slipped fly wheel

[redsnapper386]

guys 1993 2.5 200 carbs im still haveing a timeing issue question is can these fly wheels slip on the hub with age mine is the male female type which looks solid as can be when i get my tdc right the fly wheel degree nos are way off the motor misses and back fires through prop i never have timed each cylinder or would it help thanks for input

[rjdubiel]

The timing magnet on the flywheel hub could move i think. Sometimes some one could have taken the hub off and put it back on in a wrong spot and your marks will be off on the flywheel and the cover. Index number one TDC and then mark the 23 degrees and time it there. We have seen that before.

[PanRonnie]

The timing magnets are somekind of rubberized material which is magnitized after install
This can degrade over time
This can only be fixed by by a new flywheel or with older steel plate flywheels remove the center hub from a donor
A new one should be around 600$
Or go on ebay

[redsnapper386]

thanks a bunch guys i was hopeing to avoid new i will redo timeing tdc and 23 deg also i talked to a shop that will loan me a good one

[WaterZebra]

thanks a bunch guys i was hopeing to avoid new i will redo timing tdc and 23 deg also i talked to a shop that will loan me a good one

When you pull the flywheel, check condition of 4 bolts that attach stator to engine block and tighten if needed. It's the position of movable lever in the stator that provides timing advance if they are loose, your TDC / 23 degree setting will wander a bit.

[25two.stroke]

If you verify tdc and then stil cant get your timing anywhere near correct do the following:

Take the trigger leads off the switchboxes

dva your trigger while cranking and verify all the legs have approximately 2 v output and all the legs are close to the same voltage output. This will tell you if your trigger magnet on the flywheel is strong (but not necessarily timed correctly).

if it passes that test put the leads back on the switchboxes and disconnect the white/black stripe wire off both switchboxes and put it all back together with nothing on the black/white posts of the switchboxes.

Check timing (cranking with all spark plugs out) with the round joint on the trigger approximately aligned with the split line of the two block halves. This should b between 6atdc and 2btdc (most engines).

if it passes this test then

find tdc on #6 and make a mark on the flywheel. Check the timing on #6 like you did on #1 and it should be within 3 degrees of what #1 was. If this is the case then your switchboxes and trigger are MOST LIKELY good.

If you hook that white/black wire back up and the timing changes dramatically from what it was unhooked then something is wrong with the bias circuit, wither that wire is touching ground or if you have a idle stabilizer that could be jacked.

[rgsauger]

At the risk of sounding simple, did you set your pointer using a dial indicator and top dead center on number one? Pointers can absolutely be off.

[Forkin' Crazy]

At the risk of sounding simple, did you set your pointer using a dial indicator and top dead center on number one? Pointers can absolutely be off.

Or use a piston stop. Simple and cheap.

Speaking of "cheap", according to the factory manual, if you can't find the problem with meters and such, start replacing parts.

My stator took a crap and I replaced everything but the trigger. Switch boxes and all. Make sure the bias wire is good.

[redsnapper386]

starting over today will post back thanks

[redsnapper386]

guys sorry late fix is replaced fly wheel it appeared that the inner hub was slipping on old one thanks