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  1. #1
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    Torque Tab Setting

    How should I set my torque tab for high engine height, fully trimmed, and full speed running? I noticed in the last vid I took of my boat running that the engine was canted to a starboard side turn, but was running straight. That HAS to be scrubbing some top speed. Which way should I turn the tab? BTW, I'm running with the propshaft about 2 3/4" below the bottom of the boat. Thanks!

  2. #2
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    I would saw it off flush (keep the anode disc)... then put a "torque tamer" on the skeg (which is actually in the water at speed).

    Let's just go ahead and make America great again!

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  4. #3
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    I agree with the above post. The torque tab is out of the water at 2.75" PTP height. The skeg on many new Mercs is cambered (like my 300R) to do what David suggested. I once sawed off a torque tab, but the reason was that the large surfacing prop I used on that boat would have hit the stock trim tab.

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  6. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by David - WI View Post
    I would saw it off flush (keep the anode disc)... then put a "torque tamer" on the skeg (which is actually in the water at speed).
    Same mod worked great for me on my last 3 rigs. Torque tabs are easy to install and stay in the water. On Mercs you can often find a plain anode plate at the dealers and save the sawing effort.
    Doug

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  8. #5
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    I had Baja 186 with a 2.0L /150 HP Mercury and swapped to a factory/flat anode as noted above. My reason was that the tab limited my prop testing... Went to try a friends chopper and it wouldn't clear it.

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  10. #6
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    I used a 4.5” grinder to cut mine off then ground it smooth. Props would not clear
    1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!

  11. #7
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    Thank you for the responses! If I do away with the torque tab and go with a, say, Bob's torque tamer, what will the torque steer be like with the motor down and trimmed in at cruising, or skiing speeds?

  12. #8
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    What type of steering do you have; single cable, 2 cable or hydraulic?

  13. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4Speed View Post
    What type of steering do you have; single cable, 2 cable or hydraulic?
    It's SeaStar hydraulic, so torque steer really isn't an issue. As I trim the engine up, though I can feel in the helm where it crosses neutral torque.

  14. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by croSSed View Post
    It's SeaStar hydraulic, so torque steer really isn't an issue. As I trim the engine up, though I can feel in the helm where it crosses neutral torque.
    you will have no problem at cruising speeds. might not be able to feel any difference

  15. #11
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    I always test my torque tabs by just using rivets for first few runs- no epoxy and I leave the rivet out of the top hole. I run this to get a feel for the torque at both cruise and top end. If it feels good and the motor is straight at top end relative to the hull I drill out the rivets and use new rivets and epoxy to finish the job. If it has too much correction, I cut some off the top of the tab and re-test. My recent Merc 150 Opti and Merc 150 4S motors ended up with a tab length of 3.25 inches which has only 3 rivets since I cut off the section where the first rivet went. As an aside- I also run a Bob's torque tab on my little 15hp-25hp Merc tiller handle fishing motors on a 14 ft boat. Tab length is a mere 2 inches but it steers like a dream with almost no toque trying to yank the handle of out my hand.
    Doug

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  17. #12
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    Use stainless pop rivets, not aluminum. I ran mine for years without epoxy... used a little black RTV to smooth the front edge and rivet pockets though. (Gob a little RTV on then smooth it with a wet finger.)

    Let's just go ahead and make America great again!

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  19. #13
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    I have a new rivet type torque tab in my basement. You can have it for the price of postage if you want

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