If you've only a rectifier and no regulator, what voltmeter behavior to expect?

[Darkcloud]

These charging systems,9 and 16 v use a full wave bridge rectifier to convert ac to dc to charge the battery via 10 1.5 v stator coils.This makes about 15 volts,and a battery that isn't topped off brings that down a little.Ac power is coming to the rectifier via two legs from the stator(yellow wires).The regulator(start of the art) simply shorts one leg of the stator output when battery voltage reaches 14.5,resulting in a 4.5 or 8 amp charge via the unshorted leg,making the rectifier function as a 1/2 wave bridge.This is why the grey tach feed must not be on the same leg as the regulator,or the tach would not get a pulse when the voltage exceeds 14.5,give or take a bit...Usually the system is fine with a lead acid battery and no regulator,possible exceptions would include a very small battery,long runs,or two motors on one battery,Chris

thanks Chris. A lot of information to take in. Considering my engine doesn’t have a regulator, only rectifier and spikes to 17v will this be ok with depth sounder and chart plotter.
I don’t have a small start battery, I have separate house and start batteries connected by auto charge relay. Short cable runs.

pete

[Darkcloud]

Should also add that in addition to regulators and rectifiers, there are also regulator-rectifiers combined in one unit. I do not have one of these but I learned about it here and the locals around here seem to have good opinions of them. Is that more or less correct?

I run with a separate rectifier and regulator and see 13-16V depending. Only electronics is single ten year old LCD sounder that doesn’t even have GPS. I use it for depth, temp, speed/distance (old skool paddle wheel) and… voltage. Basically I use my sounder screen as a “digital dash”. Not for fishing.

-Peter

cool thanks
so can you post where I can find info on how to hook up regulator or where I could buy kit

[rgsauger]

I run the combination rectifier/regulator on my 16 amp 200 merc. I am never over about 14.5 or 14.6. 17 volts is too high for modern electronics. You can find these units on Amazon or eBay for 25 or $30. There are more expensive ones out there but they all seem to function about the same in my experience. Buy two. One for a spare.

[Darkcloud]

I run the combination rectifier/regulator on my 16 amp 200 merc. I am never over about 14.5 or 14.6. 17 volts is too high for modern electronics. You can find these units on Amazon or eBay for 25 or $30. There are more expensive ones out there but they all seem to function about the same in my experience. Buy two. One for a spare.

thanks
could you possibly send link of regulator kit?

pete

[Darkcloud]

I run the combination rectifier/regulator on my 16 amp 200 merc. I am never over about 14.5 or 14.6. 17 volts is too high for modern electronics. You can find these units on Amazon or eBay for 25 or $30. There are more expensive ones out there but they all seem to function about the same in my experience. Buy two. One for a spare.

how do I know what amp rating my motor is. I’m seeing a lot of chatter on other threads about amp size

pete

[rgsauger]

So the fact that you only have a rectifier probably means that you are a nine amp or a 16 amp system. I do not believe that they had 40 amp charging systems in 1983. I might be mistaken though. You can pull the serial number and probably get an idea. Is your fly wheel dark green or is it red?

[rgsauger]

Something like this

https://www.google.com/search?q=merc...obile&ie=UTF-8

[rgsauger]

https://www.amazon.com/Rectifier-Reg.../dp/B091YHP4SF

[Darkcloud]

So the fact that you only have a rectifier probably means that you are a nine amp or a 16 amp system. I do not believe that they had 40 amp charging systems in 1983. I might be mistaken though. You can pull the serial number and probably get an idea. Is your fly wheel dark green or is it red?

Hey rgsauger
had a look at parts list for my engine and it’s a 5454A7 which from looking up is a 9 amp stator.
looking at the after market regulator rectifier it shows a 6 wire unit. Should I buy this or look for a 5 wire unit?
really appall your advice
pete

[rgsauger]

The six wire regulator has two yellows, two reds, one black for the ground, and one gray for your tachometer. That’s the way I would go i believe. If it does not have a black, then it will ground through the housing.

[Darkcloud]

Where would the second red wire go?

[rgsauger]

Check me but just going purely from memory, one of them goes to a common lug on the starter solenoid and I think the other one goes into the wiring harness. Double check me on this though. Should not be that hard to find a schematic.

[Darkcloud]

Thanks again rgsauger.
I’m emailing CDI to see if they can shed light on my situation

pete

[pcrussell50]

Thanks again rgsauger.
I’m emailing CDI to see if they can shed light on my situation

pete

That is a good plan. Let us know what you find out. They sell the regulator/rectifier combination that I think is the one you want.

I only have schematics/manuals for 1983 (rectifier only) and 1990 (water cooled regulator).
BUT
My 1987 2.0 has a separate regulator from the rectifier. I'll take a look when I get back there to see how it is wired. Might be a while.

-Peter

[rgsauger]

It will wire up the same as the water cooled regulator if you can post a schematic from that. The water cooled had two yellows and two reds. And the gray.