes a mounting tape for high heat applications? I like the idea of using windshield Urethane for my problem but have no idea what the stuff would do to car door interior molded plastic?
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09-22-2022, 08:40 AM #10
Agree with above... I use click-bond standoffs all the time, kinda pricy but hit ebay and you can get them fairly reasonble, use the wire loom cradles like shown above screwed on the end... they are taped 10-32 so you can use clamps or what ever you want. The green epoxy they sell is amazing, kinda like the stuff they glue jet ski hulls together with but i have glued them on with 5200 and they never came off. the plastic part you will see in the pics are just to hold them on while the adhesive drys.
Last edited by H2OPERF; 09-22-2022 at 08:44 AM.
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09-22-2022, 08:41 AM #11
The one inch square block guys with double sided stickie tape will usually stay where you put them long enough to lay the job out until your satisfied with the placement. Then you can open the tube of 4200 one time to seal all the #8 x 3/8ths stainless screws at once .
Don't have core to drill into or hate to use screws, razer blade the sticky off the back and 4200 the block to the hull ..
All them adel clamps and screw switch's just look to military to me ..
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09-22-2022, 08:43 AM #125000 RPM
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As stayed above - great advice - I would have to see or a very good explanation of the application - but in a pinch windshield urethane is very usefull stuff and keeps for a long while . We are body guys - Probably best to stop by a windshield place and just ask for a close to finished tube for your small job . Instead if buying whole tube - yes its cheesy a bit but they are always on a tube of it .
Tape it down for a day and its fixed instead of gooping it with a residential epoxy/ - makeshift glue . Be aware this holds your windshield in - that's it .
3m tape is good stuff and there are differant versions of it - and the area needs perfect base to bond - no silicones like armerall- wax - sealers ECTLast edited by kellytheaker; 09-22-2022 at 08:46 AM.
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09-22-2022, 05:30 PM #132006 Spectre 24' SCS
2020 Mercury 300 ProXS
2001 Allison XB2003
2006 Mercury 250XS
1988 22' Velocity (sold)
1995 Allison Grand Sport (sold)
1998 Mercury Stock 2.5-260 SS
1990 Velocity 30' - 502's (sold)
Go Daddy Go! Racing
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09-22-2022, 05:36 PM #14Screaming And Flying!
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I have always used thin wall pvc for all my long front to back wire runs. Epoxy glue or glass em on. If you need a drop out just leave a gap between two pipes.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
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09-22-2022, 08:22 PM #15The Historic Photo Master
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...holesaw whatever size hole you need in the bottom or side of the rigging tube...
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